Anyone have problems with their horn?

Anyone know exactly where to find the horn relay? I know it’s inside the passenger compartment driver side near the fuse panel (I hear it click).

My 2015 Cherokee Ltd has an intermittent horn problem, I can hear the relay click when i press the steering wheel and when I lock it with the remote, but 9/10 times the horn doesn’t make a sound.

I have new original horns from Chrysler (confirmed these horns working 100%).
I measure the voltage at the horn connector and the signal is not getting there, even though I hear the relay click).

Hence I’m suspecting the relay.

I hear it click under the dash near the fuse panel but I cannot find it!

Closest thing I can find is this:

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/page_product/searchbyname?vin=&make=Jeep&model=Cherokee&year=20 15&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()&keywords=Re lay

From my 2014 service manual. Hopefully it's a wiring issue closer to the horn. If it's the relay in the BCM, you might be able to open to inspect and repair bad solder joints.

This is VERY helpful thank you!

My dealer shop foreman inspected and tested wiring to the horn, says it’s fine.

I’m suspecting the relay itself.

I hear the relay consistently click with the steering wheel horn press or key fob remote lock.

When I press and HOLD the steering wheel horn, the relays clicks, if I hold it long enough the horn eventually sounds (literally I need to hold it more than 30 seconds and it will always sound the horn).

I have tested with a volt meter at the horn connector (horn connected, and horn disconnected) and the volt meter is consistent with the press and hold test above.

I’ve made sure batt voltage is 12v or above when I’m testing (and most tests have been at 14v with engine running or with a 25A charger connected).

Hence I suspect wiring ok, and something between the relay coil (it always clicks) and the relay contacts or solder joints is faulty.
I bet it’s dirty/faulty contacts.

Is the BCM sealed?

I've never had to deal with the BCM in a Jeep, but I have had occasion to fix the BCM on a Nissan hardbody. Nearly every relay joint was cracked and it would randomly die on the road. The board probably isn't potted in silicon, and just has a conformal coating sprayed on the board. I'd probably pull it out, open it up and carefully inspect the solder joints around all of the relays for cracks or "cold" solder joints. A bad solder joint will usually have circular cracks right around the pins, or if it's a surface mount component the leg will be lifted off the board. I usually reheat and add a touch of new solder to any large current carrying pins.