Long arm or short arm
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
haha. well now that we've moved on and the OP is no where to be found
can I get some input on building my own 3 link? just a feeler. probably wont do it till next year but here's the plan
clayton 3 link x-member $350
clayton 3 link bridge w/ mount $75
then do you think I can get ruffstuff heims and tubes and get some help building the arms for $250 including some labor?
I want to do this on a $750 budget because that's how much the serious offroad LA upgrade costs
then if I ever want to go 4 link rear I can just attach the clayton belly pan and get their 4 link truss
my only concern is the clayton cross member doesnt have a tcase skid
can I get some input on building my own 3 link? just a feeler. probably wont do it till next year but here's the plan
clayton 3 link x-member $350
clayton 3 link bridge w/ mount $75
then do you think I can get ruffstuff heims and tubes and get some help building the arms for $250 including some labor?
I want to do this on a $750 budget because that's how much the serious offroad LA upgrade costs
then if I ever want to go 4 link rear I can just attach the clayton belly pan and get their 4 link truss
my only concern is the clayton cross member doesnt have a tcase skid
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
The expensive part of that is going to be purchasing the DOM. Unless you know of a shop that deals with DOM regularly then you're most likely going to have to buy a whole stick of DOM. That's not cheap. You'll have 200 bucks in JUST the material for the lower links...
The trick is to find somewhere that will sell it by the foot. I have yet to find this place.
Now, Ruffstuff sells DOM but I don't know if they sell 2" stuff. They mostly sell it for steering links.
You're still going to be pushing your $250 limit.
The Clayton stuff sounds great.
Make sure you reinforce your LCA mounts when you do this.
The trick is to find somewhere that will sell it by the foot. I have yet to find this place.
Now, Ruffstuff sells DOM but I don't know if they sell 2" stuff. They mostly sell it for steering links.
You're still going to be pushing your $250 limit.
The Clayton stuff sounds great.
Make sure you reinforce your LCA mounts when you do this.
Originally Posted by Atmos
I went through the "which lift kit to buy" experience awhile back. none really stood out for an affordable price. I'm in the process of building something similar to this list. maybe it will give you some ideas.
serious offroad RE 4.5" coils $68
OME 3.5" leafs $270
RE 5" shackle $74
rock krawler track bar $230
serious offroad long arms $750
bilstein 5100's $315
SYE $200
go-ferit tie rod flip taper $20
homemade discos
some junk yard brake lines and a trip to ACE for hardware.
that is a complete suspension for $1917
and you can use cheaper parts too to save even more money.
remember that those RE kit's you're looking at dont come with shocks
serious offroad RE 4.5" coils $68
OME 3.5" leafs $270
RE 5" shackle $74
rock krawler track bar $230
serious offroad long arms $750
bilstein 5100's $315
SYE $200
go-ferit tie rod flip taper $20
homemade discos
some junk yard brake lines and a trip to ACE for hardware.
that is a complete suspension for $1917
and you can use cheaper parts too to save even more money.
remember that those RE kit's you're looking at dont come with shocks
Originally Posted by lowrange2
The expensive part of that is going to be purchasing the DOM. Unless you know of a shop that deals with DOM regularly then you're most likely going to have to buy a whole stick of DOM. That's not cheap. You'll have 200 bucks in JUST the material for the lower links...
The trick is to find somewhere that will sell it by the foot. I have yet to find this place.
Now, Ruffstuff sells DOM but I don't know if they sell 2" stuff. They mostly sell it for steering links.
You're still going to be pushing your $250 limit.
The Clayton stuff sounds great.
Make sure you reinforce your LCA mounts when you do this.
The trick is to find somewhere that will sell it by the foot. I have yet to find this place.
Now, Ruffstuff sells DOM but I don't know if they sell 2" stuff. They mostly sell it for steering links.
You're still going to be pushing your $250 limit.
The Clayton stuff sounds great.
Make sure you reinforce your LCA mounts when you do this.

Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
Exactly.
He was hoping to spend no more than 250 on the three seperate links.
I'm afraid they're going to be much higher.
Cost me two arms and my 3rd leg.
He was hoping to spend no more than 250 on the three seperate links.
I'm afraid they're going to be much higher.
Cost me two arms and my 3rd leg.
haha. well now that we've moved on and the OP is no where to be found
can I get some input on building my own 3 link? just a feeler. probably wont do it till next year but here's the plan
clayton 3 link x-member $350
clayton 3 link bridge w/ mount $75
then do you think I can get ruffstuff heims and tubes and get some help building the arms for $250 including some labor?
I want to do this on a $750 budget because that's how much the serious offroad LA upgrade costs
then if I ever want to go 4 link rear I can just attach the clayton belly pan and get their 4 link truss
my only concern is the clayton cross member doesnt have a tcase skid
can I get some input on building my own 3 link? just a feeler. probably wont do it till next year but here's the plan
clayton 3 link x-member $350
clayton 3 link bridge w/ mount $75
then do you think I can get ruffstuff heims and tubes and get some help building the arms for $250 including some labor?
