Going up to 6" of lift. The steering already wonders at 5". Plan at this point is to sleeve and gusset the D30 and while I'm at it turn my inner C's for more caster. I've heard 5 degrees is best. Has anyone dine this? Can offer advice? Where to measure angles? Cut and turn Cs backward (top back, bottoms forward)?

Norhing?

Its a huge job to do right and its not needed tell you go over 7 inches of lift.

I think your wandering issues can be handle without turning the 'C's. I'm at 5" and have no wandering issues, with stock steering linkages.

I have installed CADs, double shear track bar w/ drop bracket, drop pitman arm, longer LCAs, adjusted caster to 5 degrees using GoJeep's instructions, new ball joints, and new UCA bushings. Drives like a new car.

Cutting the 'C's is a bit extreme. I'd wager you have worn components causing your issues.

When you have a highly modified Jeep and ask a modified questions and get mundane answers.

Sorry man but the only legitament question you asked was where to measure the angles which most of us don't know because we've never done this. You dont have to do this unless you really want to dial in perfect caster and pinion angle. If I were you I'd be looking into other reasons why your steering is wandering because there's a good chance you'll set everything where it should be and it still won't be perfect.

Ideal caster is about 7 degrees but is often compromised a bit to maintain a proper pinion angle to avoid vibrations. I'm at 6" of lift with 5 degrees of castor and have no driveline vibes. I feel as if some more caster would be beneficial but I don't attribute my negative handling to my caster angle.

Just my $0.02.

It will take a 230 volt welder and a very skilled welder to get it right,Honestly i have nver seen a jeep jacked up high enough to need it,And if im going that far im gonna swap in bigger axles like a dana 60 and a 14 bolt.

fantastic response, what I was looking for. Looong story. I have a diesel in my Jeep and I'm around 5-6" lift with all new components including under the knuckle 1ton steering. I have an extra D30HP housing that I want to put my ARB into. I want to dial the angles in perfect, I'm at the compromising point of pinion angles and caster/steering sensitivity. This is an overland type build that gets wheeled harder than it should, everything else is perfect might as well do this. 7 degrees is about right you say?

At that much lift im sure youre not going to be running a small set of tires. Going through that much effort youd be better off buying a stronger axle and dialing that one in to suit your needs.

5*- 7* is the magic number.

At 6" of lift, cutting and turning the C's is a whole lot of work, for not a whole lot of gain.

Do you have access to an alignment bar and pucks, a 240V welder, ability to pre and post heat, etc.?

I'm not going to tell you it's not worth it because if done right then you'll have perfect angles but I do think you should reconsider your priorities.

IMO 6" of lift is too much for UTK steering and I think this could be causing some negative handling effects. I know you said you have all new everything on the axle but I'd recommend a WJ knuckle swap for the best style of steering (crossover) as well as the benefit of big brakes. It's much less work than clocking your c's and you would get much more noticeable results. Even an OTK inverted T kit would be happier because the bars would be more flat.

Basically the way I'm looking at this is if you're willing to grind your c's off and move them you might as well build the crap out of your axle. You're already gunna be ***** deep in it.

As far as the actual process goes, I'm sure it's possible to do with some less-than professional gear such as plumb-bobs and angle finders or whatever but you better know exactly what you're doing. You're gunna have to do some internet digging and noggin-pokin on that one.

and yes, 7 degrees is the preferred angle, as set by the factory. I think it gives a range of like +/- 1.5 degrees. You often see if less on the forums because people are favoring the pinion angle slightly.

If you end up doing this this you better take tons of pics and make a solid write up for us.

turning c's is best left to a qualified shop w/ the right tools & knowledge if you want it done absolutely correct. its not just about caster , its camber too.

Camber it not a huge concern with the factory inner C's as they are a press fit and pretty much impossible to not get them square on the tube. That being said, they are extremely difficult to rotate due to be pressed on and therefore you risk bending the inner C's when pounding on them with the sledge. I was able to accomplish it on my JKR D44 but it was definitely not a task for the amateur... I was probably in a little over my head to be honest.

Shopping cart caster with my JKR44 set up with the perches welded to give me a good pinion angle.



Caster after rotating the inner C's. Right at 4* for a factory JK.



I measured the caster from the top balljoint perch.



Factory weld ground out... a lengthy task.



Re-welded with my Millermatic 211 autoset.



I added some JCR gussets because I didnt trust my welding... That being said, its held up without issue after multiple offroad trips!



The only reason I went with JK Rubicon 44's...

no need for pre/post heat for welding "c's" they are forged and not cast.
although you'll need a ton of heat and quite a bit of cutting to get the "C's" to move in the first place.

I would buy a dana 30 axle sleeve kit, chop both your tubes off the D30, turn it to whatever caster you want, bolt the whole thing up and burn it in. cake