Axle
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 682
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From: Elk River, Minnesota
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Nothing wrong strength wise with the LP30 its just gonna get hung up on more crap threw out the day. Eric is right though a 44 for the front and an 8.8 for the rear.
Last edited by outkast; Jun 2, 2011 at 10:19 AM. Reason: Spelling
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 309
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From: Wrightstown, NJ
Year: 1986 Comanche
Engine: Chevy 350
A 30LP and 30HP both grab the same amount of teeth as the ratios yield the same number of pinion and ring teeth. The difference is when a LP is put in the front, the gears are driven on the coast side of the tooth instead of the drive side. With the HP, the teeth are spiraled in the opposite direction which causes the gears to ride on the drive side now. The axles themselves are the same strength (assuming same years with same axles/u-joints) but the gears are a good bit stronger.
There is also nothing with a Dana 30HP for the front with 35's. As long as you don't do stupid stuff or you truss the axle, then the axle will survive. If you really beat on it, you can upgrade to alloy axles and larger u-joints. It is much cheaper and easier to make the 30 survive 35" tires than it is to swap in a Dana 44.
As for the rear, the 8.8 is your best bet. You can grab one with disk brakes already and you can get 4.11's from the factory. If you really wanted to, you can even get a limited slip in there as some Explorers came with that from the factory. This will require a lot of brackets to be welded on though since you have coils in the rear. The other choice is a Dana 44 out of a ZJ, this will atleast bolt right in and is the correct width.
There is also nothing with a Dana 30HP for the front with 35's. As long as you don't do stupid stuff or you truss the axle, then the axle will survive. If you really beat on it, you can upgrade to alloy axles and larger u-joints. It is much cheaper and easier to make the 30 survive 35" tires than it is to swap in a Dana 44.
As for the rear, the 8.8 is your best bet. You can grab one with disk brakes already and you can get 4.11's from the factory. If you really wanted to, you can even get a limited slip in there as some Explorers came with that from the factory. This will require a lot of brackets to be welded on though since you have coils in the rear. The other choice is a Dana 44 out of a ZJ, this will atleast bolt right in and is the correct width.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,420
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
A 30LP and 30HP both grab the same amount of teeth as the ratios yield the same number of pinion and ring teeth. The difference is when a LP is put in the front, the gears are driven on the coast side of the tooth instead of the drive side. With the HP, the teeth are spiraled in the opposite direction which causes the gears to ride on the drive side now. The axles themselves are the same strength (assuming same years with same axles/u-joints) but the gears are a good bit stronger.
There is also nothing with a Dana 30HP for the front with 35's. As long as you don't do stupid stuff or you truss the axle, then the axle will survive. If you really beat on it, you can upgrade to alloy axles and larger u-joints. It is much cheaper and easier to make the 30 survive 35" tires than it is to swap in a Dana 44.
As for the rear, the 8.8 is your best bet. You can grab one with disk brakes already and you can get 4.11's from the factory. If you really wanted to, you can even get a limited slip in there as some Explorers came with that from the factory. This will require a lot of brackets to be welded on though since you have coils in the rear. The other choice is a Dana 44 out of a ZJ, this will atleast bolt right in and is the correct width.
There is also nothing with a Dana 30HP for the front with 35's. As long as you don't do stupid stuff or you truss the axle, then the axle will survive. If you really beat on it, you can upgrade to alloy axles and larger u-joints. It is much cheaper and easier to make the 30 survive 35" tires than it is to swap in a Dana 44.
As for the rear, the 8.8 is your best bet. You can grab one with disk brakes already and you can get 4.11's from the factory. If you really wanted to, you can even get a limited slip in there as some Explorers came with that from the factory. This will require a lot of brackets to be welded on though since you have coils in the rear. The other choice is a Dana 44 out of a ZJ, this will atleast bolt right in and is the correct width.
Last edited by xjmarc; Jun 2, 2011 at 07:30 PM.
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