Upgrade Question(s)
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Upgrade Question(s)
So I ordered a Smittybilt package (was on sale through quadratec - $1200 for XRC Front winch bumper, rear xrc bumper w/ tire carrier and xrc rock sliders). My biggest question is while I'm installing these is there any other upgrades I should be doing? The front bumper looks like the steering gear box bolts need to be removed so I figured I should replace the box with a durango box and a c-rok bracket. But I'm not sure if I need frame stiffners or not... The bumper comes with an outside frame mounting plate but doesn't say anything about the inner frame. Should I pick up some inner stiffners as well? Anything else that I should upgrade in that area while I'm already there?
Thanks for the input!
Thanks for the input!
#2
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter H.O
So I ordered a Smittybilt package (was on sale through quadratec - $1200 for XRC Front winch bumper, rear xrc bumper w/ tire carrier and xrc rock sliders). My biggest question is while I'm installing these is there any other upgrades I should be doing? The front bumper looks like the steering gear box bolts need to be removed so I figured I should replace the box with a durango box and a c-rok bracket. But I'm not sure if I need frame stiffners or not... The bumper comes with an outside frame mounting plate but doesn't say anything about the inner frame. Should I pick up some inner stiffners as well? Anything else that I should upgrade in that area while I'm already there?
Thanks for the input!
Thanks for the input!
Stiffeners are almost never a bad idea, provided they are installed properly. I really think they should be welded, rather than bolt on. If you go over a 37" tire or do alot of winching, front section stiffening is a really good idea.
It sounds like steering may be a concern of yours so I'd upgrade that. Often it's an under sold improvement.
#3
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
I've seen outer unibody brackets from HD bumpers offer next to no protection against unibody cracking from the steering box. I have a friend with outer unibody tie-ins and 35-inch tires, and he's suffered a crack just in front of one of the steering box bolts.
The inner bracket and the outer bracket are just going to sandwich each other together and put more stress on the thinner unibody metal, so I've never really understood the point of the inner steering box "stiffener braces," but you can always run a steering box brace that ties into the opposing side of the unibody for added rigidity, like the one by M.O.R.E.
I would vote up for welded stiffeners if you wheel hard. And agree with the previous poster about the Durango box being a waste of time.
The inner bracket and the outer bracket are just going to sandwich each other together and put more stress on the thinner unibody metal, so I've never really understood the point of the inner steering box "stiffener braces," but you can always run a steering box brace that ties into the opposing side of the unibody for added rigidity, like the one by M.O.R.E.
I would vote up for welded stiffeners if you wheel hard. And agree with the previous poster about the Durango box being a waste of time.
#4
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I swapped to a Durango box. It is shorter turns lock to lock but other than that I noticed no difference. Just rebuild your factory box or buy a new one. It is a direct swap if you use your xj pitman arm tho so if you want to go that route, its a simple swap
#5
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0 L
Think I'll pass on the Durango box then. I don't wheel very hard, just figured since I would be tinkering in the area might as well. I was going to upgrade my steering linkage but then saw this deal. Steering will have to wait another month or so.
#7
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
I've seen outer unibody brackets from HD bumpers offer next to no protection against unibody cracking from the steering box. I have a friend with outer unibody tie-ins and 35-inch tires, and he's suffered a crack just in front of one of the steering box bolts.
The inner bracket and the outer bracket are just going to sandwich each other together and put more stress on the thinner unibody metal, so I've never really understood the point of the inner steering box "stiffener braces," but you can always run a steering box brace that ties into the opposing side of the unibody for added rigidity, like the one by M.O.R.E.
I would vote up for welded stiffeners if you wheel hard. And agree with the previous poster about the Durango box being a waste of time.
The inner bracket and the outer bracket are just going to sandwich each other together and put more stress on the thinner unibody metal, so I've never really understood the point of the inner steering box "stiffener braces," but you can always run a steering box brace that ties into the opposing side of the unibody for added rigidity, like the one by M.O.R.E.
I would vote up for welded stiffeners if you wheel hard. And agree with the previous poster about the Durango box being a waste of time.
If you are looking to stiffen the frame and NOT do a full cage, go for Detours Stiffeners. (Check out option #3 - $295) They bolt on at the front bolt of your rear leaf spring, then you peg them in place with a self tapping screw, and then weld through the rosette holes and the front tab. I put these things on and then drove it over to my buddies place to weld them up; without even being welded ALL the squeaks and creaks were gone. Wheeled it for a while and it COMPLETELY stiffened up the frame. In fact, when I finally put in the full cage, the difference in stiffness was not that much more!
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#8
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my warn bumper has larger holes to go around the steering box bolts, this way you don't have to remove those as they're known to snap off in the box.
you could always cut the holes to fit around the bolt heads. there are plenty other bolts to compensate, imho.
you could always cut the holes to fit around the bolt heads. there are plenty other bolts to compensate, imho.
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