nah. that's a good deal though. I'll go and find my own hook up. been meaning to ask you what is the width of your waggy front axle? do you have spacers on the 8.8 or something? can you stuff 5.13's in there?

 

The Waggy 44 WMS is 60". I converted it to 5 lug and run ****ty adapters on the 8.8 to make up the width and bolt pattern difference.

Crappy picture but you get the point.

 

If I were to do it again, I'd go 2x4 for the cross member, would have been a hell of a lot easier to package. If you put it that high, you will have to reclock the transfer case. Otherwise the transfer case won't clear the cross member. If you have any questions or need any other shots, feel free to ask.

 

Forgot to say that I've already clocked my 231.

 

OK, I understand why "long arm is always better" over short, but I still have a question. Seems they become rock sliders regardless if we like it or not. Is the a problem or when you hear the bashing and know it's your long arms you just tell yourself to ignore it.

My consideration: IRO 5.5" long arm kit with 33s. On road use is not important.

 

Depends on the kit.

 

I would/wanna go with clayton. Serious and I think satang do the 2x2 square also with removal section. And then piece together the rest of the parts, sometimes you spend more, sometimes less but you get what you want. Bds is nice too but pricey as well.

Bds came me a quote a couple years ago of 1700 for the 6.5 long arm and that was a killer deal but didn't have money for it and they usually run around 2200/2500

 

I can't think of a time ive ever truly been hung up on my my midarms or longarms. with the axles locked and all 4 tires spinning the rig always finds enough traction to slide off one way or another.

 

Agreed. My concern is more of damaging them rather than getting hung-up. My limited experience with 32" or 33" tires is the bottom getting beat-up as the front tires roll off rocks. And not just once in a while but pretty often.

 

So buy a kit eith a good warranty.

 

I think you are underestimating the strength of most longarm setups.

If its say 1/4" wall dom with a 2" outer diameter (most longarm setups run this size id say) You have absolutely nothing to worry about.

Only on rigs with heavy axles, and big, heavy tires getting pounded on in the rocks I see long links made of that tubing turn into a banana after a while.

 

I see why you said that. Very clever.

Warranty:

- Clayton = Lifetime including bent or broken arm replacement.
- Rubicon Express = Lifetime including bent or broken arm replacement.
- T&T Customs = None due to the nature of the use, but there is a vague statement about making a judgement on warranty claims.
- Iron Rock = Lifetime including bent or broken arm replacement.
- Rough Country = Lifetime but there are big "buts" about normal wear.
- Serious Offroad = Lifetime including bent or broken arm replacement.
- BDS = Lifetime including bent or broken arm replacement.
- Rusty's = Lifetime but doesn't mention arms specifically.

I'm sure you're right. I know nothing about their strength. Thanks for the info.

 

Not really.
Companies like t&t rusty's and rough country used thinner D. O. M. in order to facilitate the manufacturing process. Trying to bend. 250" wall D.O.M. is darn near impossible.

 

The IRO appear to have a bend in them. This kind of freaks me out too. Although they state 2" x 5/16" tubes.

 

Now thats dissapointing. Never actually checked the thickness of others, just assumed they werent total idiots.