I currently have a 01 4.0 with dana 30 and 35. Unfortunately the front axle looks bent. I have a 97 that had the 4 banger pulled out and it's been sitting for about 4 or 5 years. Looks like it's got an 8.25 rear and dana 30 front. Not sure what gear ratio.
My brother and I are preparing to tackle the swap but neither of us have done one. Are we over our heads? We should have all the tools necessary including air tools. Hopefully no welding is needed. What are going to be the challenges with this and does anyone have any links to good write ups, I'm struggling finding one.

-Thanks!

 

With the 4 cylinder it should be 4.10's. The '01 is a LP axle & the '97 is a HP axle. I hope you have some lift or you might have interference with the oil pan & D shaft.
Both are bolt in: zero welding needed. Easy job that can be done in a few hours.

 

Yeah, have about 3-4 inches right now. I plan on replacing all the u joints, should I be OK keeping the 01's drive shafts?

We're going to try and take 2 days and a few cases of beer. Hopefully that's enough time (and beer).

 

You will need the rear from the 97 I think ?

 

Use the drive shaft that fits. I think the d35 uses a different pinion joint yoke on the drive shaft. So you might have to transfer the yoke to the shaft you uses. fronts will bolt up. Important thing is to use the shafts that fit the best.

 

Umm 1310 series joints at both ends , iirc the pinion is longer/shorter on one or the other .

 

So it sounds like I should just plug in which drive shaft works and go with that. I didn't check to see if both have the same transfer case. My 97 has an aftermarket front driveshaft for some reason.

But does anyone know of a write up? It can't be as simple as unbolting everything that holds it up and rebolting the new one. I do plan on changing the gear oil while it's out.

 

it's cake, just like installing a lift, undo all the control arms, track bar, and steering & install the new axles. For the rear, you'll want to buy new U bolts. Don't reuse the ones you take off.


I just did this swap a couple of weeks ago. took a bit of time as some bolts were rusted, It was straight forward. Replace all u joints in the drive shafts as the angles are going to be different and your old u joints are worn. I ended up having some driveshaft vibs (from the rear I think). that's all I had to deal with.


Good luck... I'd recommend doing a disk brake swap while you're at it. that's a great upgrade too.....

 

It's easy in theory. Rust always makes things more challenging than it needs to be. You should get a pickle fork, that will help remove stuck tre's on the steering. The brake lines could be little buggers also. But yes, it really is just take off everything that holds the axle on and replace with the other axle. Steering, shocks, control arms, brake lines, and driveshaft on the front. Shocks, u-bolts, brake lines and driveshaft on the rear.

If the 97 axle really is an 8.25 then it sounds like you have a nice swap. The HP front axle and 4.10s will be awesome. Patience is key!

 

This is the rear end of the 97. Chrysler 8.25, right?

 

Yep. To determine the gear ratio, jack up one tire and make a small mark somewhere on the tire and another on the driveshaft. Then, turn the wheel one time and count the amount of times the driveshaft turns

 

So we got around to starting the swap on Thursday. About 9 hours of work and we pulled the hp d30, replaced the ball joints and a wheel bearing that fell apart. Pulled the lp d30 and I found out that when I would turn the drivers side wheel bearing the yoke wouldn't spin, good thing I'm replacing it! We were able to get the hp d30 about half mounted before we were wore out. All the u joints were solid so we left them. All that's left is reattaching the axle to the parts jeep and finishing the re attachment of the good jeep. Then it's on to the rear axle. The ball joints were time consuming, hopefully the rear is faster but we have to bleed the brakes afterward.

 

Were they 4.10s?

 

Lucky that you had the 4 banger for parts to donate if its a 5 spd in the 4cyd it should be 4.10's not certain if its and auto.

One thing you will need is a new set of U-Bolts to fit the 8.25 rear and grade 8 hardware for the leafs also. Never use old hardware unless you have to as it all stretches and washers flatten out. H

Heck I would even do a brake job on the new one with new parts, including extended SS brake lines. Same for the front things are much easier to get to with everything removed for sure.