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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 12:14 PM
  #15046  
BobF's Avatar
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From: Reno
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by solicit
She's young and likes the look of the larger wheel and smaller sidewall. Me being a pro-touring/resto-mod guy, I truthfully like it too. Her young back can take the harsher ride around town.

What you said about the bearings makes sense. Now I'm bumming because that's the rim we set our hearts on.
Here's that rim (Procomp 7069) in 16x8 configuration with 265x75r16 tires.
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 06:56 PM
  #15047  
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From: michigan
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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So I have the rc 4.5" x series lift. The adjustable upper and lower control arms have rough country's flex joints. I've had the lift a year and they are shot. The pop and have tons of play in them. Rc wants you to take the controls and adjust the side preload on the joint every thousand miles?! That's every month and a half for me..

So I'm looking for new controls. Are there any companies out there that make adjustable control arms with flex joint ends that don't need the preload adjusted that often? How good are the RE superflex ends? Or am I better of just getting rubber bushing control arms? Any input would be greatly appreciated
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 10:33 PM
  #15048  
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From: Chickamauga Ga.
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by harley182
So I have the rc 4.5" x series lift. The adjustable upper and lower control arms have rough country's flex joints. I've had the lift a year and they are shot. The pop and have tons of play in them. Rc wants you to take the controls and adjust the side preload on the joint every thousand miles?! That's every month and a half for me..

So I'm looking for new controls. Are there any companies out there that make adjustable control arms with flex joint ends that don't need the preload adjusted that often? How good are the RE superflex ends? Or am I better of just getting rubber bushing control arms? Any input would be greatly appreciated
Rc is known for their shoddy flex joints, RE makes good joints, currie or teraflex probably make the best joints.
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 11:46 PM
  #15049  
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From: Michigan
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Hey everybody, I'm a college student can't afford a huge lift and completely terrible mileage. So I'm getting a 3inch lift and going to put 30s on my xj. I can't afford a sye, how much of a transfer case drop should I get? And do I need to extend brake lines in the back? ALSO The lift I want has blocks in tthe front, shocks and a short add a leaf, does the short add a leaf equal a bad and rough ride? I've heard it before, need some advice! Thanks.
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 11:55 PM
  #15050  
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From: Spokane WA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: ERH 4.0L Power Tech I-6 (HO)
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Originally Posted by Bretts2000XJ
Well I finally got passenger spring in.. Both new springs installed going to put shocks on and button front end up... I hope. Well don't everyone laugh at once 8 hours and I'm just getting front done. I had spring compressors that were big and clunky,lesson learned there.. But with minimal space and not a vast amount of tools this thing is whooping my ***.
...it took me over 4 hours to get the driver side coil and shock in ...on the bright side, at least I didn't break anything.

...I'll finish up tomorrow, including some before-and-after pix.

But for now, it's shower and a beer. Or two. Or ???
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 12:55 AM
  #15051  
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From: Southern California
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
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Originally Posted by JoeHulk
Hey everybody, I'm a college student can't afford a huge lift and completely terrible mileage. So I'm getting a 3inch lift and going to put 30s on my xj. I can't afford a sye, how much of a transfer case drop should I get? And do I need to extend brake lines in the back? ALSO The lift I want has blocks in tthe front, shocks and a short add a leaf, does the short add a leaf equal a bad and rough ride? I've heard it before, need some advice! Thanks.
I have that exact setup and my ride is pretty smooth. It vibrates a little on the free way, but that could just be from needing an alignment. I have had other people tell me it's very smooth too.
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 05:32 AM
  #15052  
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From: Chickamauga Ga.
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by JoeHulk
Hey everybody, I'm a college student can't afford a huge lift and completely terrible mileage. So I'm getting a 3inch lift and going to put 30s on my xj. I can't afford a sye, how much of a transfer case drop should I get? And do I need to extend brake lines in the back? ALSO The lift I want has blocks in tthe front, shocks and a short add a leaf, does the short add a leaf equal a bad and rough ride? I've heard it before, need some advice! Thanks.
Any add a leaf is gonna ride rough compared to new leaf packs. 3 inch coil spacers aren't advise able, but can be used. A pair of 3 inch coils is only 100 dollars. I'd cough up the extra dough if I was you. You may not even need an sye or t case drop at 3 inches of left, especially I you have a pre 96 xj. If you do wind up needing one, you will want to got with 1 inch.

