I was looking into getting this for my daily/weekend wheeler, any input on this setup?

http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...ath=1231_2092&

 

I actually had the exact same setup for a very short time. Without re-locating the track bar, I had serious bumpsteer....

 

I love this kit. I'm lifted 4.5" no track bar relocation bracket, no bump steer. I recommend.

 

Good product. You don't need trackbar relocation because its staying UTK.

 

Tell me more.
My kit by itself does not cause bumpsteer.

Bumpsteer results from the trackbar and draglink not being parallel.

To the OP:
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...ath=1231_2092&

http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...ath=1231_2092&

http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...ath=1231_2092&

 

Thanks! Will be Purchasing soon!!

 

Just my experience... 6.5" of lift..

Also if you notice on the picture, the upper tie rod end by the pitman arm is already flexed to its near max. Just picture the right side being flexed down a little... my set up was for max flex so not acceptable to have anything binding.

The only way to fix that that I could think of is to have the drag link (between pitman arm and steering knuckle) going on top of the knuckle and the other link to remain at the bottom of the knuckle to joint both wheels. (like the picture)

 

I may be quick to follow, I wanted the IRO OTK kit, but I like your setup (jamb nuts on the drag link) where IRO has clamps (like stock) a lot more.

Just have to decide if I want to go otk or utk now.
Need to research on moving lower track mount still.

 

As a note.. The clamps will only work if the metal is thin enough to be pinched. When there is enough beef, Jam nuts are the only way to go...

 

is there any big difference between UTK and OTK?

 

That what I was thinking... The IRO bars are solid (not tube) but, that seems like a huge flaw in design.

 

I always keep in mind.. What part would I want to bend if something had to give......
1/4 think square tube bumpers are a NO NO if you want to keep your frame intact or super thick steering components will rip the tie rod ends (or worse) out before bending.. Much harder to fix on the trail...

Just saying..How much beef is to much?

 

No, the way to correct it is to install an OTK kit at that lift height.

Also, the ball in the TRE on the draglink (where it mates to the tie-rod) will rotate in the TRE housing.

Haven't had a single customer complain of any binding, and I've sold nearly 400 kits in 2.5 years.

 

Dont take this the wrong way. there are many companies out there that sell products that people are happy with. To me, it doesn't mean it is the ultimate kit. I learned that first hand from buying from Rancho's POS.

If it works for 400 people, thats awesome...Just not the design I would put on my jeep...

 

A lot more work for OTK, OTK is better for higher lifts.