New XJ owner
SO, tried to get tires balanced but local rageedy shop I went to was not so great 90$ and bad balance and only toe in out alignment later, some things seem better some seem worse. I have a pic of the alignment screen, I will try to post it when I get home from work. I have read I need to check trck bar bolts and tork to specs. Ball joins seem good. i am not sure what else to check.
So popping sound when turning. Not track bar. My steering box has 3 bolts (good) one is covered in like 50 washers (bad) the other 2 I bet need to be re torqued. My question is what are the specs for the bolts. I need at least one new one.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
When you replace the bolts make sure the frame isn't cracked behind the gear box and the cheesy spacer is still intact.
Type: Bolt Dim: Length: Head: Hexagon Grade:
65 Ft-Lbs
780 In-Lbs
88.13 N-m
Connects: Steering Gear To Frame
Years: All Vote Record: Vote
Note: XJ - Steering Gear Mounting Bolts
Type: Bolt Dim: Length: Head: Hexagon Grade:
65 Ft-Lbs
780 In-Lbs
88.13 N-m
Connects: Steering Gear To Frame
Years: All Vote Record: Vote
Note: XJ - Steering Gear Mounting Bolts
lowrange is the a gear box strengthening kit thing for sale you recommend? I think I have seen a few backing plate type things that look like they mount like washers between the bolt and the unibody
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
I asked in the Houston meetup group, but I am having a hard time finding a 4x4 friendly shop to align my Cherokee. Any suggestions on what to ask or how to find a shop with shims and a clue? Low range.
No help on the alignment Low range? Sad clown. I do not want to hear about how you have a life or were busy you live to serve me no? I am a riot today.
I ordered the JCoffroad steering backing plate. I I think I need to find a better shop to get it aligned. I plan on putting on the plate as soon as I can. I hope it ends the popping and cracking when I turn the steering wheel. I had to replace my alternator yesterday so I also replaced my belt. I know the alternator I replaced was not very old, it had an O'rileiy part number on it. Is there a problem to track down that would cause the alternator to fail prematurely.
Has anyone taken the door apart to work on the power windows? And the power mirrors? The driver side door control will only move the mirror up and down not side to side and the window will not go down.
Anyone and Lowrange, I need new shackles, I am not looking for any additional lift, I just want some new steel for the rusty old junk I have back there now. When I ordered leaf springs I got new poly grease able bushing for the shackles, does anyone make a shackle that is stock height that does not come with bushings? If I just buy OEM ones can I push out the rubber shackle with a press?
I have searched but I often do not know what I am looking for.
p.s. alternator change is really easy.
I ordered the JCoffroad steering backing plate. I I think I need to find a better shop to get it aligned. I plan on putting on the plate as soon as I can. I hope it ends the popping and cracking when I turn the steering wheel. I had to replace my alternator yesterday so I also replaced my belt. I know the alternator I replaced was not very old, it had an O'rileiy part number on it. Is there a problem to track down that would cause the alternator to fail prematurely.
Has anyone taken the door apart to work on the power windows? And the power mirrors? The driver side door control will only move the mirror up and down not side to side and the window will not go down.
Anyone and Lowrange, I need new shackles, I am not looking for any additional lift, I just want some new steel for the rusty old junk I have back there now. When I ordered leaf springs I got new poly grease able bushing for the shackles, does anyone make a shackle that is stock height that does not come with bushings? If I just buy OEM ones can I push out the rubber shackle with a press?
I have searched but I often do not know what I am looking for.
p.s. alternator change is really easy.
So alignment, the front wheels are pointing straight. I had a guy wit a computer aim them. I also figured out the drag link thingy because after I installed the steering box brace and new bolts my wheel was at like 10 o'clock. I am trying to figure out what needs to be done to change the angle on the lower control arms (I think that is what they are called.) Also I am back to tire choices. I have a good solid 2" lift (OME love it) and I think I want to put 31's on it. Are we sure they will fit?
