Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:41 PM
  #16  
muffinman's Avatar
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From: Johnson County, Kansas
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Mine is still a LONG way out. I am slowly gathering parts and still driving it with the 4.0 till I get everything I need. jbsjunk might have got done faster then I do!
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:44 PM
  #17  
xj_maniac_newb's Avatar
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From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
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Originally Posted by muffinman
Her is some other stuff I have built. So yea I mean a REAL 383, lol. And great minds to think alike.https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f53/69-camaro-114900/
Thats a hell of a nice ride. Looks like you wont have much of a problem with that engine swap. You plan on going with a carb setup on the jeep?
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 03:26 PM
  #18  
muffinman's Avatar
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From: Johnson County, Kansas
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Will probably go with a carb to start with. Will change to msd or howell or some kind of aftermarket efi sometime. We just moved from Colorado where I would never even think about running it with a carb but down here in the flat lands it should be ok.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 03:42 PM
  #19  
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From: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by xj_maniac_newb

If you're going with a 383 (a true 383, like Aljay said with 6" rods and not 5.7's) then you better just toss that 231 and start looking for a D300. And invest in some front to back frame stiffeners.

And speaking of 383's..

Great minds think alike.
6in rod has nothing to do making it a real 383 only difference between 5.7 rod and 6in rod is placement of the wristpin there is advantages going either way. I run a 6in rod in my 383 after doing it kinda wish it was 5.7 rod to get it a touch farther from the oil ring but thats because its a nitrous motor but anyway ya rod makes no difference
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 03:51 PM
  #20  
xj_maniac_newb's Avatar
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From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
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Originally Posted by Nathan9Mile
6in rod has nothing to do making it a real 383 only difference between 5.7 rod and 6in rod is placement of the wristpin there is advantages going either way. I run a 6in rod in my 383 after doing it kinda wish it was 5.7 rod to get it a touch farther from the oil ring but thats because its a nitrous motor but anyway ya rod makes no difference
Makes a good bit of difference in power considering the 383 kits with 5.7" rods are usually sold as the entry level kits and come with a cast crank while those with the 6" rods often always come with a forged bottom end. That's a big difference when you're talking about buying a kit.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 04:03 PM
  #21  
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From: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Model: Cherokee
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Using a six inch rod you end up with a little lighter piston, which is good for keeping a lighter rotating assembly one downfall is you now have a shorter skirt on the piston. I run a 6in fully forged bottom end motor you can buy kits either way 5.7 or 6in. Never seen any documented proof showing a 6in rod will make more power and it doesn't make it anymore a 383 then a 5.7 rod. If you really wanna spend money you can go 6.125in rod. I was only correcting the statement that u need a 6in rod to make a real 383. As long as its a 350 block bored 30over with a 3.75stroke crank you have a real 383
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 04:09 PM
  #22  
xj_maniac_newb's Avatar
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From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
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Originally Posted by Nathan9Mile
Using a six inch rod you end up with a little lighter piston, which is good for keeping a lighter rotating assembly one downfall is you now have a shorter skirt on the piston. I run a 6in fully forged bottom end motor you can buy kits either way 5.7 or 6in. Never seen any documented proof showing a 6in rod will make more power and it doesn't make it anymore a 383 then a 5.7 rod. If you really wanna spend money you can go 6.125in rod. I was only correcting the statement that u need a 6in rod to make a real 383. As long as its a 350 block bored 30over with a 3.75stroke crank you have a real 383
I'll agree with that, Upon further research I found its not that dire of a thing. My mistake. However I still would want to go with a forged bottom end to leave room for more horsepower in the future.. Thats the only regret my buddy had in buying his camaro. The LT1 got a 383 entry level kit with a cast crank, so now a twin turbo setup is too much of a risk to put on the motor.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 04:14 PM
  #23  
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From: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Model: Cherokee
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I just didnt want anyone getting confused. Honestly if it was me and your building it for a xj i would not waste the money on forged stuff unless your going power adder nitrous turbo or supercharger ect. Some nice eagle cast crank rods and decent pistons is all you need and will live to some high horsepower more then any xj needs anyway. Just my 2cents
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