Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 11:45 AM
  #16  
McCaffrey's Avatar
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From: California
Year: 1989
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I just got this exact kit and almost done with the install. One thing I will say, and it has nothing to do with the awesome kit, is that drilling with a hand-drill was a fricken nightmare. Metal is pretty soft and drilled easy but would constantly grab. If I had to do it again I'd take everything off and find somebody with a drill press.

I have later year knuckles for a brake upgrade and might consider reaming instead of insert. I don't know why the reaming sounded scary but is probably easier.

Last edited by McCaffrey; Sep 3, 2013 at 11:51 AM.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 12:26 PM
  #17  
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Which kit? Otk or utk
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 12:27 PM
  #18  
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From: Pahrump, NV
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
I just got this exact kit and almost done with the install. One thing I will say, and it has nothing to do with the awesome kit, is that drilling with a hand-drill was a fricken nightmare. Metal is pretty soft and drilled easy but would constantly grab. If I had to do it again I'd take everything off and find somebody with a drill press.

I have later year knuckles for a brake upgrade and might consider reaming instead of insert. I don't know why the reaming sounded scary but is probably easier.
Ya drilling sucked. Never been bashed against the jeep that much! After I got the knuckles drilled, I took the pitman to a shop with a press. Lol. I was over it.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 01:01 PM
  #19  
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From: California
Year: 1989
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Originally Posted by Gianotti
Which kit? Otk or utk
Mine is UTK. Only 4.5" lift and not interested in making any more complicated.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 08:00 PM
  #20  
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From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
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I'm in the K.I.S.S. column as well on my XJ and plan on keeping it that way. Do it all the correct way/best you can afford the first time and don't look back and keep redoing the same things.

I'm taking the same approach as I have for the last 40 years of drag racing, use the best parts and engine builders you can afford!

Fred/N0AZZ
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 11:25 PM
  #21  
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From: California
Year: 1989
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Tiny almost insignificant neg. Kit needs to include washers. At least the kit w/ inserts as the 7/8" hole is almost the same size as the outside of the nut. It's no big deal if the buyer or supplier pays for them but including would have saved me a trip to the hardware store.

I'm really looking forward to beating the crap out of it soon. And of course any excuse to ***** out my rig...


Last edited by McCaffrey; Sep 3, 2013 at 11:29 PM.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 11:34 PM
  #22  
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From: Pahrump, NV
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
Tiny almost insignificant neg. Kit needs to include washers. At least the kit w/ inserts as the 7/8" hole is almost the same size as the outside of the nut. It's no big deal if the buyer or supplier pays for them but including would have saved me a trip to the hardware store.

I'm really looking forward to beating the crap out of it soon. And of course any excuse to ***** out my rig...
Sexy
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 11:53 AM
  #23  
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From: California
Year: 1989
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Engine: 4.0L
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I took the Serious kit out for a day trip on Saturday. Black diamond trails and moderate obstacle course. I had 3 new systems to evaluate (front locker, steering, SYE-CV). The steering is the only system I didn't have issues with. Didn't think about it all day.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 02:24 PM
  #24  
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FAWESOME!!!
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 02:36 PM
  #25  
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From: Seal Beach, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
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Hey Frank, there any remedy for the tie rod hitting the track bar bolt when turning to the right? Turning left is no problem, doesn't come close to touching there.

I threw some washers on the steering stop temporarily but I miss my turning radius.

Obviously going OTK would solve it but not feasible at the moment.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 02:48 PM
  #26  
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You can install a torx button head bolt or grind down the head of the bolt you currently have. The bolt is under a shear load so grinding the head down a little won't hurt anything.
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