Also, 30s will look a little small on a 3 inch lift. To may consider a 2 inch lift and 30s which will allow you to use your stock shocks, or a 3 inch lift and 31s.

Also, you could use a pair of 4 door jk rubicon shock to save a little money and get coils instead of spacers.
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 06:24 AM
  #15053  
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From: SouthEast PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by brdavis9
...it took me over 4 hours to get the driver side coil and shock in ...on the bright side, at least I didn't break anything.

...I'll finish up tomorrow, including some before-and-after pix.

But for now, it's shower and a beer. Or two. Or ???
Yea buddy fun isn't it. Yesterday I woke up went to the rear and sheared the bottom mount bolt...yea the big husky one lol. I was screwed. I drove 2 hours out to etters,pa with the front lifted 3 "s and the rear sagging with one rear shock off and the other swinging in the wind lol. Foxmxrcr helped me out at his shop and he welded heavy duty studs for the lower rear mounts and got my leafs done. Guy has a killer rig too. My jaw dropped when I pulled up.

Let me know how its going. I'm going to get tires mounted now ill post pics but here's one from ride home lol. I'm the blue one obviously

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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 07:03 AM
  #15054  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by bhennessee1

Any add a leaf is gonna ride rough compared to new leaf packs. 3 inch coil spacers aren't advise able, but can be used. A pair of 3 inch coils is only 100 dollars. I'd cough up the extra dough if I was you. You may not even need an sye or t case drop at 3 inches of left, especially I you have a pre 96 xj. If you do wind up needing one, you will want to got with 1 inch.

Also, 30s will look a little small on a 3 inch lift. To may consider a 2 inch lift and 30s which will allow you to use your stock shocks, or a 3 inch lift and 31s.

Also, you could use a pair of 4 door jk rubicon shock to save a little money and get coils instead of spacers.
I would also recommend 2" and 30s if you're on that tight of a budget. You won't need new sway bar links, shocks, brake lines, or an SYE.

Getting new coils would be preferable to coil spacers, and full leaf packs are much better than an AAL. You have to consider how old and worn out your Jeep is. A new 2" lift with all four springs will probably lift you 3-3.5" over your current sagging suspension, and it will still allow use of your current shocks until you can afford to replace them.

As for JK Wrangler shocks:
Any JK shocks work. 4dr shocks are tougher, and so are Rubicon. I got 4dr Rubicon shocks for $40. The ride was very stiff (which I like), and it prevented body roll in corners. [Inb4 "But you rolled it! Hurr durr"]

I used them on my 3.5" lift, and one end was too short. I don't recall for certain, but I think it was the rears. We had to compress the springs a bit to mount the shocks, and they were maxed out at ride height.
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 07:18 AM
  #15055  
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I'm going to do a 1" tcase drop. I don't have any real vibrations yet. Maybe slight at certain rpms but it couldn't hurt right lol.
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 07:19 AM
  #15056  
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From: Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0 stroked to 4.6, Thanks to Teasdale'sMachine!
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Originally Posted by Bretts2000XJ
I'm going to do a 1" tcase drop. I don't have any real vibrations yet. Maybe slight at certain rpms but it couldn't hurt right lol.
If you need the spacers, I've got a couple different sets you can have.
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 07:24 AM
  #15057  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Originally Posted by Bretts2000XJ
I'm going to do a 1" tcase drop. I don't have any real vibrations yet. Maybe slight at certain rpms but it couldn't hurt right lol.
Actually, it puts more stress on your motor mounts and takes away ground clearance. A TC drop isn't a proper fix; it just moves the problem.
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 07:41 AM
  #15058  
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Originally Posted by ehracing67

If you need the spacers, I've got a couple different sets you can have.
Yes yes I do. Thanks
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 07:42 AM
  #15059  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Actually, it puts more stress on your motor mounts and takes away ground clearance. A TC drop isn't a proper fix; it just moves the problem.
A sye is the way right?
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 07:44 AM
  #15060  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by Bretts2000XJ

A sye is the way right?
Yessir. If you aren't having problems, though, I wouldn't worry about it.
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