Another radiator thread
#1
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Year: 1997
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Another radiator thread
Hello, I have a 1997 country xj with a 3" lift and 31's. Stock axles and gears, no tow package. I added a tranny cooler in front of the radiator so I could pull my pop up camper. So normally the temp is fine but when pulling the camper in the summer with ac on and temps around 100F it gets warm. Also when wheeling in the Mountains of colorado it can get warm as well. I need to replace my radiator because part of the plastic drain thing broke off inside the unit. Whats everybody doing about upgrading the factory radiator? I really dont want hood vents btw.
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
A general overhaul of the cooling system may be beneficial. In both my Cherokee and Comanche I've been running generic parts store radiators and don't have a problem. Make sure you have a complete fan shroud on your mechanical fan and that the electric fan is working properly. Replace the water pump and hoses and flush the block and heater hoses with a hose pipe the best you can and it will probably run cooler just from refreshing all the parts. Also might as well throw in a radiator cap and thermostat since they're a few bucks each.
#4
Fan relay
Generic off Amazon
Champion Off eBay
Radiator hose adapter
Man. My champion aluminum radiator with three electric fans is awesome. Never goes above 180.But what a headache for me. To me it was a lot of work but was so worth it. First generic aluminium one from amazon fit good exept for the tranny line. I return it Because the fitting lines were made of cheap brass and sucked. But you would probably plug yours of because you have an external tranny cooler. Ialso had to wire in a dual relay system with electronic temp sensor. I wired two fans to the relay system with a manual bypass switch under the dash and the third fan that turns on with the a/c. There were no more openings for the new temp sensor for the relay system .so I had to get an in-line 30mm upper radiator hose adapter. It has a 1/8 npt thread. See pic. I also found a 180 off and on sensor. The champion one I got needed radiator support mods but that was just a matter of cutting it down across the top and around the cap.and I had to remove the studs and use bolts on my serpentine belt tensioner Because it hit the electric fans. Like the previous guy said. Replace the water pump, thermostat,upper and lower hoses ,cap and flush the system. Make sure you use the correct temp thermostat I didn’t the first time.If you do flush your system, use the prestone flush. I used an heavy duty cleaner in my 1996 and my heater core started leaking because the heavy duty chemical flush ate up the heater core. I would also get a new clutch for the clutch fan. I had two Cherokees that got warmer under load then I wanted. Both clutchs were hard to tell but were slightly going out. Once I replaced the clutch I never had a problem again.Hopefully you or someone else can use some of what I wrote.
Last edited by Freddysxj; 02-02-2019 at 08:03 AM.
#5
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Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by Freddysxj
Fan relay
Generic off Amazon
Champion Off eBay
Radiator hose adapter
Man. My champion aluminum radiator with three electric fans is awesome. Never goes above 180.But what a headache for me. To me it was a lot of work but was so worth it. First generic aluminium one from amazon fit good exept for the tranny line. I return it Because the fitting lines were made of cheap brass and sucked. But you would probably plug yours of because you have an external tranny cooler. Ialso had to wire in a dual relay system with electronic temp sensor. I wired two fans to the relay system with a manual bypass switch under the dash and the third fan that turns on with the a/c. There were no more openings for the new temp sensor for the relay system .so I had to get an in-line 30mm upper radiator hose adapter. It has a 1/8 npt thread. See pic. I also found a 180 off and on sensor. The champion one I got needed radiator support mods but that was just a matter of cutting it down across the top and around the cap.and I had to remove the studs and use bolts on my serpentine belt tensioner Because it hit the electric fans. Like the previous guy said. Replace the water pump, thermostat,upper and lower hoses ,cap and flush the system. Make sure you use the correct temp thermostat I didn’t the first time.If you do flush your system, use the prestone flush. I used an heavy duty cleaner in my 1996 and my heater core started leaking because the heavy duty chemical flush ate up the heater core. I would also get a new clutch for the clutch fan. I had two Cherokees that got warmer under load then I wanted. Both clutchs were hard to tell but were slightly going out. Once I replaced the clutch I never had a problem again.Hopefully you or someone else can use some of what I wrote.
#6
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
Last year I did a ton of research on cooling system upgrades and ultimately ended up buying OEM parts. Aluminum radiators have very hit or miss reviews unless you spend the coin for a Griffin. You also could get a Mopar HD radiator but they're pricey and hard to find. I advocate picking up a Spectre brand OEM rad from Autozone. Cheap and lifetime warranty. If you read up you'll find many people recommend the same.
