Look at the Clayton Long Arm kit many run his setup on here and well pleased with it from what I see. If doing a short arm you will need adj u/lca's.


Yes you will need an SYE/Drive Shaft combo and rebuilding both shafts front and rear if you don't but a new rear.


I started with the Rustys 3" kit ($479) while saving all the money required to go up to 4 1/2" and do it right (about $5-6k) in extra parts gears, lockers, sye, ect. a lot of it lol. Increasing the lift I used 1 1/2" Boomerang Shackles with ACOS adj. spacers up front. With the setup it still flex's quite well off road with the SB disconnected.

 

So with that being a 3 link wouldn't I need to do 6.5 of lift? I would rather have a 3 link la then radius arms. Thank you for some solid advice

 

you should be able to run it at 5.5" no problem. I'm sure if you call and ask them they'll tell you no because of liability. the 3 link itself has nothing to do with lift height, the length of the arms determines lift height (in a bolt-on scenario)


3 link vs radius arm depends on how frisky you plan on getting with the steep hill climbs and off cambers. if you plan on getting really crazy with it then yeah, 3 link for the win. but even for difficult wheeling the radius arm will work great. they just unload on VERY steep obstacles (like bury your rear bumper into the ground staring at nothing but blue sky steep). and even then it's not bad unloading, the front end just gets a little light


don't be afraid to go radius if you want to keep extra $ in your pocket

 

I think I would be fine with radius arms then since I'm not into rock crawling really I rather hit a little mud and some moderate trails

 

Once I check the jeep next week I'm going to check if I have the 8.25 or Dana 35 in the rear of the 8.25 with a 92 if I remember right they have 27 splines and its recommended to go with 97+ 8.25 with 29 spline. Then I'm going to truss the Dana 30 and budget for all that