Stangler

I have a 1999 XJ-

3.5 inch Rubicon Express superflex with extended brake lines front and rear
Fox Shocks
Locker in the rear 8.25
Open front D30
32" x 11.5" Hankook MT
Rusty's Offroad steering upgrade
New calipers/rotors/pads/brakelines up front
New drums/shoes/wheel cylinders in the rear
New front wheel bearing hubs and CM axles




I did complete brake/wheel hubs and axles all at once. The pass side front brake is making a noise that I can't figure out. It's the brake slightly dragging just off a stop, that causes the caliper and brake pads to move back and forth in the ears that retain the brake pads. Hard to explain, but just off a stop sign it make a clunking sound. It goes away with speed, and if I press on the brake.

I replaced the pads, rotors, calipers and lines from the body to the caliper. Issue started

I've swapped rotors and pads side to side, same issue on the same side. The issue did not move with the parts.

I swapped the caliper for a new one, same issue.

The only thing I have left is-
The aftermarket line may have damage inside that isn't allowing the pressure to release properly.
Bad master cylinder
Bad brake proportioning valve.

Any other ideas?

It stops straight, doesn't pull, and brakes are even side to side when measured for temp with a laser temp gun.

Paul80

Jackem

I just did the rear disc conversion and the pads came with a bag of little clips. Three thickness to choose from and they clip on the pads to tighten the fit - exactly where the arrows in your pic are.

Stangler

Thanks guys. I could very clearly see the brake pad moving back and forth in the ears of the front hub. I found some of those "clips" and put them in place on the pads and that cleared up 99% of the issue. I think I need to shim it just a tad tighter to clear it up all the way. When I was doing the brake job, I heard from a friend that if the pads coming off don't have the shims, then the new pads don't need any. I guess they were wrong. So glad I have helpful people on this site. Thanks again.


Nate

Sizemic2

I have the exact same issue on my 98, been worried it was gears or something more alarming, so I am very glad to see this!

Where did you get your shims and which ones?

Are your steering knuckles grooved where the pads ride, I've heard that can cause noise, clunking, sticking issues.

dave1123

Just the other day my mechanic got a set of pads for a customer's car from his supplier and one set didn't have the shims, so he called them and they brought up a set. The guy said someone must have stolen them out of the box. So where did he get the set he brought?

Jon G

I understand this is an older forum, but with that said, has anyone run across some kind of aftermarket add-on guide that compensates for the brake pad divets worn into my 335K mile knuckles? By the time I have the knuckles professionally repaired (welded/ground), I'd about break even by just purchasing new knuckles for around $150 ea. I welded and fabricated for many years and the thought of applying concentrated heat to just one area of the knuckle makes me nervous.
Of course there would be some additional shop help required, especially alignment $?.
I've noticed a few people have ground down that ridge. I'm hesitant to grind down that ridge surface to even them out - I think that might make the pad travel sloppy. Maybe I'm wrong about that.
Heard of any other solid fixes?
Thanks in advance!

Corky

Don't be scared of welding the knuckle.. And you wouldn't need to go crazy with the heat to get it repaired.. It's cast steel not iron..I use my 110v mig welder for the job {right in position without taking the knuckle off} then dress it with a flapper wheel..Don't go crazy just knock down the weld... Followed by a file to make sure everything is true.. Then add your stainless abutment clips to the brake pads to take up any slop.. Don't forget the brake lube for your fresh slider repair and it's a done deal.... I just did this on an old durango over the weekend and the brakes are smooth...

Jon G

Thanks Corky, you've helped instill more confidence - always nice to get a second opinion!

UKXJ

I'd always put the wear down to XJ's not having any clips. Certainly none of mine came with any, nor have any new pads.

awg

never seen clips, every XJ I seen has big grooves on the knuckles

any one got a pic of the clips ?

My brake man will be able to get them probably, but he will probably treat me like an idiot unless I show him a pic

I prep the knuckle prior to welding by heating with a butane torch, clean up weld area with a flapper wheel

I do finish it all out very carefully, so as not to remove too much surface material, but the MIG weld area is super smooth and very hard

Corky

The clips come in different thicknesses so you can mix and match for just the right amount of clearance for the smooth operation..This one is .020 in the pic...



Here's a pic of the whole assembly where you can see the clips in place.. The added bonus is that it widens the pad surface area so you don't get the divot back in the slider...

4.3L XJ

I welded mine and ground them down. Piece of cake. One advantage to welding with a wire feed is that the wire is harder than mild steel, so they will wear better after that

Jon G

Good info - I might pick up a minimal but will probably work stick welder for about $100.
I'd probably spend more than that taking it to a shop and have a future repair tool for other tasks.
I welded over 50 years so can get in the groove again (pun intended).
Thanks all!