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Hi, I bought a new project xj which I really want to have the engine rebuild. I want to do it myself as a learning experience but was thinking while I am there why don't just stroke it? I came across the Clegg engine poor mas stroker kit at a reasonable price(don't want to spend 6k on car that basically got for free).
The kit comes with:Sealed Power Hypereutectic Coated Dish Pistons -15.1cc #H825CPCast Piston Rings #E667Scat Enterprises 9000 Series Performance Cast Steel Crankshaft 3.895" Stroke #9-4.2L-3895Connecting Rods 4.2L 258ci 5.875" NewKing Connecting Rod & Main Bearing Set
Then it gives me these options:
Upgrades
No Upgrades
Hastings Moly Piston Rings + $30.00
Clevite Bearings + $60.00
ARP Connecting Rod Bolts + $90.00
Balance Rotating Assembly + $130.00
Custom Autotec Forged Pistons + $160.00
Icon Forged Pistons + $79.95
Add-Ons
No Add-Ons
6 Fuel Injectors (24LBS) + $199.95
Engine Assembly Lube Permatex + $4.95
Engine Year
Bore Size
Not realy sure what options to choose. Would I need to bore or can I just keep my current bore size and do the rest? The is not much info on youtube about the poor man's stroker.
Please advise if there is additional steps involved.
Again I want to do it myself and have plenty of time to play with this project.
The one thing I have done on all the engine I have built is Balance Rotating Assembly .and then maybe Hastings Moly Piston Rings , and you will need the 24lbs injectors but I think if you shop around you can find a better price .But all this is what I would do .
The one thing I have done on all the engine I have built is Balance Rotating Assembly .and then maybe Hastings Moly Piston Rings , and you will need the 24lbs injectors but I think if you shop around you can find a better price .But all this is what I would do .
It would be nice to find a better price. Will have to keep searching
Id definitely drop the block off and have the cylinders Re rounded. Bore the minimum.
Also maybe do a Deck on the block just enough to true it. Also surface head.
Then pinch pennies everywhere else. Its just a tractor Mill treat it as such.
Could also skip the stroker have crank measured to see what bearings it needs.
There might be nearly free power gains in the head.
Research bowl blending and un shrowding the valves.
You might be suprised what a fresh bottom end and head does with minor porting.
Lots of ways to go. Stroking isnt really neccassary in my opion
Id definitely drop the block off and have the cylinders Re rounded. Bore the minimum.
Also maybe do a Deck on the block just enough to true it. Also surface head.
Then pinch pennies everywhere else. Its just a tractor Mill treat it as such.
Could also skip the stroker have crank measured to see what bearings it needs.
There might be nearly free power gains in the head.
Research bowl blending and un shrowding the valves.
You might be suprised what a fresh bottom end and head does with minor porting.
Lots of ways to go. Stroking isnt really neccassary in my opion
IT WAS NEVER A TRACTOR MOTOR!!!!
You're confusing it with those British pieces of ****!!
I rebuilt a 4.0 and considering the end cost of building a stock one vs building a minor stroker. It makes sense to stroke it. Definitely take it to a machine shop have them bore the cylinders. That’s free power there.
Did you get ever buy and install this kit from clegg if so how did that go?? How was their customer service who did you talk too??
Sorry, but old thread from 2yrs ago. So I doubt you'll recieve an answer from the OP.
Originally Posted by Arksxj
I rebuilt a 4.0 and considering the end cost of building a stock one vs building a minor stroker. It makes sense to stroke it. Definitely take it to a machine shop have them bore the cylinders. That’s free power there.
Our engines get stroked for more low end TQ, not more HP. But yes, it is a worthwile upgrade with OEM parts. Use a 4.2L (258cid) crankshaft (make sure it is the "short snout" style, not the "long snout" or else you will have to machine the snout fown a little.) and stock 4.2L (258cid) rods. This will give you 4.5L, "The poor mans stroker). Boring the cylinders a little will put you at 4.6L.
Not realy sure what options to choose. Would I need to bore or can I just keep my current bore size and do the rest? The is not much info on youtube about the poor man's stroker.
Please advise if there is additional steps involved.
Again I want to do it myself and have plenty of time to play with this project.[/QUOTE]
Ive Purchased dozens of Stroker kits from Cleggs. Tyson is my Rep there and I’ve never had any issues. Usually you have to bore your block to the piston you’re going with. I think a fresh bore with a new hone will pay dividends later down the road then staying STD. You can reach out anytime if you have any questions, I’ve built many strokers and Cleggs by far is the best bang for the Buck IMHO!