When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So you would run rcas to amp and then from amp to 2 6x9 woofers in rear hatch?
Nearly all car stereos will handle 4 speakers on their own. So if the two 6x9 in the rear hatch will be your third and fourth speakers, you can just use the stereo to run them. You can use an external amp if you wish, but it's not required. Personally, I wouldn't go to that much trouble just for a couple of 6x9's.
Now, if you already have four speaker (two in front doors and two in rear headliner, for example) you will need to use and external amp to drive any speakers beyond the first four.
The Dual amplified sub you linked to would probably work just fine, if you just want something quick and easy to put in the back. You'll need a long set of RCA cables, probably 12-15 feet, and hopefully that 8 gauge wire kit (probably not truly 8 gauge) will be up to the task.
Nearly all car stereos will handle 4 speakers on their own. So if the two 6x9 in the rear hatch will be your third and fourth speakers, you can just use the stereo to run them. You can use an external amp if you wish, but it's not required. Personally, I wouldn't go to that much trouble just for a couple of 6x9's.
Now, if you already have four speaker (two in front doors and two in rear headliner, for example) you will need to use and external amp to drive any speakers beyond the first four.
The Dual amplified sub you linked to would probably work just fine, if you just want something quick and easy to put in the back. You'll need a long set of RCA cables, probably 12-15 feet, and hopefully that 8 gauge wire kit (probably not truly 8 gauge) will be up to the task.
Ive got 6 5.25s plust the factory under dash tweets . I was planning on changing to rear hatch ones to just 6 x 9 woofers .That dual set ups probably the ticket and gonna hide it under rear seat .
Dont really need all the watts but cant beat the price....All ready running a 300 watt for the other speakers ....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-BAK1500-10-1500W-Active-Powered-Under-Seat-Car-Subwoofer-Sub-Wire-Kit-/301343734445?pt=US_Speaker_Sub_Enclosures&hash=item46297c7aad&vxp=mtr
Neither of the amplified subs you mentioned will fit under the back seat. So far, I haven't found any that will even come close. I was hard-pressed to find just an amplifier that would fit under the rear seat and still have any breathing room to keep it form overheating.
Either one of those would fit BEHIND the rear seat. Personally, I'd go for the first one you mentioned, as it seems far more legitimate in terms of specs. That second one has "false advertising" written all over it. No way you'll get anywhere near a true sustained 1500 watts out of something so small. And even if you could, that 10 guage wiring kit isn't anywhere near big enough to handle that much draw.
1500 watts / 12 volts = 125 amps. You'd need a big honking 2 gauge main power lead to handle that much current.
the first one is larger, so there is more airspace inside the box, which means that all things being equal, it will be able to produce lower notes. The integrated amp in it looks to also be set up for better cooling. Lastly, in teh event you ever damage or blow out the sub, the first one will be easier to find, buy, and install a replacement sub. That second one is going to require that the same exact speaker be installed.
I've added all 4 new speakers, 5.25" Sonys in front doors, 6.25" Kenwood (I think they're Kenwoods) in the sound bar. Noticeable clarity increase with the 6.25" speakers in the back (not as muffled sounding, and no mods needed), but I think I'll still get a small, probably self-powered sub, as I'm just looking for high volumes and better bass without distortion. Note: I'm just running me speakers off a regular aftermarket Sony head unit...
Neither of the amplified subs you mentioned will fit under the back seat. So far, I haven't found any that will even come close. I was hard-pressed to find just an amplifier that would fit under the rear seat and still have any breathing room to keep it form overheating.
Either one of those would fit BEHIND the rear seat. Personally, I'd go for the first one you mentioned, as it seems far more legitimate in terms of specs. That second one has "false advertising" written all over it. No way you'll get anywhere near a true sustained 1500 watts out of something so small. And even if you could, that 10 guage wiring kit isn't anywhere near big enough to handle that much draw.
1500 watts / 12 volts = 125 amps. You'd need a big honking 2 gauge main power lead to handle that much current.
the first one is larger, so there is more airspace inside the box, which means that all things being equal, it will be able to produce lower notes. The integrated amp in it looks to also be set up for better cooling. Lastly, in teh event you ever damage or blow out the sub, the first one will be easier to find, buy, and install a replacement sub. That second one is going to require that the same exact speaker be installed.
Ya thought that also about the watt qty .As 4 in cargo are Im full from back seat to hatch. Recover stuff ,spare drive shafts and 80lb tool chest . So under seats only option even my cubby used up. Ive got a set of spare front axles a radiator hoses under rear seat now. No one ever rides in back seat so modding the under side might be possible for clearence. Got this in glove box all ready for its size its perfect really added larity to my system .
I've added all 4 new speakers, 5.25" Sonys in front doors, 6.25" Kenwood (I think they're Kenwoods) in the sound bar. Noticeable clarity increase with the 6.25" speakers in the back (not as muffled sounding, and no mods needed), but I think I'll still get a small, probably self-powered sub, as I'm just looking for high volumes and better bass without distortion. Note: I'm just running me speakers off a regular aftermarket Sony head unit...
All except for the 6.25s I ran this same set up for years was very pleased. I only upgraded because wanted bluetooth and like the set up we just installed in our 86 Monte. So I dug into the piggy bank.
