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Iron rock offroad high steer?

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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 11:38 AM
  #31  
Lead Foot's Avatar
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From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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All the bad talk about heims is just talk. Not true if you get QUALITY heims. A cheap bushing, tie rod end, or heim will always wear out more quickly then a quality one. I have many customers that have installed our steering and felt it was tighter then a stock jeep. The choice is yours though.

The thing I would worry about with the JCR steering is that it is susceptible to tie rod roll as it is an inverted T set up. This can cause dead spots and unresponsive steering. With a crossover steering set up your pitman arm is connected dierectly to your passenger knuckle leaving no room for play.

A steering stabilizer is just a band aid. Not needed if you are running a well made tight steering set up.

Last edited by Lead Foot; Feb 6, 2013 at 11:44 AM.
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 12:41 PM
  #32  
91XJMudMan's Avatar
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From: Mildenhall, United Kingdom
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
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Originally Posted by Lead Foot
All the bad talk about heims is just talk. Not true if you get QUALITY heims. A cheap bushing, tie rod end, or heim will always wear out more quickly then a quality one. I have many customers that have installed our steering and felt it was tighter then a stock jeep. The choice is yours though.

The thing I would worry about with the JCR steering is that it is susceptible to tie rod roll as it is an inverted T set up. This can cause dead spots and unresponsive steering. With a crossover steering set up your pitman arm is connected dierectly to your passenger knuckle leaving no room for play.

A steering stabilizer is just a band aid. Not needed if you are running a well made tight steering set up.
So if I run your crossover steering kit with the tierod in the OTK position, a drop pitman arm, and a track bar drop bracket, will I still need to move the track bar axle side mount to an over the axle type? and! In the OTK setup with the drag link on top of the tierod. would it place to much force on the bolt connecting it to the knuckle? seems like a very high stress point to me
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 12:58 PM
  #33  
Lead Foot's Avatar
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From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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First. Realize that the reason you need to locate the track bar over the axle is to make it more level to match the steering. You can only drop the frame side of the track bar so much before it hits the axle, so you need to start raising the axle side.

Most dont run a drop pitman arm with a steering set up like ours unless you are lifted really high. Most also dont choose to run the tie rod OTK, only the drag link. This isn't necessarily done this way because of strength but because they have found their steering angles are already improved so much just by locating the drag link itself OTK.
Remember, the flatter your drag link is; the flatter your track bar needs to be.

You can run our crossover steering kit with a track bar using the stock axle location provided the frame side mount supplies enough drop. Once you move the tie rod over the knuckle and then stack the drag link on top of that, you are leveling the drag link even more and now your track bar isnt level enough. At that point you will need to relocate the axle side track bar mount. You could then add a drop pitman arm if you wanted to level the drag link even more. Just remember you will need to choose the holes accordingly on our brackets to get the track bar to match.

There is also another benifit of relocating the track bar above the axle verse dropping the frame side. The higher your track bar is, the more stable your Jeep will be. The track bar determines your roll center. The closer your roll center is to the center of gravity of the jeep, the less the jeep will lean on side hills.

Strength of the steering knuckle when stacking the tie rod and drag link is not a concern, expecially when running 37" and smaller tires. The grade 8 5/8" bolt has a plenty high enough sheer rating. The knuckle its self is also very strong being 1-1/8" thick and at least 1-1/4" around. Just drill out the pitman arm and knuckles nice and strait and use lock tite when bolting everything together and torque it good. A 5/8" grade 8 bolt can be torqued all the way to 240 foot-pounds.

I hope I answered all your questions clearly. Feel free to ask more.

Kris Froehlich

Last edited by Lead Foot; Feb 6, 2013 at 01:01 PM.
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 01:51 PM
  #34  
Juan4you's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Riverside county
Year: 89' soon to be
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO 167k miles
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Originally Posted by Lead Foot
First. Realize that the reason you need to locate the track bar over the axle is to make it more level to match the steering. You can only drop the frame side of the track bar so much before it hits the axle, so you need to start raising the axle side.

Most dont run a drop pitman arm with a steering set up like ours unless you are lifted really high. Most also dont choose to run the tie rod OTK, only the drag link. This isn't necessarily done this way because of strength but because they have found their steering angles are already improved so much just by locating the drag link itself OTK.
Remember, the flatter your drag link is; the flatter your track bar needs to be.

You can run our crossover steering kit with a track bar using the stock axle location provided the frame side mount supplies enough drop. Once you move the tie rod over the knuckle and then stack the drag link on top of that, you are leveling the drag link even more and now your track bar isnt level enough. At that point you will need to relocate the axle side track bar mount. You could then add a drop pitman arm if you wanted to level the drag link even more. Just remember you will need to choose the holes accordingly on our brackets to get the track bar to match.

There is also another benifit of relocating the track bar above the axle verse dropping the frame side. The higher your track bar is, the more stable your Jeep will be. The track bar determines your roll center. The closer your roll center is to the center of gravity of the jeep, the less the jeep will lean on side hills.

Strength of the steering knuckle when stacking the tie rod and drag link is not a concern, expecially when running 37" and smaller tires. The grade 8 5/8" bolt has a plenty high enough sheer rating. The knuckle its self is also very strong being 1-1/8" thick and at least 1-1/4" around. Just drill out the pitman arm and knuckles nice and strait and use lock tite when bolting everything together and torque it good. A 5/8" grade 8 bolt can be torqued all the way to 240 foot-pounds.

I hope I answered all your questions clearly. Feel free to ask more.

Kris Froehlich
One more time for us who didn't get it the first! Lol
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 02:00 PM
  #35  
Lead Foot's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,448
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From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Does this help at all?

http://froehlichsuspension.3dcartsto...ringSetups.jpg
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