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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
Important information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Mass
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Mass
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You have to drill a new hole to mount the original track bar. Since the jeep is higher, it pulls your track bar to the right about an inch to an inch and a half. I let my buddy drill the hole, which I didn't notice was not perfectly round, which led to the bolt loosening up and caused vibes. Some people weld washers in place to keep this from happening, but it's just smarter to buy the adjustable track bar. I lucked out. I found mine on craigslist for $60 from a guy who bought it, then someone wrecked his Cherokee before he installed it. Bonus for me. You can use it, but I would do it temporarily and just start looking for an adjustable.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
What people fail to consider is that tie rod ends are wear parts. Drilling a new hole to reuse the factory track bar with a lift is stupid. I don't care who does it and says they don't have problems. It is stupid.
That's a vital piece of your suspension, and you're using a wear part of at least 13 years (if an '01) to hold your freshly lifted rig. Buy a track bar for your comfort, for your budget, and for the safety of everyone else on the road.
That's a vital piece of your suspension, and you're using a wear part of at least 13 years (if an '01) to hold your freshly lifted rig. Buy a track bar for your comfort, for your budget, and for the safety of everyone else on the road.
What people fail to consider is that tie rod ends are wear parts. Drilling a new hole to reuse the factory track bar with a lift is stupid. I don't care who does it and says they don't have problems. It is stupid.
That's a vital piece of your suspension, and you're using a wear part of at least 13 years (if an '01) to hold your freshly lifted rig. Buy a track bar for your comfort, for your budget, and for the safety of everyone else on the road.
That's a vital piece of your suspension, and you're using a wear part of at least 13 years (if an '01) to hold your freshly lifted rig. Buy a track bar for your comfort, for your budget, and for the safety of everyone else on the road.
Beach Bum
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,123
Likes: 22
From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
^^!
I also strongly advise against drilling a separate hole for the trackbar for the above stated reasons.
If you must use the stock bar for a bit, use this relocation bracket;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/18305-02-Rear-Track-Bar-Relocation-Bracket-84-01-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-/400697403960?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d4b6d2a38&vxp=mtr
I also strongly advise against drilling a separate hole for the trackbar for the above stated reasons.
If you must use the stock bar for a bit, use this relocation bracket;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/18305-02-Rear-Track-Bar-Relocation-Bracket-84-01-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-/400697403960?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d4b6d2a38&vxp=mtr
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Mass
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What people fail to consider is that tie rod ends are wear parts. Drilling a new hole to reuse the factory track bar with a lift is stupid. I don't care who does it and says they don't have problems. It is stupid. That's a vital piece of your suspension, and you're using a wear part of at least 13 years (if an '01) to hold your freshly lifted rig. Buy a track bar for your comfort, for your budget, and for the safety of everyone else on the road.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,144
Likes: 3
From: central PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Being this is my first XJ, learned all this the hard way. And the mechanic that was helping me with my install was running an XJ on 6" with 35's, and constantly bragged about his mods. After dealing with his "help" on several occasions, I have learned to stay away from their shop.

talk to the guys on low lifts and big tires, they know their stuff
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Being this is my first XJ, learned all this the hard way. And the mechanic that was helping me with my install was running an XJ on 6" with 35's, and constantly bragged about his mods. After dealing with his "help" on several occasions, I have learned to stay away from their shop.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,603
Likes: 3
From: SLC, Utah
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
^*^^^ I wouldn't be surprised if that guy stacked blocks and was still short arm on factory arms
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Mass
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Oh, no...his setup is pretty sound...later found out it was bought, not built. I had to go back and double check any work he did and retorqued anything he may have touched. His jeep recently became the newest member at a local junkyard after he sold all the goods on it. He said, "The engine finally gave up on life." I looked at him and said, "I'm pretty sure you probably killed it."
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Oh, no...his setup is pretty sound...later found out it was bought, not built. I had to go back and double check any work he did and retorqued anything he may have touched. His jeep recently became the newest member at a local junkyard after he sold all the goods on it. He said, "The engine finally gave up on life." I looked at him and said, "I'm pretty sure you probably killed it."
...but let's get back on topic
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Mass
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hitting up the yard tomorrow to see if he missed any components...
Ok, back on topic...shims, are these acceptable or should I not waste my time/$? I'm pretty sure my driveline is off, but not by much. I got a angle finder so I can get under and check the angles, but someone told me that shimming is bad...thoughts?
Before someone hits me with, "just get a sye kit and such," I just bought my daughter's airline tickets for this summer's visit, as well as a few other unexpected bills that seem to come up every time I think I saved enough. So, this one is out of the question for now.
Ok, back on topic...shims, are these acceptable or should I not waste my time/$? I'm pretty sure my driveline is off, but not by much. I got a angle finder so I can get under and check the angles, but someone told me that shimming is bad...thoughts?
Before someone hits me with, "just get a sye kit and such," I just bought my daughter's airline tickets for this summer's visit, as well as a few other unexpected bills that seem to come up every time I think I saved enough. So, this one is out of the question for now.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Leaf spring sliders: Opinions?
I'd be interested to hear from any of you engineers or others who are familiar with the numbers and details of how they work compared to shackles.
Specifically, I'm interested in regards to my next XJ which will be lowered and go-fast. How would they affect stability and predictability?
I'd be interested to hear from any of you engineers or others who are familiar with the numbers and details of how they work compared to shackles.
Specifically, I'm interested in regards to my next XJ which will be lowered and go-fast. How would they affect stability and predictability?




