Steering Setup
#16
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Location: California
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I just got this exact kit and almost done with the install. One thing I will say, and it has nothing to do with the awesome kit, is that drilling with a hand-drill was a fricken nightmare. Metal is pretty soft and drilled easy but would constantly grab. If I had to do it again I'd take everything off and find somebody with a drill press.
I have later year knuckles for a brake upgrade and might consider reaming instead of insert. I don't know why the reaming sounded scary but is probably easier.
I have later year knuckles for a brake upgrade and might consider reaming instead of insert. I don't know why the reaming sounded scary but is probably easier.
Last edited by McCaffrey; 09-03-2013 at 11:51 AM.
#18
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Location: Pahrump, NV
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I just got this exact kit and almost done with the install. One thing I will say, and it has nothing to do with the awesome kit, is that drilling with a hand-drill was a fricken nightmare. Metal is pretty soft and drilled easy but would constantly grab. If I had to do it again I'd take everything off and find somebody with a drill press.
I have later year knuckles for a brake upgrade and might consider reaming instead of insert. I don't know why the reaming sounded scary but is probably easier.
I have later year knuckles for a brake upgrade and might consider reaming instead of insert. I don't know why the reaming sounded scary but is probably easier.
#20
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Location: Monett, MO.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm in the K.I.S.S. column as well on my XJ and plan on keeping it that way. Do it all the correct way/best you can afford the first time and don't look back and keep redoing the same things.
I'm taking the same approach as I have for the last 40 years of drag racing, use the best parts and engine builders you can afford!
Fred/N0AZZ
I'm taking the same approach as I have for the last 40 years of drag racing, use the best parts and engine builders you can afford!
Fred/N0AZZ
#21
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Tiny almost insignificant neg. Kit needs to include washers. At least the kit w/ inserts as the 7/8" hole is almost the same size as the outside of the nut. It's no big deal if the buyer or supplier pays for them but including would have saved me a trip to the hardware store.
I'm really looking forward to beating the crap out of it soon. And of course any excuse to ***** out my rig...
I'm really looking forward to beating the crap out of it soon. And of course any excuse to ***** out my rig...
Last edited by McCaffrey; 09-03-2013 at 11:29 PM.
#22
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Location: Pahrump, NV
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Tiny almost insignificant neg. Kit needs to include washers. At least the kit w/ inserts as the 7/8" hole is almost the same size as the outside of the nut. It's no big deal if the buyer or supplier pays for them but including would have saved me a trip to the hardware store.
I'm really looking forward to beating the crap out of it soon. And of course any excuse to ***** out my rig...
I'm really looking forward to beating the crap out of it soon. And of course any excuse to ***** out my rig...
#23
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I took the Serious kit out for a day trip on Saturday. Black diamond trails and moderate obstacle course. I had 3 new systems to evaluate (front locker, steering, SYE-CV). The steering is the only system I didn't have issues with. Didn't think about it all day.
#25
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
Hey Frank, there any remedy for the tie rod hitting the track bar bolt when turning to the right? Turning left is no problem, doesn't come close to touching there.
I threw some washers on the steering stop temporarily but I miss my turning radius.
Obviously going OTK would solve it but not feasible at the moment.
I threw some washers on the steering stop temporarily but I miss my turning radius.
Obviously going OTK would solve it but not feasible at the moment.
#26
You can install a torx button head bolt or grind down the head of the bolt you currently have. The bolt is under a shear load so grinding the head down a little won't hurt anything.
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