Hey guys, this isn't my first stroll down long arm lane. I have a 98 Cherokee that has a Froehlich Suspension 3 Link kit. Im at about 6.5" of lift, well setup. No steering stabilizer, bad alignment, and it tracks straight as can be without a hint of wobble. The Froehlich Kit uses RuffStuff Heims, 1.25" on the Frame side of the lowers, 7/8" on both ends of the upper link and the track bar, and Ballistic Fab Poly bushings on the axle end of the lowers. I love the kit, but I was much happier when my Jeep was at 4" of lift with control arm drop brackets. After 10 years of owning this jeep, it unsettles me, but I believe im going to buy another XJ and do a bit more refined of a build. I can't take mine lower, because the Froehlich kit really needs 5" of spring at least to be happy in terms of link length, and I have cut out flares, and other things that make me need to just start fresh.. SOOOoo.


I'm going to swap my axles over so I can keep my ARB Super 30 Air locker, my Chromoly 30 Spline Axles, 4.88 gears and my rear locker.
I plan on Driving this Jeep every day, and I plan on being able to drive it for 2,000 mile trips without regret. A true, Overland capable XJ.


I do not want to go any higher than 4.5". I would be happy at 3.5" if I could get it set up right. I intend to run a 35" tire, and to Bump stop the suspension accordingly. I will obviously be running a higher offset/backspaced wheel. Most likely my OEM Jeep MOABS. I currently run them with 1.25" spacers, but I wouldn't need them if I was going under stock fender flares.


My concerns are that if I'm running wheels with a higher backspacing, or a narrower track, im worried about how much I will be rubbing on the lower control arms. That is one problem I have with my current Froehlich kit, and I only have 33" tires on it at the moment. I don't want to lose any of my OEM turning radius, or at least as little as possible.


SOOOOo.. Finally. I'm looking for the best Long Arm kit to run at lower heights and that offers the most turning radius clearance. I'm also looking for the best kit in terms of daily drivability. In otherwords, I want flex joints and preferably rubber bushings if I can get them(instead of solid heims and poly like I have now.


I Like the TNT Customs Y-Link, and it appears they offer a lot of tire clearance and can be ran at 3.5" of lift. They are also the most expensive, but I would pay for exactly what I want. It's nice having a clear plan of what I want to do, having been through it all before. I also already have a TNT TrackBar, which I will be using, so that's a plus.


Iron Rock Offroads Y Link kit also comes to mind: I wonder how their tire clearance is? any input? my reservation with IRO is that odd caster adjustment, I feel like I have seen a few of those mangled up.


I LOVE Clayton 3 Link Kits, but I am worried about turning radius clearance. I like their price, and I like the idea of having full length links instead of Radius Arms. I've read the problems about binding with Ylink/Radius arm kits, and that isn't a concern for me, I more have a concern with what I see described as "unloading" while going up hill? I like hill climbs, but I like feeling planted while I do it. Can anyone explain this to me? I also wonder how solid and straight a Y Link setup feels going down the road. As I said, my current jeep is ROCK SOLID, and I don't have to run a steering stabilizer, which I would expect to be able to do the same thing on my new build.

SO... Im open to suggestions.. All of you guys building Low Center of Gravity rigs, and especially the ones doing narrow builds, what long arm kits are you using???


Is it true that Y-Link/Radius arm setups "unload" going up hill? does this make it sketchier on significant hill climbs?


Like I said, I'm looking to build the best possibly driving, functional, trail rig. I like to wheel, but I like destination wheeling the most. Having plenty of down travel, and lockers front and rear, and I'll be good to go as far as traction. But the most important thing is that I can get this to drive like a well setup jeep on short arms and with the arms parallel to the ground (like with drop brackets).


Thanks for any input,
Brian
Here is my current Jeep....
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...1056392&page=5

 

Im on my phone so ill take the tome to go more indepth later but for starters the clayton 3link will only work at 6.5 lift. I asked them about running it at 4.5" and they said the arms will hit the floor of the jeep.

 

First of all, x2 on the TNT setup. It's a very well designed system and has a very very nice trans mount/ integrated t case skid. The tnt kit is one of the few that moves the lower arm mounts up into the trans mount so you get big clearance gains when using it with lower lift heights.

Don't over look the Full Traction 3.5 in kit. It's not quite a long arm system but it's not quite a mid arm system. But it is a true 4 link... Very nice.

Also if you are thinking about a DD XJ, consider running metal cloak Duro flex joints instead of heims. Much smoother on road, far less noise , as much articulation as a heim, and they are self centering!

 

Man I wish I could help you out. Hopefully the guys on here can help. Interested in what you come up with.

 

I also am paying close attention to this as I just increased my lift from 3-4 1/2" short term spacers and shackles. I did upgrade everything else when doing this lift till next year when I go to a long arm kit. So will only have a few items to sell when I swap over from current.

 

I have the TnT kit(although I am running 5.25"s of lift. It is nasty. Flexes great, rides great, and the clearance is ridiculous. X3 on that. As far as rubbing goes. You won't rub on the arms. But you will rub on the "frame". I would just suggest running wheels with less backspacing. I run 3.3" BS.

 

I have the Full Traction 3.5" kit on my daily driver. Their arms mount to the "frame" a little differently from other kits. The brackets sandwich the frame rails and you use the stock crossmember. This pushes the attachment points of the lower arms out pretty wide and a little lower than some of the kits that tuck up really tight, but you do get a true 4-link with this setup. A couple comments on this setup related to your concerns:

- The tires do rub on the lowers. I still need to adjust my steering stops, but right now I just try not to turn the wheel all the way. It's only a problem in tight parking lots. I've got 33x12.5 Duratracs on 15x8 wheels with 3.75" backspacing, fyi.

- The system rides well on the street, but not as smooth as stock. The heim joints are not silent or totally smooth. I'm fine with using it as my daily driver, but my previous daily driver was a huge '94 Chevy Caprice wagon that floated down the road. Some people say that an XJ with long arms rides like a Cadillac - no, it does not!

- I'm still on stock gearing so it takes a little effort to get up to highway speeds or pass someone, but once I'm at 80mph I can cruise easily with one finger on the wheel and it tracks great as long as I don't have a crazy crosswind. I still prefer to take my wife's car on longer trips (better mpg, better cupholders, independent suspension, comfier seats, etc.), but the XJ is still highway capable.

 

See, the tire clearance woes are a worry to me. I would prefer to run stock 16x8 Moabs without Spacers, but the least thick spacer necessary.

I like having a multilink kit, but I do love a lot of the feature of the TNT kit. If only I could get a 3 link that has arched lowers for tire clearance, a SKID PLATE, and used stock axle mounting.....

I like the clayton kit, but im not sure it would work at only 4" of lift....

 

nothing about the build quality of the TNT is a concern, I know they make quality stuff, and I like the clearance they offer... I just want to make sure I get something that has been speed tested. and hill climbs are part of my wheeling adventure.. lol

 

I think if you run the clayton 4.5 radius arms with a strap to tie your axle to the body you would be set up perfect. That would eliminate any possibility of unloading