exitandleave

Bought the Jeep today from a dealer in town. Only problem with it then was that it wouldn't drive until it was warmed up without stalling. Drove it on Friday, also and no problem like this.

The jeep starts and runs fine but when you turn the ignition off, engine will continue running but kills all power otherwise.

Haven't touched anything on it yet- going to have a third party mechanic look at it and consider taking it back and talking to the dealer I bought it from.

Solenoid or ignition switch are the only things I could think of. If I found the wire(s) that are keeping the engine running- would it be feasible to put in a switch instead of replacing any hardware? Right now to kill it I turn the key off then switch gears.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Abovetimberline

Take it back and have the dealer fix it,it sounds like the ign switch is bad.
You can also check the wires to the icm under the coil,with the ign switch off,if it has power then move the ign switch wires and see if it goes away.

Dwinthrup

I had this happen on a mazda once your fuel pump is probably still cycling. Try replacing the relay once.

mike89xj

Check your alternator wiring. It sounds like you're getting constant voltage to it somehow. If you know which wire it is you could try a diode in line. But you shouldn't have to do that. Someone screwed up the wiring.
Abovetimberline had the best suggestion. Take it back and have it fixed. But then the dealer's mechanic might have been the one who "fixed" it.

fantic238

What kind of engine? Carburetted? FI? Give us some more info.
If it's a 4.0l and the ignition switch is bad, it would need to give power to the B+ latch relay in order to stay on. Power just to the ICM wouldn't keep the engine running because the FP would stop and the injectors too.

exitandleave

Fuel injected 4.0.

Took it back to the dealer and he is completely unwilling to do anything about it. Said that he had the problem happen to him once and forgot to mention it when I bought it- or the two times I drove it. I think his exact wording was "the only problem it has is that you can't drive it until it's warmed up." Said that I bought it as is and that's it. Still would have expected him to work some kind of deal out for not mentioning it. He did say that the problem was in the ignition linkage- but that doesn't seem right to me.

Anyway-

Rigged up a kill switch for it today and, after doing that- it decided to start acting normal again. But there's a switch in place for when the problem comes back. Leaving this in place until I get some time do dig around and find the real problem.

Another problem with it- the one the dealer told me about- is that it's undriveable for the first ten minutes while it warms up. Trying to drive it before it's warmed up into operating temperature stalls it immediately. Driving two footed I can keep it going but that's about it. Any ideas? Never dealt with a FI engine- always had carbs.

Thanks for the quick responses and all the help.

fantic238

You have to find out if the sall is due to an electric oe fuel problem. Does it stall when you rev it in neutral cold?

ZachsXJ

I'd take it back to him and flex some muscle to try to get the dealer to pay to get it fixed. From what you're telling us he "conveniently" "forgot" to mention it to you before you bought the car. Haha, likely story. More like he knew about it and didn't tell you just so he'd make a sale.

mike89xj

Thanks for catching my goof fantic239. I've got carbs on the brain right now
Zach...the dealer knew about it you can bet on it. He also knows that there is really nothing exitandleave can do legally. The dealer obviously doesn't care about doing the right thing or establishing a good reputation. Lets hope karma is a real ***** to him.

ZachsXJ

Maybe we can arrange for some bologna circles to mysteriously appear on the paint of one of his cars. hahahahah

mike89xj

Disclaimer: I am only repeating information found on the internet that is easily available to anyone using any popular search engine.
Brake fluid will not harm a supersoaker but it is very damaging to paint.
Eggs are cheap. Automotive paint is not.
Seriously I'm just kidding. This guy isn't worth that. Revenge isn't really that sweet. I'd just fix the problem and take it as a lesson learned.
If there is some way to spread the word locally about this guys business practices that might be worth looking into. Even taking some time to stand outside his business on a weekend to tell customers about what happened.
That could be effective in the short term and it's legal.

Timber Wolf

Call the local Better Business Bureau and report what happened than call your Attorney General and find out what kind of "lemon" laws you have in your area.

oldburbboy

Auto or standard transmission? I just barely started having the same issue. I replaced the whole steering column, because I didn't have the tools I needed to replace the ignition switch, and it didn't help at all. Whats worse is not only that I couldn't get it to die but when I unhooked the alternator cuz someone said that a short inside of it can cause it to feed power when it isn't supposed to. Well, now it won't start either. Wasn't the ecu either or the starter relay. Been wondering if the latch relay can do this but I haven't found enough information to confirm.
Ps. mine has an automatic so I can't put it into gear like you said unless you're doing something different with that.

Slick761

Check starter relay.