I want to do this on a $750 budget because that's how much the serious offroad LA upgrade costs
then if I ever want to go 4 link rear I can just attach the clayton belly pan and get their 4 link truss
my only concern is the clayton cross member doesnt have a tcase skid
specifically, post 50
I'm building my own 3 link kit right now it's not that expensive.. Considering I got about 300 in dom for my links and steering another 300 in heims and Johnny joints another 250 in 6.5 coils and shocks but there's lots of customizing .welding and u gotta know someone with the suspension program to figure out the length of ur arms. Then u will b set up.. Here's a.pic of my buddies jeep with custom link and steering
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CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The expensive part of that is going to be purchasing the DOM. Unless you know of a shop that deals with DOM regularly then you're most likely going to have to buy a whole stick of DOM. That's not cheap. You'll have 200 bucks in JUST the material for the lower links...
The trick is to find somewhere that will sell it by the foot. I have yet to find this place.
Now, Ruffstuff sells DOM but I don't know if they sell 2" stuff. They mostly sell it for steering links.
You're still going to be pushing your $250 limit.
The Clayton stuff sounds great.
Make sure you reinforce your LCA mounts when you do this.
The trick is to find somewhere that will sell it by the foot. I have yet to find this place.
Now, Ruffstuff sells DOM but I don't know if they sell 2" stuff. They mostly sell it for steering links.
You're still going to be pushing your $250 limit.
The Clayton stuff sounds great.
Make sure you reinforce your LCA mounts when you do this.
if I can get it all done for less than $800 that would be worth it to me. otherwise I might just buy the serious LA upgrade
thanks for the tip on beefing the lca mounts. so what about using square tubing like clayton? any cheaper?
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ht=link&page=2
specifically, post 50
specifically, post 50
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 1
From: Warren, Pa
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by N20jeep
yes, using square tube is much cheaper than DOM
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'll ask my fab guy and see what he says. oh well thanks for the input guys.
oh and here's that place in sacto that sells metal. last time I was there they were cutting tubing and selling it by the foot
was it DOM? not sure. but it's worth a call maybe they even ship
metal craft wharehouse http://sacramento.citysearch.com/pro...warehouse.html
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
From: Wrightstown, NJ
Year: 1986 Comanche
Engine: Chevy 350
I kinda browsed through it and didn't read each word for word but the most expensive part in most 3-links are the joints. I'm running a set of Ballistic Fab joints on each end of my control arms (6 joints total) with the optional 5/8" upgraded hole and love them. Total I have about $600 into my long arms but everything is upgraded, made of 1/4" and have tons of time into it to keep everything above the frame rails (reclocked the transfer case and built all the control arm mounts from the cross member up.
If you're running a 3-link, you'll want to run 2"x0.25" wall DOM at the smallest, which runs around $15 a foot. I still say to go with atleast 0.25" if running square also as you don't want any of the links to bend or really fail in any way.
If you're running a 3-link, you'll want to run 2"x0.25" wall DOM at the smallest, which runs around $15 a foot. I still say to go with atleast 0.25" if running square also as you don't want any of the links to bend or really fail in any way.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
there's a place in west sac that sells by the foot. and there is a small business owner discount. so I get metal fairly cheap. and my buddy is a professional fabricator so if I bring him everything he'll put it all together for pretty cheap. so that just leaves heims but Dan at ruffstuff is really reasonable when you go talk to him in person. so I'll check it out.
if I can get it all done for less than $800 that would be worth it to me. otherwise I might just buy the serious LA upgrade
thanks for the tip on beefing the lca mounts. so what about using square tubing like clayton? any cheaper?
if I can get it all done for less than $800 that would be worth it to me. otherwise I might just buy the serious LA upgrade
thanks for the tip on beefing the lca mounts. so what about using square tubing like clayton? any cheaper?
Would it make you sick to know that when I bought my Rock Krawler 3 link kit I paid $295 for the 3 link add-on brand spankin new from RK? They've gone up... a LOT!
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 1
From: Warren, Pa
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by lowrange2
Would it make you sick to know that when I bought my Rock Krawler 3 link kit I paid $295 for the 3 link add-on brand spankin new from RK? They've gone up... a LOT!
I kinda browsed through it and didn't read each word for word but the most expensive part in most 3-links are the joints. I'm running a set of Ballistic Fab joints on each end of my control arms (6 joints total) with the optional 5/8" upgraded hole and love them. Total I have about $600 into my long arms but everything is upgraded, made of 1/4" and have tons of time into it to keep everything above the frame rails (reclocked the transfer case and built all the control arm mounts from the cross member up.
If you're running a 3-link, you'll want to run 2"x0.25" wall DOM at the smallest, which runs around $15 a foot. I still say to go with atleast 0.25" if running square also as you don't want any of the links to bend or really fail in any way.
If you're running a 3-link, you'll want to run 2"x0.25" wall DOM at the smallest, which runs around $15 a foot. I still say to go with atleast 0.25" if running square also as you don't want any of the links to bend or really fail in any way.
Just read over the 3 link part of your build thread. That's exactly what I'm planning on doing. I've already got HDO stiffeners on and some spare 2x6 in the garage. Need to get around to cutting some side mounting feet and planning on sleeving the rails for the mounting holes.


