Whats limiting my axle droop?
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0
Whats limiting my axle droop?
Ok so I finally got around to checking out my front end at work. My Right front doesn't drop down as low as my left front and it doesn't seem to drop down a whole lot like I would expect it to. I know the short arms limit it but they dont seem to be near their max angles. Best thing I can guess is my track bar seems to be catching the axle side bracket and stopping the droop. My steering altogether an issue? Any help and ideas? Thanks for any help
(Ignore the oil everywhere lol, bad power steering hose that was fixed now)
4.5" RE super flex and 33s. ZJ Tie rod.
(Ignore the oil everywhere lol, bad power steering hose that was fixed now)
4.5" RE super flex and 33s. ZJ Tie rod.
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Here is a good list of what limits flex.
1- stock front swaybar. get swaybar disconnects or remove it for the trails.
2- stock shocks (when you do this remember to lengthen your brake hoses as well)
3-lower control arms. it's not the bushings that always hurt the flex, but the fact that they hit the shock mounts on the stock dana30 front end will limit your suspension droop. most aftermarket arms will either have a bend in them or an offset bushing to compensate for this.
4- stock trackbar, there is a certain point where it will either bind at the frame end tie rod end, or the bracket at the axle end.
5- shortarms. time to go to longarms or a well built midarm setup if you want more flex.
6-stock steering, it isnt adequate for any wheeling anyway and should have been ditched before the longarms.
7- driveshaft, although most people should never have to worry about this.
1- stock front swaybar. get swaybar disconnects or remove it for the trails.
2- stock shocks (when you do this remember to lengthen your brake hoses as well)
3-lower control arms. it's not the bushings that always hurt the flex, but the fact that they hit the shock mounts on the stock dana30 front end will limit your suspension droop. most aftermarket arms will either have a bend in them or an offset bushing to compensate for this.
4- stock trackbar, there is a certain point where it will either bind at the frame end tie rod end, or the bracket at the axle end.
5- shortarms. time to go to longarms or a well built midarm setup if you want more flex.
6-stock steering, it isnt adequate for any wheeling anyway and should have been ditched before the longarms.
7- driveshaft, although most people should never have to worry about this.
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Year: 1990
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From what I see you are spot on about the track bar. But you have your ball joints on you rod ends about tapped out, and the steering box/pitman arm don't look to good either.
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Here is a good list of what limits flex.
1- stock front swaybar. get swaybar disconnects or remove it for the trails.
2- stock shocks (when you do this remember to lengthen your brake hoses as well)
3-lower control arms. it's not the bushings that always hurt the flex, but the fact that they hit the shock mounts on the stock dana30 front end will limit your suspension droop. most aftermarket arms will either have a bend in them or an offset bushing to compensate for this.
4- stock trackbar, there is a certain point where it will either bind at the frame end tie rod end, or the bracket at the axle end.
5- shortarms. time to go to longarms or a well built midarm setup if you want more flex.
6-stock steering, it isnt adequate for any wheeling anyway and should have been ditched before the longarms.
7- driveshaft, although most people should never have to worry about this.
1- stock front swaybar. get swaybar disconnects or remove it for the trails.
2- stock shocks (when you do this remember to lengthen your brake hoses as well)
3-lower control arms. it's not the bushings that always hurt the flex, but the fact that they hit the shock mounts on the stock dana30 front end will limit your suspension droop. most aftermarket arms will either have a bend in them or an offset bushing to compensate for this.
4- stock trackbar, there is a certain point where it will either bind at the frame end tie rod end, or the bracket at the axle end.
5- shortarms. time to go to longarms or a well built midarm setup if you want more flex.
6-stock steering, it isnt adequate for any wheeling anyway and should have been ditched before the longarms.
7- driveshaft, although most people should never have to worry about this.
2) Bilstein shocks
3) I believe I am not touching the mounts with my arms. Although they are straight ones.
4) RE adjustable Tbar
5) Roger that, long arms eventually
6) New steering yes, what steering though is the question for me.
