So I did the Bendix 9 delete on my 91 XJ. It all went great until I drove it the next day.
The brakes locked up after shutting down for gas. I had to back out the relief nut on the back of the prop valve, and let some fluid out to release the brakes.

When I did the delete I used OEM 95 XJ double booster and master cylinder. I removed all ABS electronics.

Now I can hear and smell the brakes partially applied. I think its the fronts because I rarely get death wobble until after doing the abs delete. Could this be affecting wheel speed by having one brake partially engaged? And magnify the wobble?
I used the original prop valve from the Bendix system. Do I need a new prop valve? Booster push rod too long? After I drive for awhile and build up vacuum the pedal is rock hard. Any thoughts?

 

When I did my swap I used the newer prop valve and it seemed to work. I did have an issue with the length of the push rod, the new one was longer. Did you compare the length of the portion of the rod that stuck into the cab before you installed the new booster? They need to be close to the same depth or the pedal may be slightly engaging which could cause some drag.

 

The pedal seems to be located in the same position and the rods were so close I couldnt tell them apart. The fronts are definately partly engaged. I nearly overheated the otherday from the increased drag I think. All the lit I read on the abs delete says the 95 dual booster is a direct swap. Am I mistaken? They fit like they were meant to be there...the booster to pedal.

 

loosen master from booster see if brakes release ,If so adjustment of rod inside booster is needed....

 

Okay After letting some fluid out and bleeding, refilling, bleeding all seems well. I have good pedal movement and the thing stops awesome. I feel like the delete was a success EXCEPT...I can still hear, feel and smell the front brakes partly engaged.

It hasnt completely locked up again and everything visually looks fine. still smoking the front brakes.

 

What were the brakes like before the swap? Did you just replace to upgrade? Did you check to see if the calipers were moving freely and no problems with the slide pins or piston? Have you checked all lines for any crimping? Did you loosen the master from the booster as suggested previously?