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Hey guys, I got a 98 xj sport with just the rubicon express short arm 3.5 lift with add a leaf in back.
Crappy pro comp oil shocks with like 100k on them lol.
AT tires 31s about half worn with about 30psi feels however like I got 100 psi
Someone told me it looks like my shocks are bad because the tire looks to be skipping in wear......hard to explain......but I assume they are bad anyways because they are old as hell lol
so, going up a curb and such or speed bumps doesn’t feel too bad, but hitting a small pot hole, tiny bumps or cracks, it’s like 💥 BAM YOUR NECK BROKE AND YOUR EYES POPPED OUT AND YOU CRAPPED YOURSELF.
so anyways,I figured the shocks being bad would make it more bouncy and flowy........no?
so what other bushings and or parts am I looking at, along with shocks?
I literally do have a neck issue and this is killin me, the weather is finally better so I can get back to working on this thing.
Start with the shocks. I will bet the rubber bushings on the shocks are worn in addition to shocks being beyond life. Worn shock mount bushings allows the body to move some before it encounters resistance from the shock. That could be the jolt you are feeling on small bumps. It is likely clanging also. A 3.5" add a leaf will not give you a great ride to begin with and it tends to over stress the leaf springs. Check if any of the rear leaf mount bolts, leaf eye bushings or rear shackle bushings look worn. Look for broken leafs.
Start with the shocks. I will bet the rubber bushings on the shocks are worn in addition to shocks being beyond life. Worn shock mount bushings allows the body to move some before it encounters resistance from the shock. That could be the jolt you are feeling on small bumps. It is likely clanging also. A 3.5" add a leaf will not give you a great ride to begin with and it tends to over stress the leaf springs. Check if any of the rear leaf mount bolts, leaf eye bushings or rear shackle bushings look worn. Look for broken leafs.
ill check the leaf pack, im sagging in the back but the leafs are not flat yet, im hoping to get an entire new pack soon.
As soon as the front tires hit something thoughts its BAMMO! lol
Appreciate your tips bud.
Im being told i should get some rubicon gas shocks that are about 75 each........was hoping for cheaper but i guess it is what it is.
Shocks won't change it that drastically. I chased this rabbit and ultimately it took control arm drop brackets, softer 4.5" RE coils and shackle relocation kit for the rear before I finally got a nice ride without the jarring you are talking about.
RE 3.5" coils are 240# spring rate, stock is ~150#, RE 4.5" are 184#. Stiff coils plus steep control arm angles are the biggest contributor to the harshness you are feeling.
Shocks won't change it that drastically. I chased this rabbit and ultimately it took control arm drop brackets, softer 4.5" RE coils and shackle relocation kit for the rear before I finally got a nice ride without the jarring you are talking about.
RE 3.5" coils are 240# spring rate, stock is ~150#, RE 4.5" are 184#. Stiff coils plus steep control arm angles are the biggest contributor to the harshness you are feeling.
X2, with the Rubicon Express 3.5" coils and an add a leaf you drastically stiffened your springs while also making the geometry less efficient at transferring energy into the springs.
I'd be chasing:
-control arm bushings
leaf spring/shackle bushings
-coil spring isolaters
-maybe shocks but you will likely not get the difference you're looking for
and once you're certain the issue does not lie there then consider:
-control arm drop brackets (will make the biggest difference).
-lighter weight front springs
-shackle angle (is it vertical or 45 degrees? Might need shackle relocation brackets)
-lighter weight rear springs
My Jeep used to ride like that when I had a 3.5" RE lift. Literally could drive over a crack in the road at 15 mph and it would feel like there was no suspension. Could feel it in my teeth. I ultimately ended up going to long arms but I remember it being pretty bad.
Just so you guys are clear though, I’ve had this lift for about 100k miles. It’s been stiff yeah, but only last 6 months has been doing the knock my head off jaring feeling.
The difference in what we have described and what you have had is drastically different.
If you have been satisfied for this long then your shocks and tires(guessing they are worn in) are likely the difference you have experienced. The RE monotube shocks are made by Bilstein and are supposed to be valved for the XJ. They should feel nice with what you have and even better if you do the upgrades suggested.
Tire pressure plays a bug role in how the ride feels. A larger tire usually requires less pressure to achieve a proper contact patch.
The difference in what we have described and what you have had is drastically different.
If you have been satisfied for this long then your shocks and tires(guessing they are worn in) are likely the difference you have experienced. The RE monotube shocks are made by Bilstein and are supposed to be valved for the XJ. They should feel nice with what you have and even better if you do the upgrades suggested.
Tire pressure plays a bug role in how the ride feels. A larger tire usually requires less pressure to achieve a proper contact patch.
yeah thats why i wanted to clarify the roughness is more recent.
I keep hearing about thise shocks, but they are gas shocks right?
rSome people are telling me the gas monotube ones are what i want versus mh oil shocks, others are saying they will ride rough to stick with oil shocks.....
now what do i do lmao, i wanna buy the shocks today.
Just so you guys are clear though, I’ve had this lift for about 100k miles. It’s been stiff yeah, but only last 6 months has been doing the knock my head off jaring feeling.
With over 100,000 miles on your lift, there is a big list of parts could be worn enough to screw up the ride. You need to fully checkout the front suspension and steering, looking for loose parts.
At this mileage, the shocks are probably gone too. Over the last 17 years, I have run various Bilstein and OEM shocks and, for less expensive shocks, I like the Old Man Emu shocks, finding the Bilstein 5100s to be harsh.
For a lot better ride, upgraded shocks are a good choice, My 2001 XJ now runs Bilstein 5165s and has a plusher ride. The 1997 has 5100s and rides much stiffer, when the Jeep is empty.
Dropped brackets will smooth the ride considerably.
With over 100,000 miles on your lift, there is a big list of parts could be worn enough to screw up the ride. You need to fully checkout the front suspension and steering, looking for loose parts.
At this mileage, the shocks are probably gone too. Over the last 17 years, I have run various Bilstein and OEM shocks and, for less expensive shocks, I like the Old Man Emu shocks, finding the Bilstein 5100s to be harsh.
For a lot better ride, upgraded shocks are a good choice, My 2001 XJ now runs Bilstein 5165s and has a plusher ride. The 1997 has 5100s and rides much stiffer, when the Jeep is empty.
Dropped brackets will smooth the ride considerably.
control arm drop brackets. i liked the Rubicon Express brand of drop brackets. maybe because i'm partial to RE...
best pic i could find that would upload. sure they cost 300 bux, but they are worth every penny. almost makes your jeep ride like it's on long arms.
i rode with these on my RE 5.5 inch extreme duty kit for about 8 years before i went long arm. didn't really notice much of a difference in rideability either.
control arm drop brackets. i liked the Rubicon Express brand of drop brackets. maybe because i'm partial to RE...
best pic i could find that would upload. sure they cost 300 bux, but they are worth every penny. almost makes your jeep ride like it's on long arms.
i rode with these on my RE 5.5 inch extreme duty kit for about 8 years before i went long arm. didn't really notice much of a difference in rideability either.
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Let's not forget, frame rot or damage. Nothing makes it feel like it's falling apart more than a weak frame. Break out the welder and some 1/4" stock and stitch weld.