Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 08:32 AM
  #31  
mcguyver_xj's Avatar
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From: West Springfield, MA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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just because a long arm kit doesnt have a crossmember doesnt make it suck...take a look at rc and rustys and a couple other brands you have to completely disassemble your xmember and long arm mounts to do anything to your drivetrain...clayton is smart as their beef xmember is three piece and rk and synergy and the new rustys 4-link just use brackets so you dont have to remove to service drivetrain common sense works wonders work smart not hard and please stop the "i run iro and dont have issues" simply put your not doing anything that will show its weakness
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 08:55 AM
  #32  
xjheep92's Avatar
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From: mass
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output
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Not sure which style "long arms" you have. Are they radius arms( uppers attached to lowers or a 4 link of some kind ? Got any pics ?

If the lowers are long arms why not just make a frame mount for a upper control arm? After installing my RK 3 link I realized it would have been pretty simple to make my own brackets

*edit

After looking at Teleflex's weird short upper long lower arms set up I get it.

I would not waste money buying any other kind of Kit. Do yourself a favor. Put your money towards frame stiffeners and an upper link. You will save a ton and have a very solid xj

Last edited by xjheep92; Feb 17, 2014 at 09:11 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 08:56 AM
  #33  
xjheep92's Avatar
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From: mass
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output
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I also got to agree don't go with iro, it's a step in the wrong direction from where your at
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 11:01 AM
  #34  
superbee1970440's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by AlphaQup
I run the iron rock long arms. I've put about 1000 miles on them. Took it to king of the hammers and drove it pretty gently through the sand. Went under the xj today to add a bit more caster and noticed that the adjuster was taco'ed by way of hitting the center section of the dana 30. Loosened the nuts on the adjuster and 4 of 5 were loose (all torqued to specs 1000 miles ago). Wasn't able to adjust it much due to the bent adjuster. Torqued it all back down except for one of the smaller nuts stripped before getting to the required torque. Now imagine if I had larger than stock tires or lockers?
sucks to be in the 1/2 percent, i guess.

Sounds to me like the bolts weren't tightened correctly in the first place. I've checked mine several times since the install and none have ever been even slightly loose.

By the way, there's only 4 nuts on the adjuster, unless you consider the main bolt.
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 01:01 PM
  #35  
XJmike0122's Avatar
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From: Eaton Co
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by mcguyver_xj
your logic is irrational being overbuilt is good and will last you have a jeep and wheel it i presume how can something be "overbuilt"
I'm not saying overbuilt is a bad thing. I just think the Claton is more beefy then I need. The RK would work fine and leave me some cash for a locker. I guess budget has some play in my choice also.
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 01:27 PM
  #36  
Lowrange2's Avatar
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Joined: May 2008
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by superbee1970440
sucks to be in the 1/2 percent, i guess.

Sounds to me like the bolts weren't tightened correctly in the first place. I've checked mine several times since the install and none have ever been even slightly loose.

By the way, there's only 4 nuts on the adjuster, unless you consider the main bolt.
I'll never understand why some people make such an effort to discredit common sense.

I just don't get it.

Oh well, carry on.
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 02:28 PM
  #37  
Atmos's Avatar
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From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by mcguyver_xj
just because a long arm kit doesnt have a crossmember doesnt make it suck...
the reason I like a nice crossmember is because A, tcase protection and protection against rocks in general. my stock x-member didn't look to great in the end. and B, instead of mounting two link mounts independently on a frame rail that is prone to twisting, your links are now mounted to a bar that ties both of your frame rails together and hopefully eliminates some of the movement.

so even if you do have to drop the whole suspension to service anything, I think that mounting to the x-member is worth it.

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