1991Jeep_Man

Looking to the advice of the sound system inclined. Hopefully soon will be replacing the Sony aged headunit in my '91 with a touch screen unit that drops down (have that all figurdededed out).

I want to swap some 5.25 speakers in the rear doors, same as in the fronts. I also have the 6x9's swapped in the back hatch.

My question is, what's the best way to wire these rear door speakers? Should I tap into the front door speaker wires? Hatch speaker wires? I also eventually want to get the cubby sub box for the rear and install a 10" sub (the sound system in my Veloster Turbo has made me crave it in the Jeep!). I know any sub will need an amp. I've never wired in amps or subs, but apparently speakers can be wired to amps. What is it: one channel per speaker? 6-channel amps are WAY too much for a cheap Jeep...

School me gurus! What's the best approach here? Thanks!

Firestorm500

8" sub is the biggest the XJ Pod will accept. You need to get one that is shallow draft.

freegdr

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-4AYCN6bwMwE/

crabmushrooms5

Run new wire from the head unit to any new speakers. Sounds like you want 6 speakers total then a sub. Not sure if anyone makes a 6 channel amp. Google crutchfield subwoofer wiring diagrams for sub wiring. Do 4 6.5" speakers with 4 10" subs, second battery, big 3 upgrade(Google), and mean green alternator. oh and two or three amps

crabmushrooms5

And of course quality brands with a quality head unit (the brain). Holy Moly they do make 6ch amps. Your only going to get what about 18w rms per "+,-" wire, from the head unit, if you're lucky. Tapping into one set should cut that in half in my mind. Wait for taxtime?

Firestorm500

Boombox on wheels.

cliffy

Parallel the left doors and the right doors, parallel circuits decrease current draw. Theory only.

jay_sco

My advice...only run some quality speakers in the front and rear doors. Anything you run in the rear hatch will be muffled by any cargo and distorted by the sub. The door speakers should be fine powered by the HU alone which has 4 outputs, and if you want to go the extra step get separate components (5.25 mid and pod tweeters) for the doors. I've had vehicles with 800w going to 2 12"s, and another with 600w going to 3 10"s, never needed an amp for the door speakers. Make sure to get a HU with a sub output which most decent ones have. Do some research on amps, there are 1 channel or you can run mono on most 2 channel amps. Running multiple subs off one channel is also possible, but be aware of ohm ratings and changes when doing so. Also research the enclosure type for what you listen to. Band pass and ported give huge, deep bass (rap). Sealed give a tighter sound and quicker response (rock). Use good wire and connectors, no point in dropping coin on great pieces to cut the power by running small wire.

crabmushrooms5

Sub wiring diagrams (comprehensive pick and choose)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-0ugZZ6k...rs_wiring.html

Go with a dvc sub (dual voice coil) 4 ohm and bridge a class D mono amp.

Usually good prices at sonic electronix but still shop around http://www.sonicelectronix.com

For matching subs and amps, amplifinder http://www.sonicelectronix.com/Matching-Subwoofers-Amps

Make sure to find out what the recommended enclosure size is for the sub(s) you choose. .7-1.5 cubic feet or something sealed or ported.

You could probably put a jl audio 8 in the xj sub cubby you want to get.

aj2494

Not really true, in fact it's the opposite. Wiring in parallel reduces resistance for car speakers or any other resistor with a value over 1 ohm. But since V=IR and V is constant, lowering R increases I, or the current of the circuit.

Off of a head unit, I would not wire in parallel. You run the risk of the ruining the head unit that way and won't get the sound you want. Now if you're amping and using the RCA outputs of an aftermarket head unit, there are ways of getting around this, but it really depends on the amps and speakers. And yes, it's one channel per speaker, with the exception of subwoofers. For example, a head unit with 6 pre amp channels has 6 RCA plugs on the back. One for each speaker and then two for the subwoofer. 5-channel amps are kind of lying with their names and are the exception to this rule, since the "5th channel" will have two RCA inputs/outputs for one single sub.

My suggestion is to ditch your rear speakers all together. Rear fill honestly isn't necessary in a car environment and is actually frowned upon in many cases. You can get a lot better sound if you take the money you would have spent on the four speakers for the rear and use it on the front stage. You can either get a component set that has mids and tweeters with a passive crossover or do the preferred option of buying separate mids and tweeters and then using a 4-channel amp to power them. A passive crossover sends only the lower frequencies to the mids and the higher frequencies to the tweeters, but the signals that are filtered out are dispersed in the form of heat and therefore waste power. For the preferred setup using an amp or active crossover to control the signals you would need:

1. Head unit with 6 pre-amp channels (the most common setup)
2. 2 tweeters
3. 2 midwoofers
4. A 4-channel amp that has high and low pass filters built in (I'm using a PPI P900.4 on mine, which is available for less than $200, but I paid half that for mine used)
5. A monoblock amp for the sub
6. And a sub. You want a dual voice coil sub, which is the most common now. Resistance of the coils depends on how much power you want, and really should be figured out later since most subs come in either 2 or 4 ohm configurations

You could run a single 5-channel amp, but it's been my experience that there aren't many affordable options with enough power for the sub. Again, this depends on how much power you want your sub to get. I would also caution against jumping on the brand name bandwagon. Polk, JL, etc. are all good, but you pay a ton for the name. Die-hard audio guys avoid those names like the plague since there are much better options (cheaper too) that most people have never heard of.

To be blunt, those select increments pods aren't very good. They have ~.4 cu. ft volume, and when you put a sub in there to take up even more air space, they have very minimal output and the sound quality isn't great. I've never had one myself, but they are generally frowned upon. Talk to a local shop about building you one. I just had a shop quote me $200 out the door for a 3/4" MDF enclosure with .75 cu. ft volume, carpeted and everything. It's a much better option using way better materials and goes in the exact same spot as those pods do. There was a guy on here building them but I would not go to him. He just completely shafted me, blatantly lied about the volume and charged me over $100 more than the local shop quoted me.

I know this is a lot to absorb, but let us know if you have any questions, which you will.

rusty_bucket

my 91 dosnt have speakers in the rear door, am I missing something?

aj2494

No, the OP is talking about sticking some in the rear doors. There's actually a nice spot for them if I recall correctly.

soocom1

An added point on all of this.
Watch the current draw.




Too many components will overload the power supply.
Think of using a line to a power distribution box if you go high end.


As someone who use to play this game, remember that sound will only work when the system is up to par.


Auto Wall insulation helps, sound mats, etc will improve the overall sound of the system.


The use of strategically placed tweeters and several (what use to be called whizzers) now mid range and single cone at that properly cross-overed will make the system have cleaner white noise and pink noise.


http://www.sweetwater.com/insync/pin...s-white-noise/


But remember the Jeep (unlike certain sports cars) were not designed to be sound studios. Another consideration is to play the BMW game and put a couple of high end mid-range under the seats.


This will improve overall produced dynamic range.