Just one small thing I found with my 2000, when I tried to get the cluster bezel off, the headlight switch **** is supposed to fit thru the hole in it. It doesn't, and I had to remove the knee-knocker panel and reach up under the dash to push the shaft release button and pull the shaft out to get the bezel off. When I put it back on, I cut a slot with a Dremel cut-off wheel to clear that blinking shaft! I just replaced the 5 gauge illumination bulbs with LEDs and it made a big difference.

 

Yup, I'm good on burping the cooling system. Even have the special funnel for it.... had to do it a few times already when replacing the rad(for a 2nd time). just gotta track every nut and bolt. Im a little worried that there are small differences between the bolts/screws/studs from year to year, but will def heed your advice on keeping track of everything and will prob take pictures along the way. gonna be a beast of a job. Hopefully 4 hands make light work of it.

 

If you unbolt the steering column and lower it to the seat, you have enough room to hang the dash. I put my seats back as far as they would go and reclined them. The steering column needs to be straight and in its lowest position from the adjustment when you unbolt it. Once you unbolt it and lower it do not pull the adjustment lever on it or else it will bend and be difficult to get back into place. I unbolt it the dashboard Hold It Forward just enough and hung out with bungee cords and straps around the ceiling so that it hung out of the way and I could get to the heater core and Finagle a new one in there. In other words I did it without actually pulling everything completely out it is possible.

 

well gentlemen and gentleladies.... the heater core is finally replaced. that was indeed a beast of a job. Can't say it was super enjoyable... but things I was able to do while I was in there were:

1.) Clean: Clean everything really well (20 years of nasty dust). Vacuum all the carpets really well, and Armorall on all trim pieces
2.) Rust Repair: Had to paint some POR over light rust on passenger side floor well.
3.) Grounds/Electrical: Checked all the grounds (re-wired one completely)
4.) Lights: Replaced dash lights by feet on each side, and T-case, and shifter lights all with LEDs. easy job.
5.) Foam: Fix and/or replace foam around vents in HVAC box. Air flow is noticeably stronger after putting back together....
6.) Added foam mounting tape around screw hole areas to fix squeaky dash (my dash had sh*tty old red felt pieces)
****While I did not do this, I do recommend replacing your AC evaporator and blower motor while you are in there... easy and cheap to do. My A/C is already deleted and blower motor is fine.

Really not that hard of a job it you bag and tag everything... putting the HVAC box back together was a little bit of a PITA, but I figured it out. There are a lot of little nuances and I used a combination of 2 guys' videos on YouTube, plus some advice from CF.com. Anyone who ever has questions, LMK. Thanks for everyone's help above!

 

Long-Term Update: My heater core is leaking again... piece of crap chinesium already cracked. Do yourself a favor and spend the money on something better if you are going to replace your heater core.

 

Step #2 give up and call a mechanic

 

* take sequential pics with a digicam or phone..of every fastener you remove

* take video with verbal explanation at various points..these can be a life saver if some pics are not clear enough

* bag, box & label the fasteners is helpful

* own a small magnetic tray, this will help prevent fastener loss

 

Damn, that sucks. I'm in the middle of doing mine now, so I feel your pain. Where did the new one crack? Where the tubes attach to the main part of the core?

 

Chinese Replacement Auto Parts=C.R.A.P.