I am having trouble envisioning this, and why you would need a relay. That circuit is a small amp circuit, for the instrument panel and warning check lights. I was thinking of pulling another bus bar, this one coming from Pin2 of the push button. It would energize the test circuits and ignition, just the same as the keyed ignition does.

Your setup seems alien to me, as the relay needs to be energized across Pin85 &86 in order to create the magnetic field to close the contact between Pin30 &87. The switch is on either Pin85 or Pin86, the opposite to ground, Pin30 is the relay source power, and Pin87 is the relay output power. That's my understanding. Help me understand your setup better?

 

 

Ahh I understand. It's a little different fromwhat I expected. I was not aware that the coolant/brake/Park brake were 12v constant, as they are wired directly to the stock switch. In my mind they shouldn't be constant, unless there is some type of disconnect within the stock system. Will look into that and thanks for that info!

 

 

At current I am not intending to attach those wires at all, I will have them tagged for reinstall once I have my new dash fabbed up. I have already been making a guage-cluster connector run sheet, testing pin to pin, for a pin-out for new cluster. Already have those circuits identified, working on the remainder pins. Once I have identified all the pins, I can connect the associated wires to their respected guages. The test circuits, as far as I am able to confirm, are not necessary for ignition or run, merely for seeing that the cluster is operational. This is borderline to my new dash thread you can visit from my profile

***EDIT***
Just realized your mistake. If you had connected those to (on my diagram) Pin2 of the push button switch. It will only be momentary (as stock circuit) and as soon as pushbutton was released, the circuit would be open, thus de-energizing those lights.

 

Ugh another weekend passes and no progress. Nobody carries covered bus bars, and wire has been a nightmare as well. I don't need 25', 40', or any larger footage. Tonight I ordered the bus bars and wire from Amazon. Maybe next weekend?

 

Today's update is......

SUCCESS! However, pics will have to wait till tomorrow, and video is gonna suck cuz I ran outta memory on my phone part way through. Need to get a GoPro!

Observations: the circuits mostly worked as intended. I could not get the brake/parking brake/guage check circuit to work, will try it as Abaka suggested, but with my entire circuit complete, I am not sure how to integrate. The follow-on to that is, do I *really* need these circuits?

I have two systems not working, but I'm not sure they were working before. This would be the brake lights and reverse lights. I have running lights and blinkers at the rear. Something I shouldn't have to worry to much about right now, but in a paycheck or two will have to fix. The reverse circuit is unknown to me, but the brake circuit should be simple to check/modify/fix.

Turbo_X_J, there is no way you could have seen what I found. So thankfully, the Jeep was never in danger of overnight fires. None of the terminals were corroded at all, however, the brown terminal had definitely gotten hot. Very hot. Most of the socket for the brown (accessory) terminal was melted, straight through the blue casing and even causing deformation to the black casing. I would say I got luck while driving it. I feel tons better about my solution, and can't wait to share!

Pics tomorrow, maybe as a step-by-step instruction. Again, it was a very fun and rewarding experience, and can't wait to share with pics! Maybe I can edit some of the video I did take and still use it all.

 

If there is a West Marine close to you I would suggest checking out their electrical isle. All gauges of good wire and great BlueSeas dealeos to use. Not too cheap but very high quality.

 

I have actually done some research into blueseas and intend on getting products from them at a later date. Thanks for the tip and good advice to others!

 

 

The warning only lets you know once you've lost pressure, which you can already tell by not being able to stop.

 

Old thread but my ignition switch crapped out, I drive a 95 2 door sport 4.0 with manual trans, i have been researching and figuring out what wires are what, on mine I have two red supply wires, and 5 other connections wires, i have heard that whole switch does not handle anything over 5 amps, is this accurate ? now the second question i have is can i run both supply wires together to one post on my main switch that energizes the pannel ?