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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 11:50 AM
  #16201  
McCaffrey's Avatar
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From: California
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
Not unusual but not right.
To get rid of the 1/2" difference in my buddy's rig we removed 1 shim from one side and put it on the other side. I was arguing with him that it wouldn't work because it would try to rotate the axle in opposite directions. Well it worked and he's at 0 difference now. I'm concerned the rubber bushings are all now smashed to the side to compensate for the different rotation forces.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 11:53 AM
  #16202  
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From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
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The castor angles on your jeep are normally set about .25 more on the right side than on the left to account for road crown.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 12:00 PM
  #16203  
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
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Originally Posted by motoman677

I'm thinking on getting this kit and installing everything and change all the B grade things a litttle after. Or would that be horrible?
You were looking at rustys? First things first, make sure the shipping isn't crazy. They tend to gouge. Well me anyhow.

There are better options options out there. Cheaper shipping too.

4.5" lift right?
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 12:27 PM
  #16204  
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From: Western, Pa (5 mins away from ohio border)
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6 (4.0L)
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If I use an SYE and shims at 6.5 inches should I also use the tc drop kit?
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 12:28 PM
  #16205  
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From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
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Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
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Originally Posted by jeeper jason
If I use an SYE and shims at 6.5 inches should I also use the tc drop kit?
No.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 01:16 PM
  #16206  
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From: JOCO
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
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Originally Posted by jeeper jason
If I use an SYE and shims at 6.5 inches should I also use the tc drop kit?
SYE should solve the problem completely. Should...
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 01:28 PM
  #16207  
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From: NOLA
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Maybe this is a dumb question. If I get degree shims for my rear axle. How does leaf pin bolt stay aligned with the hole in the bracket on the axle?
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 01:30 PM
  #16208  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by kennethboyd
Maybe this is a dumb question. If I get degree shims for my rear axle. How does leaf pin bolt stay aligned with the hole in the bracket on the axle?
Most shims come with a new center pin.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 02:30 PM
  #16209  
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Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
Everyone should agree that the SYE is the better option. A t case drop has downsides but will work. Is it long term, No. You can do whatever you want but in our opinion it is a waste of $30.

You can use that $30 to buy your brake lines.
True but it comes with the kit, I am thinking on ordering new break lines and a SYE later down the road. Thank you so much for the help.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 02:33 PM
  #16210  
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From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
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Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
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Originally Posted by motoman677
True but it comes with the kit, I am thinking on ordering new break lines and a SYE later down the road. Thank you so much for the help.
I'd recommend brake lines be the first thing you get. I know at 4.5" my rear line is at full stretch everytime i hit a pot hole.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 02:35 PM
  #16211  
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Originally Posted by DieselD
You were looking at rustys? First things first, make sure the shipping isn't crazy. They tend to gouge. Well me anyhow.

There are better options options out there. Cheaper shipping too.

4.5" lift right?
Yea a 4.5, any recommendations?
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 02:37 PM
  #16212  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by motoman677

Yea a 4.5, any recommendations?
Zone and Iron Rock Offroad

And brake lines. They're kind of important.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 02:39 PM
  #16213  
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From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
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Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Zone and Iron Rock Offroad

And brake lines. They're kind of important.
Yep. And the only way i'm getting away with my stock line in the rear is the fact that i'm still running my maxed out JK rubi shocks. Keeps the axle from dropping low enough to damage the line.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 02:40 PM
  #16214  
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
The front drive shaft has a slip joint in it. When you order a new drive shaft from Tom Woods to go with your SYE you'll be getting a driveshaft that looks just like a stock front shaft. Just newer.



As has been said, your motor mounts will be toast, exhaust hangs a bit lower, you lose ground clearance and the main thing that bothers me is that your transfer case shifter linkage will be seriously out of whack.



I wouldn't but that's just my opinion. I prefer do things right the first time.

Any recommendations on a lift kit for my 2000 xj? I looked at rough country but they don't include shocks or much other for a 4.5 under 1000 but I looked at rustys and they include so much for 669.99 in there 4.5", but I don't really know if they include quality stuff. PLease let me know this is url to rustys 4.5 that I might get. http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-su...-pack-kit.html
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 02:40 PM
  #16215  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by xj_maniac_newb

Yep. And the only way i'm getting away with my stock line in the rear is the fact that i'm still running my maxed out JK rubi shocks. Keeps the axle from dropping low enough to damage the line.
Which, for the sake of clarification, is not ideal.
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