WHITE_STALLION

I have a 96 jeep cherokee n I have a 4 inch lift. I have 33s on it now, n I just got 40x16.50r17 tires. So how much of a lift am I gonna have to go? N what else am I gonna have to do to it?

wiggles

You could do it with the lift you have now you would just have A LOT of cutting to do. I would put tons under it and definitely need different gears I'd say something in the 5.xx range. If you want to do minimal cutting you would probably have to go upwards of 8 or 9 inches. You are probably looking at a bunch of work to get this done but I would love to see it!

Char92dj8

what axles are you going to be running, stock?!?!

RockStarATL

i'm about to begin my build on my xj on 40s as well as another members xj. we are going 3/4+ axles on his and 1 tons on mine. LA's upfront of course and 4 link rear...so if you need someone to fabricate you a lift to clear 40s just give me a shout

COSXJFAN

Moved, this is not fab...

ct67_72

yep, gonna have to worry a lot more than just about lift to run 40's. even if you only wanted to drive it on the street, there is no gear deep enough to run them on stock axles.
If you are actually doing it to wheel it. 1 tons will be necessary, i.e. dana 60 front, 14 bolt, dana 70 rear etc.
5.38 gears would get you right about stock.

_StationWagon_

Well you took the words right outta my ... welll ... my keyboard.

I'm thinking he needs to do a lot more reading/research/planning if all he's asking about is lift when he wants to run 40s.

ericfx1984

there is a guy on here (FreeGRD???) that runs stock axles (30/35) and 38s he has a lot of rubbing at 10.5" of lift... and you are going to need long arms

you better be planning for 6" + of lift, lots of bump stopping, INSANE amounts of trimming.. and at least 4.56 gears (which would feel about like 35s on stock gears...)

I would get a corp 14 bolt chevy axle (full width) and a dana 60 front (ford axle as you need drivers side drop)

then get some good auto lockers (front and rear)

weld all your mounts and perches onto the new axles

you will need some custom steering too

Hoooper

mogs axle swap, good amounts of fender trimming, comp cut, 3" lift, etc...

On stock axles, you wont need any lift really, once you put in in drive and hit the gas the axles will disintegrate so who cares if they rub?

00jepxj

6.5 lift and lots of trimming will do it umm dana 30 will break the 8.25 will hold them open i am only saying this my friend has those axels with 36 13.5 welded spiders and will spin and bounch all over sticky rocks with out breaking his lift in like 4.5 crazy flex tho o ya and from exprince 4.11 or 4.56 is fine yu dont need to go crazy if yu have back up parts

brookhart63

After trying to comprehend what that said, I decided you should stop talking because your giving terrible advice. Your telling me that your "friend" has welded spiders on a cryco 8.25 with stock shafts and 36 inch tires? And you don't think that maybe even if this was true the extra 4 inches wouldn't matter? Personally I wouldn't run 40's on anything less than d 60's. 4.11's? Are you serious? OP do A LOT more research before you attempt this.

baxj89

I run 38s with a 6 in lift and u will have to do A LOT OF CUTTING I'm also on the stock 30 35 with yukon axels all the way around and 456 gears its just strickly a trail rig and holds up fine to my abuse

nutter

I run 39.5s and im lifted 6 inches and cut all to hell and still rub on full width axles.

nutter

I run a 14-bolt rear and a 1-ton 44 front with chevy outers and chromo shafts. I run a stock automatic and 231 case and i have 4.11 gears in the diffs. I love my gearing just the way it is. i can crawl and i can still do 70 mph if i want. The first thing i would do if i were you is brace the living hell out of ur whole unibody most important area is the steering box thats what i had the most problems with the unibody cant handle the tire weight or the extra leverage from the tires beeing out so much farther. The secound thing i would do is when you build ur front controll arms run them all the way back to the cross member it makes all ur geomitry perfect. Also try to run ur upper arms or arm just as far back thats what i did and it works awesome. One peice of advice i can give you is that if you leeve the rear leaf sprung its handling will be much more controllable and stable. I built a cj5 and three linked the rear and left the front leafed and it worked great then i decided to link the front and it unloaded really bad on side hills it drove like **** on the road and lacked stability. I live in washington i run rocks sand trails you name it and a well rounded rig built for all worlds is what i built and i love it. I will post some pics of how i did some of my build so you can get ideas. Good luck man and hit me up if you got any questions.

MUDRUNNER AZ

I am running 4.88 and 36 in iroks detroit rear bolt in d35 detroit true trac d30 front and have for many years with minimal probs. but the d60 rear is going in this weekend with 5.38 detroit. as far as lift i have about 10 to 10.5 or so 8 in coils and acos with bushwackers and get a slight rub in the rear. 40 will be a lot of cutting.