Loquid iron shackle relocation brackets?
#1
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Wondering if anyone has personal experience with these? I'm looking for bolt on, no drilling through the floor installation. I don't mind if I have to trim the old shackle box out. Also looking for no lift. If anyone has pics of them installed that would be awesome. I ordered a set from froelich but he basically took my money and ran. No response when attempting to contact or anything. Appears as if I'm not the only one either if you look at his Facebook…
Wait this isn't about that! If anyone has any experience with these let me know it would be greatly appreciated!
Wait this isn't about that! If anyone has any experience with these let me know it would be greatly appreciated!
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Year: 1996
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The "1.5" lift is if the shackle/angle is in the same configuration as before you installed the brackets.. Meaning (for example) if you have 3.5" leafs with a 1" lift shackle and your angle is vertical, if you install the brackets and use the hole directly below (inline) with the stock shackle bolt it'll net you the 1.5".
Now, ideally, you are buying the relocation boxes to improve your shackle angle. By moving the shackle forward you actually decrease the lift the boxes provide.
I run the ironman4x4 fab w/ 1.25 rubicon express shackles and 3.5" leafs. With a shackle angle of approx 54° I only gained about .25" of lift which is not hardly noticeable (compared to 1.5")
The same applies to a no lift shackle box, if the bolt options are inline (just further forward) with the stock bolt, when you increase shackle angle you will, in turn, LOSE lift.
Just some info I've gathered from messing with shackle angles on my own and a few buddies rigs w/ various manufactures relocation boxes. Food for thought.
Now, ideally, you are buying the relocation boxes to improve your shackle angle. By moving the shackle forward you actually decrease the lift the boxes provide.
I run the ironman4x4 fab w/ 1.25 rubicon express shackles and 3.5" leafs. With a shackle angle of approx 54° I only gained about .25" of lift which is not hardly noticeable (compared to 1.5")
The same applies to a no lift shackle box, if the bolt options are inline (just further forward) with the stock bolt, when you increase shackle angle you will, in turn, LOSE lift.
Just some info I've gathered from messing with shackle angles on my own and a few buddies rigs w/ various manufactures relocation boxes. Food for thought.
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Year: 1996
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One more thing, the liquid iron boxes are basically identical to the ironman4x4fab.. The main difference being that the ironmanfab4x4 have more holes (more shackle angle options) this is why I went with them because you can fine tune your angle just a little better.
So you can essentially net 1.5" of lift with the liquid iron boxes as well, if you keep a terrible shackle angle as you had prior...
So you can essentially net 1.5" of lift with the liquid iron boxes as well, if you keep a terrible shackle angle as you had prior...
Last edited by Blaine; 03-31-2014 at 08:17 AM.
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Year: 1999
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Good info to have thank you, and they do bolt up right? Like I said I'm not afraid of fab work at all but do not want to run bolts through the floor in the rear hatch
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Year: 1996
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Yes they are both completely bolt in. They use the stock shackle bolt for the top, then 3-4 bolts to the frame where the receiver hitch/gas tank skids would bolt up. If you don't have either a gas tank skid (even factory skid would work) or a receiver then you will have to buy some nut strips that go in the frame rail. Jcr has some nice ones otherwise you can pick them up from a junkyard or stealership
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https://www.cherokeeforum.com/showth...=176743&page=5
You can see them here in my build, the ones I got are the "long travel" version which has the back end cut flat.. Allows the shackle to swing all the way back for more up travel.
It's about half way down the page
You can see them here in my build, the ones I got are the "long travel" version which has the back end cut flat.. Allows the shackle to swing all the way back for more up travel.
It's about half way down the page
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Those look good one there. Thanks for the info. Might just have to go with them. I like the bolt on feature the most! Now I just gotta get my money back from froelich…
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The Liquid Iron ones are going to add lift since they sit below the existing boxes.
I have the HD offroad engineering low profile ones. They work fine and were delivered quickly.
I'm not sure if bolting through the floor is required or optional, you should check with them.
I don't know why you have issues with drilling 4 holes in the floor if you are good with cutting off the existing shackle boxes though.
Pics on my build page.
I have the HD offroad engineering low profile ones. They work fine and were delivered quickly.
I'm not sure if bolting through the floor is required or optional, you should check with them.
I don't know why you have issues with drilling 4 holes in the floor if you are good with cutting off the existing shackle boxes though.
Pics on my build page.
Last edited by sreeb; 03-31-2014 at 11:55 PM.
#12
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What's the issue with drilling through the floor? It's 4 holes, two on each side, with the HD Offroad no lift relo's. Brian's a good dude, his products are great, and you can' beat $100 relo's to your door.
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The issue with bolting through the floor is that simply I don't want to do it! Not at all trying to be a jerk about it but why poke new holes in the body if there are options that allow you to not. Who knows I might get a wild hair in a few months and sell this one and buy another and then I have holes in the floor I have to deal with before I could rightfully sell it to someone else. This is a DD jeep so I have kept all my mods tasteful, not afraid to admit that I drive a mall crawler that can handle most anything. The iron man brackets all through more expensive seem like a good option in this case.…. Unless anyone has some real world experience with the liquid iron ones…
Last edited by Guntar13; 04-01-2014 at 04:03 AM.
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or just go with the regular hd ones with no drilling or cutting i personally ran the hd ones and have friends that run them we would not buy any other brand and if its a mall crawler why spend the money its not gonna get used put the cheapest lift on and drive it when it breaks take it to local jeep/4x4 shop fork over $$$ and say fix it
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or just go with the regular hd ones with no drilling or cutting i personally ran the hd ones and have friends that run them we would not buy any other brand and if its a mall crawler why spend the money its not gonna get used put the cheapest lift on and drive it when it breaks take it to local jeep/4x4 shop fork over $$$ and say fix it
Sounds like a great option for someone that doesn't do their own work. (Not this guy). I purchase quality parts for my jeeps and live by the strict philosophy that my stuff is built not bought. Been riding with my lift for about 8 months now and am just tired of the crappy shackle angle so looking for opinions on which brackets have the best reviews from real world people not members of the company posting reviews online. Which you see tons of these type out there! So far half the crowd agrees on HD, the other half on ironman, but so far no one has said much about the liquid iron. So am I to suspect they aren't very good or is it that people have just not used them?