Needing more rear clearance
This is the kit I'm running so it is springs and shackles springs are prolly old and saggy but will kinda give yall an idea of what I have! https://skyjacker.com/product.php?ProdID=35970
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Start with shackle relocators and longer shackles. IronmanFab4x4 has relocators that will buy you about another 1.5". That in combo with some JKS boomerang shackles will give you a bit more clearance, but still good flex and droop.
At 37's, you are pretty much at the limit of both of those axles. To go any bigger, not only will you DEFINITELY need to rework the exo, you will need to move up in axle sizes, too! (And honestly, I wouldn't waste money on the incremental increase a D44 is going to give you over your current setup!)
If it was my rig, I would throw on the truss to keep things in one piece, throw in a proper full case locker in the rear, and wheel the snot out of it. You would be amazed what that thing will do on 37's! With good line choices and smart use of the skinny pedal, you won't have any trouble keeping up with your big wheel friends (ask me how I know!
)
I just did the comp cut on mine last week cause the lower quarters were trashed.
2 things the video does NOT mention -
1) If you already have a rear bumper mounted, a worn down (i.e. 3") cut off disc will make the job of cutting WAY easier.
2) On the driver's side, you will need to unbolt the gas fill tub guard from the inside of the quarter, and then when you are done cutting and folding, you will need to bend the panel on the guard with the bolt holes up to lay flat against the bottom of the quarter and rebolt it with some self tappers.
At 37's, you are pretty much at the limit of both of those axles. To go any bigger, not only will you DEFINITELY need to rework the exo, you will need to move up in axle sizes, too! (And honestly, I wouldn't waste money on the incremental increase a D44 is going to give you over your current setup!)
If it was my rig, I would throw on the truss to keep things in one piece, throw in a proper full case locker in the rear, and wheel the snot out of it. You would be amazed what that thing will do on 37's! With good line choices and smart use of the skinny pedal, you won't have any trouble keeping up with your big wheel friends (ask me how I know!
I just did the comp cut on mine last week cause the lower quarters were trashed.
2 things the video does NOT mention -
1) If you already have a rear bumper mounted, a worn down (i.e. 3") cut off disc will make the job of cutting WAY easier.
2) On the driver's side, you will need to unbolt the gas fill tub guard from the inside of the quarter, and then when you are done cutting and folding, you will need to bend the panel on the guard with the bolt holes up to lay flat against the bottom of the quarter and rebolt it with some self tappers.
Thanks for the help and advice guys and yeah I figured I need to go bigger axles and I had already planned when I shaped was going to be a d60/9 from what I can tell that's what alot of ppl are running?
Start with shackle relocators and longer shackles. IronmanFab4x4 has relocators that will buy you about another 1.5". That in combo with some JKS boomerang shackles will give you a bit more clearance, but still good flex and droop.
At 37's, you are pretty much at the limit of both of those axles. To go any bigger, not only will you DEFINITELY need to rework the exo, you will need to move up in axle sizes, too! (And honestly, I wouldn't waste money on the incremental increase a D44 is going to give you over your current setup!)
If it was my rig, I would throw on the truss to keep things in one piece, throw in a proper full case locker in the rear, and wheel the snot out of it. You would be amazed what that thing will do on 37's! With good line choices and smart use of the skinny pedal, you won't have any trouble keeping up with your big wheel friends (ask me how I know!
)
I just did the comp cut on mine last week cause the lower quarters were trashed.
Bleepin' Jeep has a very good video
2 things the video does NOT mention -
1) If you already have a rear bumper mounted, a worn down (i.e. 3") cut off disc will make the job of cutting WAY easier.
2) On the driver's side, you will need to unbolt the gas fill tub guard from the inside of the quarter, and then when you are done cutting and folding, you will need to bend the panel on the guard with the bolt holes up to lay flat against the bottom of the quarter and rebolt it with some self tappers.
At 37's, you are pretty much at the limit of both of those axles. To go any bigger, not only will you DEFINITELY need to rework the exo, you will need to move up in axle sizes, too! (And honestly, I wouldn't waste money on the incremental increase a D44 is going to give you over your current setup!)
If it was my rig, I would throw on the truss to keep things in one piece, throw in a proper full case locker in the rear, and wheel the snot out of it. You would be amazed what that thing will do on 37's! With good line choices and smart use of the skinny pedal, you won't have any trouble keeping up with your big wheel friends (ask me how I know!
I just did the comp cut on mine last week cause the lower quarters were trashed.
Bleepin' Jeep has a very good video
2 things the video does NOT mention -
1) If you already have a rear bumper mounted, a worn down (i.e. 3") cut off disc will make the job of cutting WAY easier.
2) On the driver's side, you will need to unbolt the gas fill tub guard from the inside of the quarter, and then when you are done cutting and folding, you will need to bend the panel on the guard with the bolt holes up to lay flat against the bottom of the quarter and rebolt it with some self tappers.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 596
Likes: 7
From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
BleepinJeep has a ton of good how-to videos.
