I see well thanks for that. And how necessary are the disconnects if I'm only using this for light trails and as a DD?

 

Not at all necessary.

 

Disconnects aren't necessary, but you do need longer swaybar links at 3"

 

Yeah if you don't think they will hurt i'm probably not going to waste 110$ on them. How does the lift ride so far?

 

I was able to install the swaybar on the factory links after I did the lift, but I agree it was less than ideal.

 

You can connect it, but it doesn't work at that angle

 

You both are referring to only the front sway bar correct? Do you have the rear removed?

 

Is this the part I need to make the sway bar angle correct?
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-...drop-pair.html

 

The rear is practically useless, even stock. You won't miss it. Many XJs didn't even come with one.

You want "extended swaybar links" with or without the disconnect feature. The original bushings in your swaybar links are almost definitely shot anyway, so you might as well replace the 'worn out part that isn't long enough for your lift' with a new part that is the correct length and has new bushings.

 

Figure out a longer link as NewKind suggests. Also, I removed the rear sway bar altogether.

The ride is great, but of course a bit more truck-like on road than before. I did get HD front springs to accommodate for the front bumper I put on, and I also installed a tire carrier rear bumper and carry a fair amount of gear, gas and water, so even with the IRO adjustable shackles the rear settled in fairly quickly. From what I understand leafs work better flattened out, so I'm glad I have another 1" or so adjustment to go with those IRO shackles. I was offroad in the desert for a few days before I installed the front disconnects, and the rear felt nice and flexy. Can't wait to try it out with the front disconnected

Also, I had to chase down some thumps and clunks, which ended up being a combo of worn sway bar bushings, noises from the old track bar and steering stabilizer, possibly the poor interface between the front sway bar and the stock links, and a "loose" heim in the pass side lower control arm.

 

Gotcha! I'm searching around for them now. If the price for the extended is almost as high as the disconnects could I just get those and not have to get the extended? Or do I need to combo them somehow? I'll def remove the rear then.

On a total side note.. I seriously can't wait to turn my old leaf springs into knives.. A little hobby of mine.

 

I have a warn winch brush guard w/out the winch for now> I believe i'm getting the hd coils as well.

 

I got Rusty's disconnects. They act as extenders. They are adjustable, and great quality, but I couldn't adjust mine as short as I needed them to be, and had to modify them.

 

Can you explain how you modified them? Sorry for the million questions. I just want to be absolutely sure I get all the right parts and not have to return anything. Or leave something out that is drastically needed.

 

You can buy extended links or disconnects. Disconnects are links that have been built to spec for different lift heights AND have the quick disconnect feature. Most widely recommended is the JKS Quicker Disconnect. I'm a big fan, but they're a little pricey.