Not directly. The RCA just supplies a low-level (essentially un-amplified) signal. You must run a patch cord between that RCA and the RCA input of an external amplifier, which has its outputs wired to the sub. Or you can RCA patch directly into an amplified sub, like an amplified Bazooka tube or similar. My Dual XPE2700 fits perfectly under the front passenger seat. It's been there for three years and still going strong. And when you run it in bridged mode, it provides plenty of (reasonable) power for anything from a 6" to a 12" sub. No, you're not going to rattle the mirrors of every car in a 100 foot radius, but it will provide plenty of kick that you can hear and feel.
I know a couple people with the new Grand Cherokees that have the Premium nine-speaker sound package with the 10" sub that say my stereo system sounds better. The Polks I have paired with the Pioneer 8" sub work very well together.
Stero has a fosgate amp internal and a sub woofer level control woul this not power a small 8 inch sub ? Im running a KD-AR959BS Jvc.
I'm not sure what you mean by your stereo having a "fosgate amp internal". Do you mean "Mosfet"? That is just the common type of car stereo amplifier circuitry. Your JVC stereo will have a built in 4-channel amp, using one channel for each of four speakers. The subwoofer RCA output is not amplified. It's just the audio signal. It will have less than 1 watt of total output. Think of it like the amount of power that would go to a set of ear buds. It's not going to even remotely push a sub, much less any car stereo speaker, and attempting to do that could caused permanent damage to your stereo.
You will have to run that unamplified signal to an amplifier in order to push a sub.
Personally, I'm running my 4 Polk door and soundbar speakers off of just the stereo without an external amp. the only external amp I have is the Dual XPE2700, and it only pushes the single subwoofer I have.
Your JVC stereo has 22 watts per channel, which is enough to run your smaller speakers. Most people don't realize this, but when you have your volume set to about the same loudness as a conversation, the stereo is only having to provide roughly .75 to 1.5 watts to each speaker, so almost nothing. It doesn't take a ton of power to push a 6.5" or 5.25 inch speaker.
I have a background in car stereo (20 years ago, but the physics hasn't changed), currently work as an Information Technology Director, used to build custom homes and help homebuyers with the layout and design of their home theaters, have high-end home audio stuff myself, and I'm a fanatical gadget freak. If you look at my profile, you'll find a bunch of posts regarding car stereo info that you may find helpful.
Below I've pasted the specs for your stereo. You'll see that the sub output, under "expandability" is labeled as "preamp", meaning not amplified. It's just raw signal with no power behind it.
I'm not sure what you mean by your stereo having a "fosgate amp internal". Do you mean "Mosfet"? That is just the common type of car stereo amplifier circuitry. Your JVC stereo will have a built in 4-channel amp, using one channel for each of four speakers. The subwoofer RCA output is not amplified. It's just the audio signal. It will have less than 1 watt of total output. Think of it like the amount of power that would go to a set of ear buds. It's not going to even remotely push a sub, much less any car stereo speaker, and attempting to do that could caused permanent damage to your stereo.
You will have to run that unamplified signal to an amplifier in order to push a sub.
Personally, I'm running my 4 Polk door and soundbar speakers off of just the stereo without an external amp. the only external amp I have is the Dual XPE2700, and it only pushes the single subwoofer I have.
Your JVC stereo has 22 watts per channel, which is enough to run your smaller speakers. Most people don't realize this, but when you have your volume set to about the same loudness as a conversation, the stereo is only having to provide roughly .75 to 1.5 watts to each speaker, so almost nothing. It doesn't take a ton of power to push a 6.5" or 5.25 inch speaker.
I have a background in car stereo (20 years ago, but the physics hasn't changed), currently work as an Information Technology Director, used to build custom homes and help homebuyers with the layout and design of their home theaters, have high-end home audio stuff myself, and I'm a fanatical gadget freak. If you look at my profile, you'll find a bunch of posts regarding car stereo info that you may find helpful.
Below I've pasted the specs for your stereo. You'll see that the sub output, under "expandability" is labeled as "preamp", meaning not amplified. It's just raw signal with no power behind it.
Would 6 x 9 woofers produce same effect as a round woofer would . I just found this vid seeing im a 2dr also I like the look better than in rear hatch or under seat whats yoyr thoughts ?....
Generally speaking, subwoofers will produce lower notes at higher volumes than a typical 6x9. But, if you have a high quality 6x9, in a well-built enclosure with good airspace for that speaker, you may get really good results.
The problem I have with 6x9 or any other coaxial, triaxial car speakers is that when it comes to low notes, the woofer part of that speaker is also having to reproduce a great deal of the midrange as well. Thus, they often sound "muddy" and can lack the crispness of using a dedicated sub and taking the low note duties off of your other speakers.
My opinion would be that if you have a stereo with a dedicated sub output that has some adjustability, leverage it and use a dedicated sub. You could do a mix of the two approaches and put two 6" or 8" inch subs in the sides where the other guy put his 6x9's. Then you can keep the front door and rear speakers in place.
Last edited by macgyver35; Nov 11, 2014 at 06:48 PM.
