I recently just finished putting the jcr utk 1-ton steering on my xj and I noticed that the old man emu SS rubs and knocks on the track bar and there is a noticeable dent in it. I used a ruffstuff bracket to attach the SS to the tie rod, and I don't know how I can attach it differently. What should I do besides just take off the SS?
This is mine, no rubbing. Note rotation of bracket, shock mounted on flip side verses yours, and spacer between bracket and shock (looks like you have the spacer) length of spacer can be changed also if need be.
Also your shock looks a bit shorter than mine make sure you dont hit the limit of shock in or out travel when steering. center it so mid range of travel is when wheels are straight, then raise jeep and turn the steering wheel to full lock each way to make sure shock is not bottomed or topped out. You should disconnect one side of shock and then measure its length full closed, fully open to you will be able to know how close you are to the shock limit when full lock to lock steering. so get that measurement, dont guess.
Also the bolt you have used thru shock to bracket is too short, it should fully engage into the nut. use a high grade bolt and nut here. grade 10 or 8 is what I like on suspension stuff, ungraded hardware should be avoided here.
Note....my jeep when purchased had that same rubbing you have, rearranging the bracket was the fix. a so called 4x4 shop(well known national chain 4x4 shop!) did a lot of the work for prior owner, and much of it was done wrong! Some of the "professional" workdone was dangerous! I have corrected many of their errors!
Also your shock looks a bit shorter than mine make sure you dont hit the limit of shock in or out travel when steering. center it so mid range of travel is when wheels are straight, then raise jeep and turn the steering wheel to full lock each way to make sure shock is not bottomed or topped out. You should disconnect one side of shock and then measure its length full closed, fully open to you will be able to know how close you are to the shock limit when full lock to lock steering. so get that measurement, dont guess.
Also the bolt you have used thru shock to bracket is too short, it should fully engage into the nut. use a high grade bolt and nut here. grade 10 or 8 is what I like on suspension stuff, ungraded hardware should be avoided here.
Note....my jeep when purchased had that same rubbing you have, rearranging the bracket was the fix. a so called 4x4 shop(well known national chain 4x4 shop!) did a lot of the work for prior owner, and much of it was done wrong! Some of the "professional" workdone was dangerous! I have corrected many of their errors!
Hmmmm, alright. I just used the bolt that came with the ss that was meant for the stock steering. What replacement bolt should I get?
That does look good, I just don't have the money to get that right now. Also, probably just an excuse, but I just put in a locker and that's a hassle I don't want to do again just yet.
1. There is a small loss of ground clearance with this set up.
2. The cover maybe an issue for correct lubrication. the cover in stock form is shaped to direct the oil to the bearings properly, the offset bulge on a stock cover accomplishes this. I have seen a video of diff covers made of clear plastic, showing how the oil flows with stock shape verses non stock.
3. The ad says its advantage is to move the shock to prevent hitting, but we know it can be fixed by relocating the bracket.
Why not run the clear plastic cover so its used like a site glass then diff oil level is always known.
knf a heavy duty diff cover isn't needed or wanted then i assume the rig is not used off road if steering is set up correctly a stabalizer is not needed at all.
1. There is a small loss of ground clearance with this set up.
2. The cover maybe an issue for correct lubrication. the cover in stock form is shaped to direct the oil to the bearings properly, the offset bulge on a stock cover accomplishes this. I have seen a video of diff covers made of clear plastic, showing how the oil flows with stock shape verses non stock.
3. The ad says its advantage is to move the shock to prevent hitting, but we know it can be fixed by relocating the bracket.
I got my hands on a nice fox stabilizer. Honest question, bad idea or not so bad idea on moving the stabilizer from the drag link to the tierod? Currently fabbing my own one ton steering
Still basic set up, working out the kinks yet but trying to be more creative with some of the skill I've been blessed to learn and love. So do you think the tierod would be a good place?
Yes on the tie rod so forces from trail imput go directly into the stabilizer instead of on a drag link thats at a steep angle agaisnt the steering forces.
Id look closely at the ruffstuff Cover with stabilizer mount Tabs or fab yourself.
Or correct steering geometry and not need a stabalizer at all.
Wj steering over the knuckle and drag link mount along with Trackball to match will go 100 times farther to improving all around steering This is salvaged 1ton steering turned into wj over the knuckle it actually steers better than my buddies wj Drag link track bar are the same length and angle. Im a stickler for good angles and would like mine better still. Been thinking about tossing a zj piman on and lowering the track bar to the bottom hole. That will make angles slightly better by about .75"
Drooped out my angles angles arent horrible compared to spme xjs sitting on flat ground.
if your fabbing 1ton steering you can take it to wj steering without much more work.
This jeep runs 70 on the freeway steers better than my cummins pickup even. Ive upgraded its steering to but not to true cross over.
Have fun with it. Building and tuning for me is as fun as getting it out on the trails
1ton steering This was the very last run on 1ton steering. Broke and axle, a stock knuckle, ripped a sidewall. Winched for miles to get to were i could get my pickup to it to recover it.