Link to all his YouTube videos http://bit.do/bleepinjeeps
Enjoy
Link to all his YouTube videos http://bit.do/bleepinjeeps
Enjoy
Last edited by bryweb; Apr 23, 2016 at 10:27 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 17
From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
To be truthful you really need a 14 bolt in the rear and a D60 in the front. What you have are pretty much maxed out with 35's and some will argue the 33's are max with a D30/Chy 8.25.
Full case locker in the rear for sure and a e Locker is fine in the front would be good for a while if you take it easy on the skinny pedal and watch your lines. It's all the items under the Jeep is where the major part of the cost of building one comes into play.
But like I said yours is a keeper and one I would build on for sure!
Full case locker in the rear for sure and a e Locker is fine in the front would be good for a while if you take it easy on the skinny pedal and watch your lines. It's all the items under the Jeep is where the major part of the cost of building one comes into play.
But like I said yours is a keeper and one I would build on for sure!
Last edited by Fred/N0AZZ; Apr 23, 2016 at 10:39 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 596
Likes: 7
From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
GM/Chevrolet made 10 bolt, 12 bolt, and 14 bolt axles, its the number of bolts holding the differential cover on. 14 bolt is one of the strongest axles made and fairly common in the junkyard, they do hang a little low, but hey make a shave kit for it where the bottom of the axle is shaved for more clearance. 14 bolts come in different widths, and some come with disc brakes, others you can adapt, keep in mind they also come with a different wheel bolt pattern, so now you need to change the front axle..... etc. etc. -
Ask (10) off roaders what to buy, and you will probably get more than (5) different opinions - 14 bolt, Dana 60, Dana 44 Rubicon, Ford 9", Ford 8.8, Sterling, JK Axles, after market (I know I have considered them all... LOL) , and then there is how wide to go.... the wider the more stable it is lifted, but the narrow the easier it is to get down some trails, then there is how it looks.... does it look funny to you with wide axles?
Google is your friend = https://www.google.com/search?q=14+b...hrome&ie=UTF-8
Honestly if you are new to the hobby, I would just fix the minor things on your jeep and enjoy it for a while, it is real easy to get into a snowball effect of upgrades, you know the "Well I am doing this I might as well do that" and the next thing you know you need $5000 to do your upgrades. Enjoy your jeep, Learn it while it is not as aggressive so you don't hurt yourself, building your jeep beyond your four wheeling skills can be dangerous, and many times can just take the fun out of it, NO CHALLENGE NO FUN, seen many people over build their jeep for how they use it.... then it becomes a trailer queen driven to off road parks only 3-4 times a year.... which is great if that is what you are looking for but many end up selling it and building something milder they can enjoy every weekend near where they live - BUT YOU PROBABLY DON'T KNOW YET
Heck I been four wheeling off and on for 45 years and I still not sure what I want to do on my current project - building it from a 2wd to 4wd. Right now Phase I will be built up to 35's as nice as I can afford (long arms, lockers front and back, disc brakes all around, frame stiffeners, relocation brackets, sye, upgraded driveshafts, cowl intake, big winch, but leaving the stock axles for now (yes 37's sound cooler, but 35's are much more affordable), Phase II will be a hybrid rollbar, and Phase III will be bigger axles and tires but only if I find I am getting bored of the 35's which I might not.
Ask (10) off roaders what to buy, and you will probably get more than (5) different opinions - 14 bolt, Dana 60, Dana 44 Rubicon, Ford 9", Ford 8.8, Sterling, JK Axles, after market (I know I have considered them all... LOL) , and then there is how wide to go.... the wider the more stable it is lifted, but the narrow the easier it is to get down some trails, then there is how it looks.... does it look funny to you with wide axles?
Google is your friend = https://www.google.com/search?q=14+b...hrome&ie=UTF-8
Honestly if you are new to the hobby, I would just fix the minor things on your jeep and enjoy it for a while, it is real easy to get into a snowball effect of upgrades, you know the "Well I am doing this I might as well do that" and the next thing you know you need $5000 to do your upgrades. Enjoy your jeep, Learn it while it is not as aggressive so you don't hurt yourself, building your jeep beyond your four wheeling skills can be dangerous, and many times can just take the fun out of it, NO CHALLENGE NO FUN, seen many people over build their jeep for how they use it.... then it becomes a trailer queen driven to off road parks only 3-4 times a year.... which is great if that is what you are looking for but many end up selling it and building something milder they can enjoy every weekend near where they live - BUT YOU PROBABLY DON'T KNOW YET
Heck I been four wheeling off and on for 45 years and I still not sure what I want to do on my current project - building it from a 2wd to 4wd. Right now Phase I will be built up to 35's as nice as I can afford (long arms, lockers front and back, disc brakes all around, frame stiffeners, relocation brackets, sye, upgraded driveshafts, cowl intake, big winch, but leaving the stock axles for now (yes 37's sound cooler, but 35's are much more affordable), Phase II will be a hybrid rollbar, and Phase III will be bigger axles and tires but only if I find I am getting bored of the 35's which I might not.
