Under hood struts
#5
Seasoned Member
https://www.ebay.com/itm/331515180518
This resembles the kit I installed, a little pricey, but I bet you'll check your fluids more often
This resembles the kit I installed, a little pricey, but I bet you'll check your fluids more often
#6
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/331515180518
This resembles the kit I installed, a little pricey, but I bet you'll check your fluids more often
This resembles the kit I installed, a little pricey, but I bet you'll check your fluids more often
#7
About a year ago I needed to replace my rear hatch struts. Once off, they still felt pretty stout, just not strong enough to overcome the bad angle on the hatch door. I found some ball stud brackets at NAPA and put them on my hood. Still plenty strong to hold the hood up. In fact I can disconnect one and still keep the hood up. Works great. I just release the safety catch and the hood pops right up.
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ijeeep (05-03-2020)
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#8
Seasoned Member
Lifting weights is a cheaper option if that hood is too heavy.
Last edited by TheBoogieman; 05-03-2020 at 09:39 AM.
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#11
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
About a year ago I needed to replace my rear hatch struts. Once off, they still felt pretty stout, just not strong enough to overcome the bad angle on the hatch door. I found some ball stud brackets at NAPA and put them on my hood. Still plenty strong to hold the hood up. In fact I can disconnect one and still keep the hood up. Works great. I just release the safety catch and the hood pops right up.
The following users liked this post:
ijeeep (05-03-2020)
#12
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Hatch struts weaken over time because the nitrogen migrates out the shaft seals over the years. I installed mine "upside down" with the shaft on the bottom and the cylinder body on top. That makes sure the seals stay wet with oil and should last longer than" right side up"
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