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How difficult to change 2.5L's head gasket?

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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 03:21 PM
  #1  
2WDUnderachiever's Avatar
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From: Atlanta
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default How difficult to change 2.5L's head gasket?

I'm considering buying a pretty clean '94 with the 2.5L for my little brother... Literally not a single dent on it (though one of the door's been replaced), but it has a blown head gasket... At least, the head gasket blew and the oil pressure is low, so I assume that they're related, and the bearings/oil pump and head gasket didn't magically go bad at the same time.

Anyway, how difficult is it to replace the head gasket on the 2.5L?
How much would it cost (on average) to have the head shaved?
I've got a Haynes/Chilton manual, and plenty of time...
I've done tune ups and oil changes and replaced half of the fuel system, as well as half of the A/C system, and done some wiring too... So I think I should be able to handle this. If not, I'm sure I can get my dad to help me out.

I'm just worried that it may not be worth it to buy it (even though it's only $600) if it's a huge pain in the *** to replace the head gasket.
Anyone had experience with 2.5L head gasket replacement?
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 09:03 AM
  #2  
jedijeb's Avatar
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From: Dawson Springs, KY
Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
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I have an 85XJ with 2.5L. I haven't changed the head gasket but have changed the valve cover gasket. Once you have the valve cover off it is easy to get to the head bolts. The most difficult part would probably be removing the intake and exhaust manifold bolts. You may have enough movement in the exhaust system to get the head off without removing the exhaust manifold, if so that would make it an easier job and not require new gaskets for the manifolds.

Just be sure you have a torque wrench to properly torque the head bolts, the torque sequence should be listed in your manuals.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 09:33 AM
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toyotech90's Avatar
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From: Kansas City
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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The most difficult part is the intake/exhaust manifold bolts ( a lot of going under and on top of the vehicle). But other then that they are pretty simple. Just make sure you take a straight edge to the cylinder head to check for warpage. Ive had more 4.0l's warp the head just because of how long they are, but the 2.5 not so much.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 09:44 AM
  #4  
prcherokee's Avatar
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From: FL.
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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As difficult as your mechanical abilities.
If you are like the bimmer 3 or 4 days.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 03:29 PM
  #5  
2WDUnderachiever's Avatar
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From: Atlanta
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Someone else bought the Jeep before I could... Ohh well.
Guess I should've went to the bank while it was still open.

Thanks for the help though, guys.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 04:07 PM
  #6  
MonacaYankee's Avatar
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From: Georgia
Year: 99 94
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: I6
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I saw your post that had a Atlanta Craigslist ad. It was that two door faded blue one with the front guard and back light guards right? I talked myself out of buying it days ago .
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 02:36 AM
  #7  
2WDUnderachiever's Avatar
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From: Atlanta
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by MonacaYankee
I saw your post that had a Atlanta Craigslist ad. It was that two door faded blue one with the front guard and back light guards right? I talked myself out of buying it days ago .
Not bumping a death thread, but yep, that was the one. Was going to buy it for my little brother.
Someone beat me to it by like 3 hours... I was getting ready to go see it.
Looked pretty clean, other than one door being a different color.
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