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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 04:18 PM
  #16  
93XJLI's Avatar
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From: LI, NY
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You need to budget for air bumps on all four corners and at the minimum a real 2.0 shock with remote resi per corner.
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 07:39 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 93XJLI
You need to budget for air bumps on all four corners and at the minimum a real 2.0 shock with remote resi per corner.
I just saw the rules say no bump stops. Lol. That rule is crappy.
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 08:02 PM
  #18  
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Uhhh...
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 08:11 PM
  #19  
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I understand no air bumps or such, I guess. But you really need some kind of bumpstop, even stock vehicles have them, to prevent shock damage. I would say prothane's then.
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 08:15 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by LawDog9
I just saw the rules say no bump stops. Lol. That rule is crappy.
no air bumps? thats fine, use prothanes.

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=985677
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 09:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 93XJLI

no air bumps? thats fine, use prothanes.

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=985677
Nice! A newb question tho. It's 19" from top mount to bottom mount. My shocks are 23" fully extended and 12" compressed. I'm buying the bilsteins with reservoirs. If I replace both my top oem bump stops and add bottom bumps stops in front as well what lengths should the top and bottom bump stops be?
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 10:24 PM
  #22  
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From: Carrollton, GA
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Originally Posted by LawDog9

Nice! A newb question tho. It's 19" from top mount to bottom mount. My shocks are 23" fully extended and 12" compressed. I'm buying the bilsteins with reservoirs. If I replace both my top oem bump stops and add bottom bumps stops in front as well what lengths should the top and bottom bump stops be?
Pretty close if you're on stock coils and are jumping. I also wouldn't spend money even on bilsteins... You're gonna keep breaking things so I would just go back to a white body, or a RC 2.2
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 11:07 PM
  #23  
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From: La Habra, CA
Year: 1988
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
I also wouldn't spend money even on bilsteins... You're gonna keep breaking things so I would just go back to a white body, or a RC 2.2
wtf kind of logic is that? why keep buying something that you know is going to break when you can spend a little extra money on something that will hold out longer and perform 100x better?


thats like saying "i know im gonna break u joints running 35s on my stock dana 30, so i'll just keep throwing junkyard shafts in there"


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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 11:25 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by CheapCherokee

wtf kind of logic is that? why keep buying something that you know is going to break when you can spend a little extra money on something that will hold out longer and perform 100x better?

thats like saying "i know im gonna break u joints running 35s on my stock dana 30, so i'll just keep throwing junkyard shafts in there"

Find his other thread about ring and pinions. He is jumping this rig on stock suspension and nothing is done to the axle as far as a truss or anything to beef it up. Doesn't sound like he is going to take the money dedicated to do it all correctly at once-read this thread- so why spend "waste" the money on a part you are going to keep replacing.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 07:10 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94

Find his other thread about ring and pinions. He is jumping this rig on stock suspension and nothing is done to the axle as far as a truss or anything to beef it up. Doesn't sound like he is going to take the money dedicated to do it all correctly at once-read this thread- so why spend "waste" the money on a part you are going to keep replacing.
Before the next race i am going to be trussing, putting new Bilsteins with reservoirs on and other stuff. Btw. I'm not on oem springs. I'm running grand cherokee coils which is a little stiffer. But not much. Lol.
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