Finally found an axle that has the right gearing for my application, but it is from a '91. Would I have any problems bolting it up to my '97? I don't really know what the difference are.

If there was an issue how hard would it be to make it work?

 

It will bolt up fine. Some of the 91s have vacumm disconnect though which might not be what you want.

 

There's no "Might" about it. If it's vacuum disco then walk away lol. Add far add fitment and bolt size and placement of bracketry etc.... They're all the same to my knowledge.

 

Is there a specific reason the vacuum disconnect is so undesirable? Would it just plain not work?

The main thing I'm after is the gearing in the axle.

 

You can get rid of the vac pretty easily. I think it just involves getting a one piece shaft on the passenger side and different seals. There are quite a few write-ups out there. I've never had one but I know people don't like them. What gearing are you looking for.

 

It seems odd, but right now I'm just looking for 3.73 so I can get it back on the road. I'm already in the process of saving up for something better down the road.

 

Here's the steps to remove:

"For the axle disconnect, get an axle shaft and replace the inner seal on the diff. IIRC the disconnect axles use a couple of seals, where you will be using just one.
get the inner axle seals for any model that does not have the disconnect (tj, some xj's, zj's etc) and do the deed.
Here is a quick rundown of your "to do" list:
Remove the front diff cover and drain the fluid.
With the rig on the ground, loosen the axle shaft nut on passenger side (1 3/16" IIRC)
Jack up the front end.
Remove wheels, calipers, rotors.
Remove axle nut and unit bearing on passenger side, just remove the unit bearing and axle shaft as one unit on driver side.
Pull the axle from the passenger side.
Remove all the vacuum disconnect junk and the sleeve.
Remove the inner shaft on the passenger side.
Remove the seal(s) by the vacuum disconnect.
Inside the diff, mark the bearing caps for left and right, or 1 and 2 etc. I normally just hit one cap and the part it bolts to with a center punch so the mark cannot rub off.
Remove the 4 bolts that hold the differential caps on, keeping all parts together as they were removed.
Slide the diff and ring gear out carefully, making sure to keep the shims organized. The shims need to go back where they were to keep the gear pattern correct.
Look into the axle tubes and knock out the seals.
Get the new seals and coat them lightly with oil.
I use a couple of long extensions through the opposite axle tube with a suitable socket attached to drive the new seals in place. Basically, slide the extensions through the drivers side tube from the outside then put the socket on them when they appear in the diff housing. Hold the new seal in place on the passenger side tube, and then drive it in with the socket. Repeat for opposite side.
Now you have new seals, install the differential/ring gear and shims all in the same way they came out. Torque the cap bolts to spec.
before you put the diff cover back on, slide the axles into the seals making sure they do not rip the new seals. A little oil on the ends of the axles help.
Refasten the drivers side unit bearing to spec. This will secure that side.
Slide the passenger side unit bearing over the axle shaft and tighten the bolts to spec.
Start the nut on the passenger side axle.
Reinstall all rotors and calipers. A little anti seize on the bolts will make your life easier in the future.
Install the wheels.
Lower the rig down and tighten the axle nut to spec as well as the lug nuts.
Apply RTV to diff cover and reinstall diff cover and fill to the fill hole.
Make you blanking plate where the vacuum disconnect was and install.
I normally trace the vacuum lines back to the t/case and blank them off there so water cannot get into the t/case.
Go test drive, then enjoy not having the vacuum disconnect junk anymore!
Sorry for the long winded reply, just wanted to cover the whole job as much as I can remember it."

Stolen from "martin"

 

Short of going to a solid axle you can do this> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/fr...ss-91-a-38629/

I didn't fully read Ian's post, but I can tell you, changing the outer axle seal in that Disco is no fun at all. That said, just locking it with the above info should work fine. Assuming the rest is right.

 

Nobody talks about it. I Keep wondering, why couldn't a guy have his spiders (professionally) welded, go full lock, then treat the Disco as the "unlock"? I stay out of 4WD and out of the mud given a choice, but if I was aiming to get nearly stuck...I don't get why nobody does that.