Last edited by bryweb; Apr 23, 2016 at 05:45 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,659
Likes: 0
From: Dayton OH
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
GM/Chevrolet made 10 bolt, 12 bolt, and 14 bolt axles, its the number of bolts holding the differential cover on. 14 bolt is one of the strongest axles made and fairly common in the junkyard, they do hang a little low, but hey make a shave kit for it where the bottom of the axle is shaved for more clearance. 14 bolts come in different widths, and some come with disc brakes, others you can adapt, keep in mind they also come with a different wheel bolt pattern, so now you need to change the front axle..... etc. etc. -
Google is your friend = https://www.google.com/search?q=14+b...hrome&ie=UTF-8
Honestly if you are new to the hobby, I would just fix the minor things on your jeep and enjoy it for a while, it is real easy to get into a snowball effect of upgrades, you know the "Well I am doing this I might as well do that" and the next thing you know you need $5000 to do your upgrades. Enjoy your jeep, Learn it while it is not as aggressive so you don't hurt yourself, building your jeep beyond your four wheeling skills can be dangerous, and many times can just take the fun out of it, NO CHALLENGE NO FUN, seen many people over build their jeep for how they use it.... then it becomes a trailer queen driven to off road parks only 3-4 times a year.... which is great if that is what you are looking for but many end up selling it and building something milder they can enjoy every weekend near where they live - BUT YOU PROBABLY DON'T KNOW YET
Heck I been four wheeling off and on for 45 years and I still not sure what I want to do on my current project - building it from a 2wd to 4wd. Right now Phase I will be built up to 35's as nice as I can afford (long arms, lockers front and back, disc brakes all around, frame stiffeners, relocation brackets, sye, upgraded driveshafts, cowl intake, big winch, but leaving the stock axles for now (yes 37's sound cooler, but 35's are much more affordable), Phase II will be a hybrid rollbar, and Phase III will be bigger axles and tires but only if I find I am getting bored of the 35's which I might not.
Google is your friend = https://www.google.com/search?q=14+b...hrome&ie=UTF-8
Honestly if you are new to the hobby, I would just fix the minor things on your jeep and enjoy it for a while, it is real easy to get into a snowball effect of upgrades, you know the "Well I am doing this I might as well do that" and the next thing you know you need $5000 to do your upgrades. Enjoy your jeep, Learn it while it is not as aggressive so you don't hurt yourself, building your jeep beyond your four wheeling skills can be dangerous, and many times can just take the fun out of it, NO CHALLENGE NO FUN, seen many people over build their jeep for how they use it.... then it becomes a trailer queen driven to off road parks only 3-4 times a year.... which is great if that is what you are looking for but many end up selling it and building something milder they can enjoy every weekend near where they live - BUT YOU PROBABLY DON'T KNOW YET
Heck I been four wheeling off and on for 45 years and I still not sure what I want to do on my current project - building it from a 2wd to 4wd. Right now Phase I will be built up to 35's as nice as I can afford (long arms, lockers front and back, disc brakes all around, frame stiffeners, relocation brackets, sye, upgraded driveshafts, cowl intake, big winch, but leaving the stock axles for now (yes 37's sound cooler, but 35's are much more affordable), Phase II will be a hybrid rollbar, and Phase III will be bigger axles and tires but only if I find I am getting bored of the 35's which I might not.
And I figured the 14 bolt was a Gm axle now I know a d60 is from a Ford but do they also come in Gm too? And if so what's better to get the d60 from
Last edited by cherokee37; Apr 23, 2016 at 05:54 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 596
Likes: 7
From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ford is generally the better axle, but there is a lot of differences just in the D60 model itself, Kingpin, Ball Joint, etc. etc. it takes a lot of research to figure out what is best for you.
Also everyone has a budget, some small.... some big.... some with little concern if its gone over.
D60 can be found in a Ford, Dodge, or GM the "D" is for Dana.
Ford is generally the better axle, but there is a lot of differences just in the D60 model itself, Kingpin, Ball Joint, etc. etc. it takes a lot of research to figure out what is best for you.
Also everyone has a budget, some small.... some big.... some with little concern if its gone over.
Ford is generally the better axle, but there is a lot of differences just in the D60 model itself, Kingpin, Ball Joint, etc. etc. it takes a lot of research to figure out what is best for you.
Also everyone has a budget, some small.... some big.... some with little concern if its gone over.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 17
From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The D60 is one of the few choices for the front and many use them for the rear also. I'm running a stock D30/Chy 8.25 29 spline on 35's for a few trails where I trailer the XJ into they are a set I bought used and re-grooved. Most of the time I'm on 33's for the road and most trails. I use the stock axles setup to protect my gears/lockers a sort of shear pin if you would say so that can be replaced on the trail, I carry spare axles and driveshaft.
I use my winch if there a chance of the wife and I having a problem as we wheel alone a majority of the time a long ways from the nearest road also pick our lines carefully. I don't plan on a lot more of improvements on mine other than a long arm kit is about it.
I use my winch if there a chance of the wife and I having a problem as we wheel alone a majority of the time a long ways from the nearest road also pick our lines carefully. I don't plan on a lot more of improvements on mine other than a long arm kit is about it.
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