made some tow hook mounts...
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
made some tow hook mounts...
took an hour or so... but here they are... all mounted through the frame with 1/2" grade 8 hardware and with a 1/4" plate steel backing plate on the other side
front
for this I made a bracket... drill out the original bumper hole and drilled through to the other side of the frame... there was a unused hole that I decided to use... and I used a 1/4" plate on the other side of the frame
for the rear I plan to make a similar bracket... but for now it should work... it goes all the way though the frame and has a 1/4" plate steel backing plate
you can't see the backing plate very well in this pic but you get the idea
front
for this I made a bracket... drill out the original bumper hole and drilled through to the other side of the frame... there was a unused hole that I decided to use... and I used a 1/4" plate on the other side of the frame
for the rear I plan to make a similar bracket... but for now it should work... it goes all the way though the frame and has a 1/4" plate steel backing plate
you can't see the backing plate very well in this pic but you get the idea
#3
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Year: 1996
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it's better than the available stock ones... I might weld the backing plates in place...
it will do for now till I make a decent bumper setup
it will do for now till I make a decent bumper setup
Last edited by ericfx1984; 05-22-2011 at 07:58 PM.
#5
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Year: 87
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Stock recovery hooks catch 4 10mm bolts and 1 1/2" bolt.. I personally thingk your design is going to get someone hurt.
I WOULD NOT pull you off a curb let alone a mud hole/rock pile
I WOULD NOT pull you off a curb let alone a mud hole/rock pile
#6
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Year: 1996
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With only 2 bolts mounting the bracket, it is barley any stronger than just bolting the hooks to the same holes. Yes its a strong bracket at 1/4" but its the attachment to the Uniboby that is at issue when dealing with recovery points. This is why ALL the aftermarket and stock mounts use at least 4 bolts spread over more area.
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#8
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#10
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your okay just dont do any snatches while hooked up to it, the shear strength is a lot for a grade 8 1/2 inch bolt, you could add a few more though for peace of mind by drilling a few more holes and re making the plate if you have any problems with the current design
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you didnt need to ruin that hitch, hitch mounted d-ring is fine for rear recoveries as long as you have a class III hitch. and if you dont its the mounting that is going to be the problem, not the hitch pin. That being said, looks beefy enough and if you dont want to use the hitch ever for anything else then nice work
question though: shouldnt the hitch be on the underside of the support bar? I am pretty sure if I tried to put that on my jeep as it is the hitch would be wanting to be where my bumper is
question though: shouldnt the hitch be on the underside of the support bar? I am pretty sure if I tried to put that on my jeep as it is the hitch would be wanting to be where my bumper is
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Thats what I am doing on my rig.. removing the sheetmetal under the the tailgate/ where the bumper would mount, and replacing it with 2x4x1/4 tubing.. with lots of gussets and tie in plates...FIgure it cant hurt.... especially since it is where the leaf spring mounts.
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Year: 1996
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yep... it will be... I am thinking about making a bumper off this setup... after I extend the mounts to tie in like a class 3 hitch would
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