middlefingerraised

Just trying to replace brake pads and the brake callipers would not budge. I thought that if i bleed the fluids out i could get them to release a little. Well after a few min of trying to get the valve open i stripped it. Now i v'e got the callipers off that bleeder nipple still not moving (completely striped now) and callipers not opening up for new pads. I have sprayed PB blaster on the nip and my next thought is to drill the thing.

mr white

You tried a c clamp on the fronts and they wouldn't budge? Could be seized and require new calipers
The rears are screw type IIRC. Putting the hoss on a clamp on the rears will **** them. Need to screw the pistons back in.

middlefingerraised

Thanks, limited tools. C-clamp just not big enough too grip. Is there an alternate method of opening them.? I am only working on font disks and rotors and broken Jeep tagged front hub covers. Should i drill out nipple and replace from O'Ries?

mr white

C-Clamp is really the only way I've ever done it. Go to home depot and get a bigger one for $5.
I'll let someone else comment on the drilling/tapping of the nipple. I wouldn't do it because it would be a pain in the *** and I can go to the junk yard down the street and get another one for less effort. The only time you need to mess with it is when you're bleeding the brakes.

caged

opening the bleeder won't do anything for you. it will only introduce air into the system, then you would have to bleed every wheel.
even if you opened it, you would still need the piston to go back into the caliper. opening the bleeder won't do that.

you need to push the piston back in. the displaced brake fluid will just go back into the master when you push the piston back in.

you need a large c-clamp or a large set of slip joint pliers (channel locks) to squeeze the piston.

or you could leave one brake pad out and put the caliper back on the rotor and use a pry bar or large flat head screw driver and slip it between the rotor and piston and use leverage to squeeze the piston back in there.

if not, you will need to replace the caliper. if you replace one, it's best to replace both.
just be sure to install with bleeder above the brake line. (caliper on proper side).

good luck.

middlefingerraised

k. Well front calipers off and brake fluids out. Trying to crank calipers on bench vice. At this point thinking just replace both front cali's and deal w/ bleeding the brakes. right?

mr white

If you can't loosen that nipple, you can't bleed the brakes. So either fix the nipple somehow or get new calipers.

Turbo X_J

You'll be bleeding the rear as well, good time to see if you should buy wheel cylinders too and save a trip to the store.

mdnov

If your calipers were that frozen and you stripped out the threads for the bleeder I would replace the calipers. If you replace one you really should replace both. Better safe than sorry.

iansmellis

Buy new calipers...they are only around $15 after the core charge

scottystyles

i have always unscrewed the fill cap when i do brakes, always seems to give me that little bit of leeway.

RSWiser

Heat and a small pipe wrench.
RSWiser

Macoozie

If its that rotten, you really need to replace as much as you can.
AND flush all the old fluid out too.

New calipers and wheel cylinders at least.
Just do it, it will save you time effort and heartache.

Bigclubs

"Heat and a small pipe wrench. RSWiser" I agree, propane torch and pipe wrench or vice grips should help with getting the old nipple out. Can purchase replacement nipples at the autoparts store. BUT if your pistons are that hard to push in, then after they are installed on the rotors they will lock up the first time the brakes are applied. I have used both C-clamp and large Channel locks to push the pistons back. Both work fine. Also double check your slider pins, they should move back and forth with no binding (with using only 2 fingers).

middlefingerraised

Hey guys! got the new calipers on with new pads. How much play should there be in the pads?