My '01 xj has a 3" lift. I plan on installing RC x-flex upper & lower ca's. my question is, will I need relocation/drop brackets with 3"?

 

I was only curious if it was possible. if i do trim (which is most likely) does that change your answer at all?

 

I recently bought a 2001 XJ that has a Rusty's 6.5 lift under it. Between 35 &40mph it tries to throw me out with what I would call a DEATH WOBBLE. Any suggestions on how to get rid of this? I don't feel safe driving it. Oh yea it also has 285/75R16 on new wrangler rims. Help please

 

How's your track bar? Are you running a double shear track bar with the drop bracket? Make sure there is no play in the track bar at any end of it. Other than that maybe wheels aren't balanced? Just check all your suspension components while you're at it make sure there's no play in anything

 

First mistake was buying an already eextremely lifted jeep. Check everything suspension wise to ball joints to the u bolts in the rear. DW is caused highly by worn suspension parts.

Now here's also a question to you, does the steering wheel shimy at 40 mph or does it happen only when you hit a bump at 40mph

 

CAD, control arm drop brackets require minimum 4" lift. Otherwise arm angles would be in the negative.
I have seen custom made drop brackets that would allow 3".
However, you should be fine with the arms only.

 

That's what I was hoping. Thanks!

 

I am getting ready to do some rust repair on my newly acquired XJ. Instead of getting raked over the coals on shipping for a pair of replacement quarters I have decided to just do a cut and fold like repair and open up the wheel arches 1.5". Yes I know that is above the spot welds and that I will have to close up the seam, but the rust almost gets up that high on the PS.

Right now it appears that my Cherokee sits about 1.5' taller in the back and 1" higher in the front over stock. I suspect that the PO just put stiffer springs in it as apposed to an actual lift kit. I will be cutting back the front wheel opening to match what I do to the rear. With the added suspension height and wider wheel openings do you think I will be able to run 31s without raising it more?

This is roughly what I have to cut out on the rear and the current tires are 225/75-R15.

 

http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-su...r-arms-tj.html

http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-adj...arms-1190.html

which is better and Why?

 

These are better. I wouldnt spend money on either of those companies.
http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Products/LCA-F.html

 

What is your guys' über professional opinion on the height of my lift? Also, does it look like my rear is sagging to you as well?

I'm guessing that I've got a 3-3.5" lift on there (no clue what brand). Springs are red, shocks are black.

 

measure from the bottom of the fender flare to the center of the hub, and subtract 17.5 in. from the front and 17 in. from the rear and that's how much lift you have.

 

Will do.

 

some rear quarter armor on that corner with some flares would look solid, what lift and tire specs in your build ?

did you want to bang with hammer after you cut teeth ? Smashing teeth into fender and bang and roll up inside vs just saw cut and sand edges ?

 

New FULL 4" Rear leafs are $200 pair on Evilbay.

I would start thinking about replacing the leafs after you do the shackle level which is $40 set

I'm guessing that I've got a 3-3.5" lift on there (no clue what brand). Springs are red, shocks are black.

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