Also so I guess my real question is, T-Case drop? should I put one in there is a little vibe at speed in my steering column.
Also so I guess my real question is, T-Case drop? should I put one in there is a little vibe at speed in my steering column.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
Sorry, must have missed your previous posts somehow.
Vibs in the steering column are usually related to the steering components rather than driveline vibs. I'd bet those will go away when you get your new tires.
What needs to change about your LCA angle? Bad caster angle? At 2"s it should be really close to stock. What'd it end up being with the newest alignment. I usually try to run about 5-7* of castor. You can adjust castor some with stock adjusters or you can buy adjustable arms. At 2"s I don't think that's necessary.
At 2"s I wouldn't fool with a t-case drop.
31's will fit with some minor trimming. Are you still running stock wheels? A narrow tire would fit ok. A 30" tire would come closer to fitting with no trimming.
Vibs in the steering column are usually related to the steering components rather than driveline vibs. I'd bet those will go away when you get your new tires.
What needs to change about your LCA angle? Bad caster angle? At 2"s it should be really close to stock. What'd it end up being with the newest alignment. I usually try to run about 5-7* of castor. You can adjust castor some with stock adjusters or you can buy adjustable arms. At 2"s I don't think that's necessary.
At 2"s I wouldn't fool with a t-case drop.
31's will fit with some minor trimming. Are you still running stock wheels? A narrow tire would fit ok. A 30" tire would come closer to fitting with no trimming.
Last edited by Lowrange2; Oct 27, 2012 at 11:21 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 1
From: Warren, Pa
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by lowrange2
Sorry, must have missed your previous posts somehow.
Vibs in the steering column are usually related to the steering components rather than driveline vibs. I'd bet those will go away when you get your new tires.
What needs to change about your LCA angle? Bad caster angle? At 2"s it should be really close to stock. What'd it end up being with the newest alignment. I usually try to run about 5-7* of castor. You can adjust castor some with stock adjusters or you can buy adjustable arms. At 2"s I don't think that's necessary.
At 2"s I wouldn't fool with a t-case drop.
31's will fit with some minor trimming. Are you still running stock wheels? A narrow tire would fit ok. A 30" tire would come closer to fitting with no trimming.
Vibs in the steering column are usually related to the steering components rather than driveline vibs. I'd bet those will go away when you get your new tires.
What needs to change about your LCA angle? Bad caster angle? At 2"s it should be really close to stock. What'd it end up being with the newest alignment. I usually try to run about 5-7* of castor. You can adjust castor some with stock adjusters or you can buy adjustable arms. At 2"s I don't think that's necessary.
At 2"s I wouldn't fool with a t-case drop.
31's will fit with some minor trimming. Are you still running stock wheels? A narrow tire would fit ok. A 30" tire would come closer to fitting with no trimming.
I am running Stock steel wheels. I have a set of after market ally wheels, I need to swap out. My steel ones are warped a little so hard to get balanced exactly. I have found 31's are more common in stock, than 30's or the 265's.
As too the shim. I do not think I need new control arms I am just chasing down a little steering wheel vibration. I spent a long time driving yesterday on the Freeway, longest drive on Freeway so far and just chasing down the weak spot.
One more bump for OME 2" lift kit
As too the shim. I do not think I need new control arms I am just chasing down a little steering wheel vibration. I spent a long time driving yesterday on the Freeway, longest drive on Freeway so far and just chasing down the weak spot.
One more bump for OME 2" lift kit
Has anyone rebuilt the steering gear box. I am talking about the seal kit thingy for the part of the gear box where the pitman arm connects. I saw a post or a build thread about it. I think mine is leaking a little and if I have to take it off and put it back on any way. I would rather rebuild mine.
Also, my passenger window will not go down. Is it pretty common for the motor to go out? also my passenger mirror only moves in 2 directions not 4
Also, my passenger window will not go down. Is it pretty common for the motor to go out? also my passenger mirror only moves in 2 directions not 4