7) No issues with the driveshaft
And I didnt really pay much attention to it, but I don't believe my LCAs are hitting my shock mounts, not sure on the distance to the mounts though. The shocks still have quite a bit of travel to go, hard to tell without measuring or taking off the boot but I got the longest ones that would work at the time of buying them.(supposedly, according to 4wheelparts atleast)
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I run that exact same track bar and it hasn't limited mine any, double sheer would be better and I've got one just haven't put it on. You aren't going to know exactly how much flex and or droop you have lifting the whole front. Most people do one side at a time and that forces the other side to drop more. The track bar will limit you when both tires are off the ground because it's hitting on the axle mount. This wouldn't happen in a real world situation when only one side is up or down. I'd also check the shock length.
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#8
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Year: 1996
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I run that exact same track bar and it hasn't limited mine any, double sheer would be better and I've got one just haven't put it on. You aren't going to know exactly how much flex and or droop you have lifting the whole front. Most people do one side at a time and that forces the other side to drop more. The track bar will limit you when both tires are off the ground because it's hitting on the axle mount. This wouldn't happen in a real world situation when only one side is up or down. I'd also check the shock length.
I dont think the flex is too bad, I just tend to get into situations where I would like it to drop down more. And steering bind I get relatively often.
#9
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You won't get much more than what you are showing in those pics. You could trim the shock mounts and get a little more but that's really good for short arms. In the last one you unseated the coil and that doesn't happen often with short arms. You have the exact same kit I started out with and I still run the arms, track bar and rear leaves, although I had them ship me 4.5" leaves instead of 3.5".
#10
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You won't get much more than what you are showing in those pics. You could trim the shock mounts and get a little more but that's really good for short arms. In the last one you unseated the coil and that doesn't happen often with short arms. You have the exact same kit I started out with and I still run the arms, track bar and rear leaves, although I had them ship me 4.5" leaves instead of 3.5".
#12
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What I do is start unbolting things until I see what's causing it, start with the shocks, maybe they don't have enough travel, then try the trac-bar ( maybe get a flex joint end and double shear frame mount for the bar you have), then steering, etc. when that baby drops you'll have your answer. I had the same RE short arm, same trac bar, with bilstien shocks and it flexed crazy good, would limit out ten inch travel bilstien shocks.
#13
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Year: 1996
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I'm having the same problem. I get 3" less on the passenger side. 6" lift with upgraded trac-bar, upper and lower Control arms, shocks, ZJ steering. Only thing I see is maybe the pitmen arm ball join doesn't have enough flex?? Did you find out what was your problem?
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Stock xj wont flex much because arms are already pointing at the ground.
track bar, control arms, drag link. All travel in a arc. The closer they are to horizontal at ride height the better ride and suspension travel you will have.
If track is pretty steep it pulls axle to drivers side under droop and pushes away under compression
But yeah pull shocks off. Make sure control arms arent hitting coil bucket.
Articulate with coil springs removed to figure out shock length. Then fab lower shock mount to accommodate this length
5" up and 7" down for a overall shock travel of 12" is a pretty good place to be. I see xj with shocks with 2-6" up travel
They seem to have tons of droop or tons of compression rarely do they have a good amount on each end.
5" of up travel is a good length for hitting things like knareley pot holes in the street.
Then 7" of droop really is more than a trail rig needs
Good luck getting this to happen with oem shock brackets. I really do feel for the xj crowd that has to fit stuff together that has a hard time working together to actually tune a set up a solid performing rig.
track bar, control arms, drag link. All travel in a arc. The closer they are to horizontal at ride height the better ride and suspension travel you will have.
If track is pretty steep it pulls axle to drivers side under droop and pushes away under compression
But yeah pull shocks off. Make sure control arms arent hitting coil bucket.
Articulate with coil springs removed to figure out shock length. Then fab lower shock mount to accommodate this length
5" up and 7" down for a overall shock travel of 12" is a pretty good place to be. I see xj with shocks with 2-6" up travel
They seem to have tons of droop or tons of compression rarely do they have a good amount on each end.
5" of up travel is a good length for hitting things like knareley pot holes in the street.
Then 7" of droop really is more than a trail rig needs
Good luck getting this to happen with oem shock brackets. I really do feel for the xj crowd that has to fit stuff together that has a hard time working together to actually tune a set up a solid performing rig.
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