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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 12:57 PM
  #1  
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Default axle dilemma...

ok, i have 2 front D44's, both off waggys, a rear d44 off a waggy, and a 8.0" toyota rear with e-locker. i have all the brckets for a d44 front to put under my xj. front are 61" rears are 60".

yesterday i was given a warn front hub kit for a cj d44, 27spline alloy (outer) shafts and warn premium locking hubs for free with bearings spindles and hub and rotors. however the outer shafts are shorter then the 29 splin waggys (so i have read) so i would have to use the cj stuff to make it work, which leaves me at 5x5.5 in the front. and 6-5.5 in the back... should i sell my other axles and get a ford 9"? or get a cheaper 8.8 and run adapeters for correct width? but then i have to crop it down to 60" $$$$$ what is the best way to make things work? or should i ditch the warn kit and run stock stubs and get a different warn hubs? hmmm... anyone have advice for this?

Last edited by Gorillaxj; Jan 23, 2011 at 11:48 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:36 PM
  #2  
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you could always use adapters in the rear or have your shafts drilled out with the new lug pattern, or buy aftermarket shafts with the correct lug pattern..

and aren't waggy outers 19 spline?
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
ok, i have 2 front D44's, both off waggys, a rear d44 off a waggy, and a 8.4" toyota rear with e-locker. i have all the brckets for a d44 front to put under my xj. front are 61" rears are 60".

yesterday i was given a warn front hub kit for a cj d44, 27spline moly (outer) shafts and warn premium locking hubs for free with bearings spindles and hub and rotors. however the outer shafts are shorter then the 29 splin waggys (so i have read) so i would have to use the cj stuff to make it work, which leaves me at 5x5.5 in the front. and 6-5.5 in the back... should i sell my other axles and get a ford 9"? or get a cheaper 8.8 and run adapeters for correct width? but then i have to crop it down to 60" $$$$$ what is the best way to make things work? or should i ditch the warn kit and run stock stubs and get a different warn hubs? hmmm... anyone have advice for this?
Toyota didnt make an 8.4 elocker. The 8.4 only came open or with the TRD limited slip. The elocker was considered an 8.0 I believe. The elocker version is not quite as strong as the 8.4. The e locker and the 8.4 found in the tacomas are 60" wide- almost identical to the width of the rear used in an xj. Only problem is toyota uses 6 lugs hubs on their 4x4's

Last edited by knuckleduster271; Jan 23, 2011 at 11:08 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 11:26 PM
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I have been thinking of re-drilling the rear for a 5x5.5 pattern to match the front. just not 100% sure I want to do that, and if its "the best way" for me.

Correct, waggy D44's are 19 spline on the outer stubs in the front, and 30 spline at the diff. thats why I want to run the 27 alloy Spline kit I have with matching hubs, spindles and hub with the big bearing kit.

yeah sorry, I miss read something that said it was a 8.4. either way. I have a 60" Toyota rear with the E-locker. bonus that its locked. which makes me want to go this way, plus it doesn't have the neck down in the shaft like the d44 rear shafts do.

adapters could work but if I am 60" in the back and 61" up front I don't want the rear wider then the front...

I guess for what I want re-drilling the shafts/drums on the Toyota axle is my best bet. just curious if there is a better option.

I am putting a D44 6x5.5(stock stubs/hubs), or 5x5.5(warn 27 spline alloy stubs and hubs) in the front depending on the front stub/hub combo I pick.

Last edited by Gorillaxj; Jan 23, 2011 at 11:46 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 07:16 AM
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Those toyota axles are very strong. The elockers are decent but the actuators tend to foul up once in a while when exposed to deep mud and sand. I know in a toyota the elocker only works in 4 low unless you do a "graywire" mod which will allow the locker to perform when ever the switch is in the on position. Most toyota enthusiast choose the 8.4 with an arb in because of their legendary strength. One nice thing about toyota axles os they have a drop out third member simular to a 9" ford which make working one them pretty easy.
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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I am in the process of rebuilding a toyota 8 inch E-locker with 4.30 gears stock and a waggy dana 44. I think this will be a great swap especially after pulling apart my E-locker and seeing just how beefy it is. The Toyota is the same if not stronger than the dana 44 when placed side by side. my suggestion would be to setup your waggy with the 6 lug pattern and go through with the toyota the waggy parts are cheap (I got Warn hubs for $100)the worst part is re gearing especially since you already have the bracket kit. I am also looking into a homebrewed rear disk setup for the toy using pathfinder brakes. but IMHO you can't compare a ford 8.8 with c clips and 4.10 lsd if your lucky to a toyota 3rd member style rear with either 4.10 or 4.30 gears stock and a selectable locker. I'm surprised more jeepers running waggy fronts don't go to toyota rear, in my mind its the best option.
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 09:11 PM
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yeah. i know the in's and out's of the toy axle. I am a master tech at toyota. Just miss read the ring gear size on a different website. i love the toy axles and wiring the e-locket is simple. thats why this is a hard choice. i want the 6x5.5 for the toyo rear.... but also the stronger shafts and hubs...

but either way, I ended up taking a lot of measurments and pluging the 5x5.5 hub with welds, then redrilled it to 6x5.5 lug pattern and using the wagoneer disk with toyota studs. So I now have a wag D44 front with 30 spline inner and 27 spline alloy outer stubs and warn 27 spline locking hubs and matching lug studs front and rear(wich also hug the hub in about an inch to 1 1/2 inches closer to the wheel then a stock waggy). I am regearing. I only want to have them apart once. so i am doing it all now. i will be running 4.56 gears and 33's for now Maybe 35's if i end up with another DD. but as of now 33's are all i need to do what I enjoy and be a comfy DD. I am going to run a full locker up front, and the E-locker in the rear. i know they can be a headache with wet/mud/sand but i think even a front locker will be enough for what i liek to do (as of now) and i come across toyota 3rd memebers/locked and unlocked all the time for free... so its a win-win.

next up is a long arm... once the money sitch recovers from the gears/axles/locker/rims/tires.... ect... lol
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