Doing a replacement on my 99's head gasket (0630 casting). Coolant loss through exhaust. No contamination of the oil system.
Obviously replacing all the gaskets (valve cover, t-stat, head, exhaust/intake, etc), cleaning the push rods, bridges and rockers as well as degreasing the head once it's off the motor. During this mess, I found out the engine ground strap was not even bolted to the stud, it was only semi-captive by the fuel injector harness retainer's plastic leg.
Going to have the head mag-particled at work tomorrow to make sure there's no cracks and then likely resurface the mating face on one of our surface grinders before reinstalling. Using a AM-814776326 gasket kit for the rebuild.
Old fart with a wrench
It's not a good idea to surface grind the head surface because it needs to be rough enough for the gasket to bite into it. A smooth mill cut is better.
Quote:
Somewhat false logic there. The idea of the gasket is to allow for differential expansion and contraction. The only real requisite is that is has an RA between 30-60 and a recommended between 50-60 for best performance. Since I'm using a Multi-Layered Graphite Head Gasket, a rough finish is detrimental to the process and greatly reduces the life expectancy of the unit overall. I could mill it on an old textron bridgeport, but it would be a better finish using a bryant surfacer or the P&W Surf grinder. The main sealing factor on this whole thing is the proper torque and torque pattern more than a finish.Originally Posted by dave1123
It's not a good idea to surface grind the head surface because it needs to be rough enough for the gasket to bite into it. A smooth mill cut is better.