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I got a pair of axles today for a great deal, but I can't figure out the steering setup or how to set it up atleast on this Dana 30.
I'm not sure if the drag link goes into the tabs on top of the tie rod or what. If it does it seems like the drag link is way to long to meet up with my pitman arm. That's what was throwing me off. Almost like the tabs need to be closer to the passenger side knuckle.
Ps. The guy said it had a hydraulic assist or something on it but it was sold separately, you can see where the tabs were welded onto the diff cover for it.
i see RCV shafts in there. are they locked? also that looks like custom built steering...
Yah rcv shafts, 4.88 gears (he was pretty sure they're Yukon gears), and it's locked. He couldn't remember what type of locker, pretty sure it was an Aussie or Spartan locker
As for the the steering do you think it's worth trying figure out or should I just switch to another complete 3/4" utk steering setup
Yah rcv shafts, 4.88 gears (he was pretty sure they're Yukon gears), and it's locked. He couldn't remember what type of locker, pretty sure it was an Aussie or Spartan locker
As for the the steering do you think it's worth trying figure out or should I just switch to another complete 3/4" utk steering setup
Looks like the bar is bent? Maybe just the pic...how much lift are you running? What type of rig? Why UTK? Have you considered OTK trackbar and steering? A lot of unknowns here to give you a solid answer, but it would seem easier to start over and know what you have. JMO
It looks like it had a hydraulic assist or a steering stabilizer is why that tab is on the lower link.But like others have said it looks bent and kinda under sized to me best to replace it.And that 8.8 looks like it has tnt customs u-bolt eliminators on it.Whoever owned them spent some money on both axles.
Yah the bar is slightly bent so I was gonna replace it anyways and he did tell me that there was a hydraulic ram that was tacked with brackets on the diff cover. I just didn't think the bolt on the passenger side was long enough to put the drag link up top like that.
Looks like the bar is bent? Maybe just the pic...how much lift are you running? What type of rig? Why UTK? Have you considered OTK trackbar and steering? A lot of unknowns here to give you a solid answer, but it would seem easier to start over and know what you have. JMO
I'm sitting at 5" right now and I'm putting 35s on. I'm trying to build it as a trail right but somthing I can still daily drive from time to time.
I looked into OTK but it seemed like more fab work than in capable/comfortable doing on a street driven right plus not having a welder affect it too. I figured UTK would be a solid plan for 35s on the street
It looks like it had a hydraulic assist or a steering stabilizer is why that tab is on the lower link.But like others have said it looks bent and kinda under sized to me best to replace it.And that 8.8 looks like it has tnt customs u-bolt eliminators on it.Whoever owned them spent some money on both axles.
Yah it has U-bolt eliminators on the 8.8, and a Rock crusher diff cover. The Dana 30 has some aftermarket HD diff cover, and both axles have what he thinks we're Yukon gears (4.88s), and the Dana 30 has rcv shafts. Gave me the adaptor for the 8.8 to jeep driveshaft. All the parts have low miles. Got a great deal on it all
I was looking at the axle today and I did notice that both the sway bar mounts and the steering stabilizer mount have been cut off this axle.
Looks like I'll have to weld a set of swaybar brackets back on. As for the steering stabilizer mount I've heard that people have had better luck with the their steering without using a stabilizer on a street driven rig. Is there any truth to this?
i have taken mine off on my built cherokee and it drives fine. i would just replace the steering, get your wheels and tires on it and test drive it as is. you may or may not want/need one. some do, some don't.
Do you mean you took the steering stabilizer off and the front swaybar or just the steering stabilizer?
And for the steering should I stick with the crossover setup but use tre's instead of Heims joints or should I change to like an UTK/OTK?
I was actually thinking about the crossover setup with the wj knuckles but I wasn't sure if it was really worth the cost to do it when compared to other options