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****. I haven't torqued any of the bolts yet and there's not even a driveshaft connected. I wonder if it's because my driveshaft isn't connected... It could allow the axle/ shock mounts to rotate and change the geometry. IDK I do but its not connected yet.
You sure maybe the shackle bolts on one side weren't just tight enough to allow the shackle not to want to move gain at the spring? Hence why you don't want to torque the bolts until he vehicle is sitting on the ground. Just a thought. That sounds strange. Did the springs sit even before installed?
Later lift changes require re-measure and different length driveshaft.
Not necessarily, on leaf sprung axles the travel is mostly vertical, the slip-yoke on the rear will have less movement than the front drive shaft where the axle travels in an arc. The exception is a leaf pack that has excessive arch.
Once lifted and the proper sized driveshaft is installed, there is some allowable deviation in lift height.
Originally Posted by ExpeditionXJ
I just finished installing my rear suspension. The passenger side droops 3" lower than the driver side when the axle is hanging freely (jack stands on the frame). Is this normal?
X2 for brake line. If driver side of axle is hung up, main soft brake line (picture). If passenger side, e-brake.
I'm about to order an SYE for my stock but soon to be lifted '89 XJ. Manufacturer Advance Adapters. Brief description says the needle bearings need to be removed from the stock drive sprockets in my early NP231. Will this require removal of the transfer case?
Thanks!
Last edited by ElMartillo; Jan 18, 2016 at 10:13 AM.
Not necessarily, on leaf sprung axles the travel is mostly vertical, the slip-yoke on the rear will have less movement than the front drive shaft where the axle travels in an arc. The exception is a leaf pack that has excessive arch.
Once lifted and the proper sized driveshaft is installed, there is some allowable deviation in lift height.
X2 for brake line. If driver side of axle is hung up, main soft brake line (picture). If passenger side, e-brake.
There's no brake line connected. The axle sits level when the shocks are disconnected. The driver side shock requires lifting that side of the axle 3 more inches than the passenger side in order to connect the shock. I'm going to take some measurements on the shock mounts. This is a new axle I've swapped in and it could be the culprit.
There's no brake line connected. The axle sits level when the shocks are disconnected. The driver side shock requires lifting that side of the axle 3 more inches than the passenger side in order to connect the shock. I'm going to take some measurements on the shock mounts. This is a new axle I've swapped in and it could be the culprit.
Your shocks are different lengths. Not a matching pair
Not necessarily, on leaf sprung axles the travel is mostly vertical, the slip-yoke on the rear will have less movement than the front drive shaft where the axle travels in an arc. The exception is a leaf pack that has excessive arch.
Once lifted and the proper sized driveshaft is installed, there is some allowable deviation in lift height.
They're comparable.
The arc of a 4-link suspension means the axle will get closer to the transfer case on the horizontal plane as it droops and further from the TC as it compresses. Except in extreme setups, very little movement is needed in each direction.
With leaf springs, there is a lot of variation based on leaf arch, leaf length, shackle angle, and shackle length. But again, in most cases the distances are inversely proportional.
I put new shocks and leaf springs on the rear of my 2001 2wd. It raised the rear a lot compared to the front and I put 1 1/2" spacers and new shocks and new stock springs on the front.
I have now replaced the spacers with 3" over coil springs and the front is higher than the rear which I expected. My plan was to put shackles on the rear. How would I measure the front and rear to know how much lift I need for the rear to level up. What are the best shackles to use for my pure highway application? I would think before measuring that the lift needs to be about an inch.
Your recommendations and advice is appreciated. Sandyman
I put new shocks and leaf springs on the rear of my 2001 2wd. It raised the rear a lot compared to the front and I put 1 1/2" spacers and new shocks and new stock springs on the front. I have now replaced the spacers with 3" over coil springs and the front is higher than the rear which I expected. My plan was to put shackles on the rear. How would I measure the front and rear to know how much lift I need for the rear to level up. What are the best shackles to use for my pure highway application? I would think before measuring that the lift needs to be about an inch. Your recommendations and advice is appreciated. Sandyman
I have some shackles that can either lift 1.5 or 2 inches depending on the setting. That is what I would get for your application personally.
I'm about to order an SYE for my stock but soon to be lifted '89 XJ. Manufacturer Advance Adapters. Brief description says the needle bearings need to be removed from the stock drive sprockets in my early NP231. Will this require removal of the transfer case?
Thanks!
Shouldn't HAVE to remove the case. But IMHO you're better off pulling the whole case regardless. It's nice to have it on a work bench rather than rolling around under the Jeep. It only takes about 45min to drop it anyways.
That's about what I have been thinking. What brand did you go with? Or what brand do you suggest. Thanks
Zone offroad makes good lift shackles
Iron Rock Offroad makes good ones as well called "boomerangs" that can be used in different configurations to alter the amount of lift as well as arc geometry
Iron Rock Offroad makes good ones as well called "boomerangs" that can be used in different configurations to alter the amount of lift as well as arc geometry
Boomerang shackles, or any other shackle shape, have nothing to do with the shackle angle. The fact that they're adjustable with multiple bolt hole heights let's you change the angle, but it's directly related to the length; not shape.
Just wanted to make that clear to anyone who doesn't know, cause it's a common misconception.
Not necessarily, on leaf sprung axles the travel is mostly vertical, the slip-yoke on the rear will have less movement than the front drive shaft where the axle travels in an arc. The exception is a leaf pack that has excessive arch.
Once lifted and the proper sized driveshaft is installed, there is some allowable deviation in lift height.
X2 for brake line. If driver side of axle is hung up, main soft brake line (picture). If passenger side, e-brake.
I'm not sure that's completely accurate. It depends on where the pivot point of the arc is. For example -) -I In the example on the right (leaf springs) the distance from the line changes drastically, not so much the example on the left. If the arc were reversed, it'd be a *****. Just a thought.
Just purchased an 01 XJ 4.0. I'm looking for a quality 3'' lift that includes EVERYTHING I need for a DYI. (minus the tools) Also, max tire size on a 15'' wheel that I will not need to cuy/roll fenders. I will be using it for light off-road, mostly beach and some trails. Thanks
Sep 21, 2015, 02:17 PM