Also I'd like to reiterate the importance of an intact fan shroud, strong fan clutch, and functional electric fan. Don't be tempted to buy a thermostat cooler than 190°. The system was designed to run at 190°, not 180°.
Cooling system maintenance is important. Stay ahead of it.
Also I'd like to reiterate the importance of an intact fan shroud, strong fan clutch, and functional electric fan. Don't be tempted to buy a thermostat cooler than 190°. The system was designed to run at 190°, not 180°.
Cooling system maintenance is important. Stay ahead of it.
#7
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Year: 1997
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Thanks
Well yes I would like to avoid having to modify a bunch under the hood since I drive from Texas to Colorado and wheel it every once n a while. I have not flushed the system with a cleaner yet and I have had it for 8 years oops. The water pump and thermostate were changed about 25000mi ago. I have flushed with hose water every 2 years. I will get a new fan clutch as that's not been changed radiator cap and a specter radiator. My electric fan is working great and the shroud is intact. If anyone else has some tips keep them coming.
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#8
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Year: 1998 (buggy), 1998 DD
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I'd also be unhappy with it running at 180* all the time, since you're losing efficiency in your engine.
I've gone through more cooling systems than you can shake a stick at between jeeps owned and jeeps flipped/sold.
General parts store stuff has never failed me, but I also go well above and beyond what most do for a complete flush (It can take half a day or more).
The only vehicle that runs slightly "hot" would be my wife's '96, but I'm 99.9% certain it's the temp sender, not the system itself.
OP, there's a good (recent) thread on NAXJA going through all sorts of radiators for an XJ (from Mopar, to Mishimoto, to parts store) I would recommend looking at.
Most people, should be fine with a parts store radiator (as long as it was made correctly) being sufficient for cooling.
#9
I have to agree that a good quality stock $120 radiator is sufficient enough for most. Not for me. But for an extra $250 and about 4 hours of labor. It was so worth it to me. You always run into snags along the way. That’s four wheeling. At least I got a refund on on my crappy radiator and only lost about $50 and a couple hours because I went to cheap.The nice part about it is I just brought my cherokee out of the Stone Age. I have never liked dealing with clutch fans and plastic fan shrouds. Freerder15,I don’t know why you are saying that a constant 180 degrees is inefficient. We can agree to disagree. All my jeep Cherokees I have owned ran between 195 and 200. My jeep runs way better at 180. But that 180 is during the winter. Nothing under the hood gets as hot now. I used to be able to fry an egg on the hood and when I ran it for a couple hours, I would almost burn my hand trying to open the hood. That 15 to 20 degrees make a big difference everywhere.
#10
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Originally Posted by Freddysxj
I have to agree that a good quality stock $120 radiator is sufficient enough for most. Not for me. But for an extra $250 and about 4 hours of labor. It was so worth it to me. You always run into snags along the way. That’s four wheeling. At least I got a refund on on my crappy radiator and only lost about $50 and a couple hours because I went to cheap.The nice part about it is I just brought my cherokee out of the Stone Age. I have never liked dealing with clutch fans and plastic fan shrouds. Freerder15,I don’t know why you are saying that a constant 180 degrees is inefficient. We can agree to disagree. All my jeep Cherokees I have owned ran between 195 and 200. My jeep runs way better at 180. But that 180 is during the winter. Nothing under the hood gets as hot now. I used to be able to fry an egg on the hood and when I ran it for a couple hours, I would almost burn my hand trying to open the hood. That 15 to 20 degrees make a big difference everywhere.
#11
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The best cooling setup in my opinion is a properly working factory cooling system and radiator with a fan clutch off of a 4cly to pull more air, and the elecric fan on a switch. As said before the 3 core radiators and all electric fan setup is hit and miss, some people like them and others have nothing but problems with them.
#12
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Year: 1998 (buggy), 1998 DD
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Freerder15,I don’t know why you are saying that a constant 180 degrees is inefficient. We can agree to disagree. All my jeep Cherokees I have owned ran between 195 and 200. My jeep runs way better at 180. But that 180 is during the winter. Nothing under the hood gets as hot now. I used to be able to fry an egg on the hood and when I ran it for a couple hours, I would almost burn my hand trying to open the hood. That 15 to 20 degrees make a big difference everywhere.
Trust me when I say that the operating temp for a 4.0 is ~210°F, and there's a reason for it. The engineers behind the motor didn't just arbitrarily pick that number, or just get it and accept it.
It all ties in as well, to what your emissions system is reading, injector input, etc.
Your system is likely effects from your motor running 30°F off, you just might not be directly noticing them.
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