Investinwaffles has the perfect solution! Simple as a 15$ flasher that replaces the one under the drivers side dash. Thank you!

Now the problem is they are just WAY to dim... I understand there is a "super bright". Not even sure why I'm going down this rabbit hole. I guess I like crisp "white" rather than the glow of incandescent.

Thanks again Investinwaffles!

tr

 

Make SURE you are using RED LEDS with the red lenses, and AMBER with the AMBER lenses. Using WHITE LEDS with colored lenses will block most of the light. Light wavelengths and sciencey crap is involved here. I tried white on a trailer and was NOT impressed. RED units blasted brightly through the red lenses tho.

 

i always read that LEDs are a bad choice for marking/turning lights anyway due to low output. maybe that was back when they first happened and the tech has gotten farther along so they are more noticeable now?

 

Reviving an old thread, but this has been my life for the past 2 years. Here goes my story:

• I replaced the front signals with LED switchback bulbs, had no idea there was an easily accessible flasher that I could replace (last car I owned was BCM controlled, and a couple I've worked on were manufacturer specific units, and I was too rushed to research) so I wired in resistors instead. I wired the passenger side first and everything went fine. Wired the drivers side in and still had hyperflash on that side, so I wired in a second resistor for the drivers side and it slowed to normal (again, I was using what I had at the time, being my daily driver I was always in a rush to get it on the road, and I wouldn't recommend this kind of patchwork to anyone).
• I rocked that setup for a while and everything was cool, until one day the drivers side started to hyperflash again. Did some research, found that XJ's have a normal flasher that is easily replaceable, ordered a Profile Flashpack Relay/Flasher and some rear LED turn signals. I removed all resistors, installed flasher and rear LED bulbs and everything was perfect, or so I thought. As soon as I started the engine, hyperflash and all sorts of buzzing from the flasher.
• Followed investinwaffles suggestions and disconnected the trailer module: still had hyperflash problems. I swapped the OEM flasher back in: problems worsened now with buzzing and no flash, just steady on. Swapped rear LEDs to OEM, with LED front signals and OEM flasher: hyperflash.
• Tried to get specs for Profile Flashpack Relay but nothing to be found, so I decided on the Novita EP27. This is the solution to the problem. Don't settle for any other flasher unless the specs are the same or better.

 

Only use the Novita EP27 flasher or one with the same or better specs. I tried a Profile FlashPack Relay and still had hyperflash issues, they actually got worse.

 

Yep, way back when, they are insane now.

 

This is a great thread it helped me figure out the led problems of:
Rapid Flash Turn Signals: Replace flasher relay with EP27 digital relay
Front Turn Signals and Parking Lights Behaving Strangely: Make sure to replace the turn signal bulbs with non-polarity sensitive 3157 and 194 bulbs
Turn Signal Indicators Stuck On: Make sure to replace the BOTH the turn signal bulbs and parking light bulbs with non-polarity sensitive 3157 and 194 bulbs. Just replacing one or the other causes problems
LED headlight stuck on dimly or high beam indicator stuck on: Remove fog signal relay under hood or do the headlight harness upgrade or ground the 20g red wire at the drivers side headlight plug.

I had to figure out why some of these problems were happening so I went through the wiring diagram in the FSM for my 99 Cherokee Sport and traced the why the turn signal and highbeam indicators were stuck on. (see pics below)

Turn signal issues are due to the fact that the parking light bulbs are fed power on both sides in order to make sure they flash along with the turn signals causing grounding issues

Headlight issues are due to the fog lamp relay being fed power on both sides to make sure the fogs turn off when the high beams are on.
(I chose to ground the 20g red wire so I can turn on fogs if my high beams are on - not a law in my state)



Voltage path in yellow with blue arrows FOG relay circled in red

Voltage path in yellow with blue arrows Driver headlamp plug circled in red

 

You only have to use non polarity LED 194's in the side markers.
OK to run regular LED's in the front.
But I used 3157's there.
But I don't have factory fog lights so that could be a factor.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/le...3/#post3589536

 

oops your right 1157's are for older cherokees I used 3157's illl correct it

 

I have a 92 XJ. I did the bulb conversion first. Brake lights were dim voltage regulator went in the haywire mode and I had no turn signals or four ways. Put an electronic flasher in did not help matters at all. Then the headlight switch smoked.
Decided to go full potato.....
I changed out the front turn signals with 6-in oval LEDs off of Amazon. Pulled my tail light completely apart the first build was with a set of pardon me two sets of square LED brake light for trailers. Wired one for turn signal wire the other one normal they fit inside the squared tail lights perfectly had the gut them out but I didn't care at the time ran like that for a long time with no real issues except for the need of an electronic turn signal which was very easy to install. However the headlights kept burning up the headlight switch.
Fast forward to now I got on Amazon and I bought a headlight relay kit took 5 minutes to install no more headlight switch issues no more flickering issues.
Rebuilt the rear lights with 4-in round lights that I got on Amazon that are just outrageously crazy bright and their multi-purpose they have built-in strobes backup lights so on so forth and for turn signals I used 4-in Amber LEDs on the back. No problems with lighting now.
Only problem I'm having now is voltage regulation. The LEDs draw such a small amount of power that the voltage regulator automatically stops charging when the battery is caught up and you stay around 12.7 volts while you're driving which for normal operation is not a problem whatsoever until you decide to roll down a window or roll up a window and the voltage regulator doesn't keep up with that. I am about to put in a kit from a YouTuber called the alternator man and he makes it for the xjs it's a external voltage regulator kit