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question about getting jeep water ready

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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 10:02 PM
  #1  
1998xjspt's Avatar
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From: Orlando/Winter Garden
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Arrow question about getting jeep water ready

im wanting to see if you guys could possibly educate me on what connections i would have to waterproof (dielectric grease) in order to be able to drive across headlight deep water. i know about the cowl snorkel, relocating alternator, and rtv scilicon around distributor, but what other things would i need to protect in order to keep my motor and other things from failure during a crossing or deep water hole?. thanks for any help!!
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 11:59 PM
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JerrytheJeep's Avatar
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From: San Jose
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Basically every connection you can find. There are a few people here who suggest using it in a similar fashion as rtv to keep water out, not form a waterproof connection. Get a good goop around the edge of each connector and put em back together. You're also going to need to consider something for your intake to get it up and away from the water.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 12:07 AM
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Factory connections re usually pretty waterproof unless the rubber is gone. Never hurts to die electric grease.

I have had the entire fuse box under water. No problems. Corrosion is the only thing you have to worry about. Water it self wont short anything out except the coils, distributor, plug wires. Other than that your fine.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 12:10 AM
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
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Make sure you extend your breather hoses. Also put a breather hose on the distributor.
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 08:36 AM
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How do you put a breather hose on the distributor tho?
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 08:49 AM
  #6  
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by andrewmp6
How do you put a breather hose on the distributor tho?
http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoBreatherExtensions.htm
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 07:43 PM
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From: Clover, S.C.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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If your jeep has an automatic transmission, you'll want to make sure to extend the breather. Mine has no hose at all (AW4)
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 05:34 PM
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From: Orlando/Winter Garden
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alright, i plan on doing the whole cowl snorkel thing and i know there are 1000001 connections under a cherokee hood. i just wanted to make sure which ones are a must to keep your motor on and running, thanks caveman, i was really wondering about the computer, cause u can have the baddest snorkel ever made, if ur computer dies then ur ****ed.
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 05:37 PM
  #9  
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From: Orlando/Winter Garden
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by buckshot500
If your jeep has an automatic transmission, you'll want to make sure to extend the breather. Mine has no hose at all (AW4)
yeah i was wondering about this..not on how to lengthen..just how to get to the breather tube. my breather hoses go into the frame and theree kinda fixed on it. idk if i should just yank em out, which doesnt seem like the best thing to do...how do i get the entire breather tube out the frame?
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 07:57 PM
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Year: 2000
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Exp the throttle control sensor most cheaply made pos I've ever had to deal with get that thing wet and all kinds of problems tell it drys out I superglued all the seams on mine and coated it in dielectric Greece after it was installed no problems for a year now
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 06:47 PM
  #11  
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From: Clover, S.C.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by 1998xjspt
yeah i was wondering about this..not on how to lengthen..just how to get to the breather tube. my breather hoses go into the frame and theree kinda fixed on it. idk if i should just yank em out, which doesnt seem like the best thing to do...how do i get the entire breather tube out the frame?
I have never taken any out of the frame. My 1998 XJ has an AW4 with the stock breather. This is a short stem with a cap like top on it. just like an axle breather on a car. I think it is threaded in with 1/8" pipe thread. I have seen people remove the little cap and put the hose on the stem. I still need to do mine, and hope to unthread it and replace it with a brass hose barb.

As for the hoses in the frame, you can always disconnect them at the item, (T-case, axle, trans) and redo the entire hose up to where you decide will be above the high water mark.
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