They're sweet. There is a reason they are priced like they are.

 

'01 XJ, just used on road and the beach- think I need a SYE? Don't know much about those, but keep seeming them mentioned in lift discussions.
Thanks in advance

 

What makes you think you need one? Are you experiencing driveline vibrations after replacing all U joints and checking the slip yoke?

 

No, getting ready to pull the trigger on the lift, and was wondering if I should also budget for a SYE.
Sounds like I install lift and see how it goes, then worry about that?
Thx,

 

I never thought I'd be asking a question like this but I want some opinions. I'm getting my 8.8 ready to install and I put 4.88s in it. Obviously that's too much gear for my 30s but I'm not scared of low gears so I want to go with 33s. I'm shopping and comparing obsessively, watching craigslist, amazon ebay... The only way I can afford tires and wheels is if I get some cheap steel wheels just for the smaller backspacing. I think my stock wheels are better quality than those, though. I will be cutting my fenders for clearance and the jeep has a little bit of lift, though I'm not sure how much (2.5-3"). What I'm getting at is do you think I could run 33"x10.50" on my stock ravine rims? I'll do what I need to but I'd like for this to work. However, if it won't, it would be nice to know before I try it.

 

Problem is not just the height but the width. At 10.5 on stock wheels you will rub your lower control arms without proper BS. You can always cut away enough fender to have the height part clear.

 

Yeah. I thought there might be something like that. At least I think I can get a pretty good bit back for my current wheels and tires since they're in great shape. I guess I'll get some steelies. Good thing is that I should be able to run 12.5s if I get new wheels, although it might be safer to just get 10.5s for clearance.

 

Yup. Depends on how much lift you do - might not need on. Even if you do you'll need to install the SYE and then measure for the DS anyway.

That said 3" or more it's a good idea.

 

Anyone ever use these or have any knowledge of them?

http://ironman4x4fab.com/Products/RLS.html

 

Andy makes some awesome products.

 

Cool, those look interesting. I'm curious if they work too lol

 

Those do look cool. But just by looking at them, it seems like the legenth of the shackle plus the relocation bracket would put hellatious lateral forces on the stock shackle boxes during off camber situations. Hope someone that has ran them chimes in.

 

^^^Looks like someone just did. As far as the lateral forces and whatnot - it doesn't seem it would be much different than the other relocation brackets I've seen. If you look closely at the picture, it looks like it has tie-ins to the frame - sandwhiched between the hitch and the rails. Probably should have left the hitch off for the pic. Honestly, my biggest concern I've see with such other boxes is that you can only flex so far before the shackle winds up hitting the bracket... these seem to sidestep that problem with the implementation of the round tubing.

 

A friend of mine has run the RC relocation brackets with those shackles for a while now and has had no problems at all. He beats on it pretty hard on and off the street.

 

Mercedes makes an awesome car. Does that mean I own one, or have driven one for any length of time? No.
I'm not really convinced by any of the bolt on shackle relocation boxes. I also am aware of how they mount between the hitch. It's simple the longer the lever before the fulcrum the greater the force. I wasn't picking on any manufacturer or set up. I was just curious about the longevity of these and other similar products. After all everyone thought that simple bolt on tire carrier rear bumpers were great until their uniframe cracked from the added leverage and lack of proper reinforcement. I'm not bashing I'm just looking for actual user feedback.