I have a 2001 XJ, lifted about 3 inches. My original ball joints are shot and sound like something trying to pound itself out from under the hood! (On bumpy roads)
Any suggestions? Looked at Rock Auto and there's some for lifted Jeeps. It's not that significant a lift but will say the knocking sound wasn't there til after I installed the lift.
Question is...... Do I need the ball joints for lifted Jeeps? Or stick with stockers?

Thank You!!

 

Dont cheap out on ball joints. It's not a fun job to do yourself and not a cheap job if you pay someone else to do it.

I've had good luck with Moog parts. I'm sure most people here will say Spicer and cant disagree. Make sure they are greasable.

 

You do not need ball joints "for lifted Jeeps". Not really sure what you're getting at there. Some manufacturers do make heavy duty joints but I've heard good and bad about them. I'd get Spicers.

I blew out the rubber boot on two brand new Moog ball joints while greasing them. Like, they ballooned out and popped. I thought you were supposed to pump grease into them until it starts to come out of the seam but I successfully ruined two new ball joints before putting any miles on them.

Not sure if that was an issue with the parts or if I greased them incorrectly.

 

Get Spicer ball joints.

 

Spicers. [/endtread]

 

Spicer or Moog are typically good quality replacements. There are other high end aftermarket joints but unless you're running 35" tires and hitting the trails hard they are more than you need to spend.

 

i'm with everyone. plain ol spicers or moog work just fine. no need to buy into the lifted type.

but check everything you installed. doubt it's a ball joint. they usually only croak and groan when turning usually in/out of your driveway.

sounds like you may have a loose shock or control arm bushing. was the lift components all new when you installed them?

 

Lift was brand new from RC. I double checked everything on install.
Looked at the ball joints and they're original equipment.
Shouldn't be too hard to replace. Do I need greasable? Or just get Spicer or Moog and be done with it?

 

Spicers will be servicable on top and nonserviceable on the bottom just like OEM. Because they are OEM.

 

I got brand new upper and lower Spicer's on Ebay for like 60 bucks total (one side). But not sure that's the problem the OP is having. Sway links?

 

I used NAPA before and no issues. Maybe the ball joints for lifted vehicles he’s referring to is offset ones?? Either way they aren’t needed.
They could clunk over bumps if they were so bad they were about to fall apart but then you would notice that in other situations as well.

Go through and check all of your bolts are tightened. For sure check the nut on the top of the shocks. Also body side control arm bushings. It could also be the drive train moving around and the T case linkage contacting the floor.

Also did you keep the factory sway bar links on? Maybe they’re too short now and something is making contact where it shouldn’t be.

 

I'm getting pretty bad tire wear on the driver side. Similar to "feathering" if you will. And it pulls to the driver side as well.
All bolts are tight so, can't see another issue.
I kept the original upper control arms and installed the new lower control arms that came with the kit.

 

I know its a bit old, but the sound you are referring to sound like standard bar pin noise. See if the bottom of your front shocks are able to move back and forth. They tend to bounce back and forth real fast on rough roads and sounds like somethjng is hitting the bottom of the floorboards really fast. Tire wear and pulling is likely the brake pad slides grooved making them bind or caliper sticking.

 

did you get an alignment after the lift? that will help in your tire wear and pulling issue.

one sure way to check your ball joints, is to jack up each tire, one side at a time, a couple of inches off the ground, and use a long prybar or jack handle under the tire and try to lift the tire up. you may need to get rough with it, but if your ball joint is bad, you will feel/hear it clunk.
while the tire is off the ground. you can grab the wheel at 9 and 3, and 6 and 12 and wiggle to check for wheel bearing tightness. you should not feel any movement. should be tight so to speak.

to check the shock. lift each side with suspension hanging, and grab the shock. try to lift the shock up off the axle top and bottom and back and forth. again, be rough on it. it should not move or make sound.

to quickly check for control arm tightness, with the vehicle on the ground, foot on the brake, shift from drive to reverse with no throttle. if the bushings/bolts are not tight, the control arm will shift and make noise. you can sometimes feel it too.

otherwise, shake the steering wheel while someone is under the front end looking/feeling the hardparts for looseness or movement.