Hey, guys. Just got a new job recently, so I've been looking at overhaul kits for my 2.5 and I'm stuck between which one to get....I'm pretty sure all it needs are new rod bearings (knock at warm idle w/ somewhat low oil pressure), but I don't know if anything else needs replaced. Almost 180K miles on the clock, so I'm sure there is.

I was on Clegg Engines and they have both the Re-ring kit (all gaskets/seals, rod and main bearings, along with rings) and a Standard Engine Kit (all gaskets/seals, Pistons, Rings, Rod Bearings, Main Bearings, Oil Pump, Freeze Plugs). Re-Ring is about $120, while the Standard Kit is $286.

I can see how the Standard would probably be better, and since the engine would be out ANYWAY, I also think it'd be the better option. I know the crank would need to go to a machine shop, and maybe the block too for the mains? If that's the case, might as well have it bored and prepped for a rebuild anyway.

Another question about the process is if I should have work done to the head as well. As far as I know, there's nothing wrong with it, but what would you guys recommend be done to it, if anything? I appreciate the help, guys!

 

Once you have the engine out, it's a no-brainer to do the whole thing. You have no idea what else in there needs to be rebuilt until you get into it.

The only way I'd do just bearings would be if I HAD to do the bearings, and just did not have the time and money to pull the engine. I'd drop the pan and do the bearings from the bottom end.

For me, once the engine is out, it's going to get a complete rebuild.

Done right, you'll have a better than new engine when you're done.

 

Thanks, Blue! I had a feeling someone would agree with doing the rebuild option and I decided I will, considering the engine would be out anyway. Only thing I'm worried about is down time since it's my DD, but there's another vehicle I could use to get to work. One more question....Do I want to order the rebuild kit w/ the oversize for the pistons and bearings I want, or does the machine shop determine that?

 

Have you considered a 4.0 swap?

 

You should always wait and ask the machine shop what the minimum oversize to clean everything up would be then order based on what they tell you. Have you considered a 4.0 swap as Jerry suggested? You could get more power out of it and it'll probably cost about the same to rebuild as your 2.5L. A 4.0 block you can get for cheap ($100-$200)

 

I was thinking just as a direct swap, you can find a full 4.0 drivetrain for about that much. Then you'll just need all the proper wiring, ecm and what not. I'm not sure what's involved with the 2.5 so I don't know what needs to be changed. You'll get much more from a tired 4.0 than you will from your 2.5. I wouldn't spend any more money on it.

Your motor is gas not diesel right? V6 or 4banger?

 

I have thought about it, but I really like my Four Angry Squirrels. It gets really good gas mileage compared to my brother's '89 with the 4.0, but it's probably because he's got over 320K on the clock. In fact, we went out to our local SVRA and played around for about four hours (just got home, in fact).

When we left home, I had JUST under half a talk, probably about 9.5 gallons. After hammering on it, hitting high RPM climbing rocks and all, drove home and still have about 6.5 to 7 gallons right now. Pretty good, if you ask me!

It is gas and a four banger. Eventually after I move to where I want to in Montana, I'm gonna get a 4BT and NV3550 to swap in. I know the 4.0 is a GREAT motor, but since we don't know how to weld in new motor mounts or anything that we'd need to, I'd rather not do an engine swap right now.

 

Well thats understandable. But definatly after going through all the work of pulling the engine I would say rebuild the whole thing so you get more life out of it

 

That's what I'm planning now, a full rebuild. Would it be wise to replace the head as well, or just have it checked out at the machine shop I have do the bore and bearings? Doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it, visually anyway. That doesn't mean nothing truly is....I know I'd want to have it check for warpage, but is there anything else that would be highly recommended?

 

Make sure to have the machinist check it for any cracks.

 

Ah, that's what I was trying to think of, cracks! Lol thank you! Again, doesn't mean there aren't, but I'm decently sure there's not since it doesn't burn any coolant or anything.